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Old 11-21-2018, 07:56 PM   #11
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Posts: 10
For anyone that may be interested in my vermicomposting toilet pre plan.

I will start with a large cooler. It gets a false bottom installed for drainage. It has holes through it with plastic screen glued over this bottom piece. This will be to keep the compost from becoming to water logged.

A ventilation system that blows air into a cut hole in the cooler.
- a small fan with on/ off switch
- fan housing and tubing to a cooler hole I cut.
-inside small pipe to direct air flow to both the top area and the below drainage space.
- an air vent hole at a high point in the cooler wall, on the back, routed to a small

exterior bus wall hole.

Divider
The cooler Interior will be divided in half with a ridged plastic wall.
- this wall will have some holes cut through it.
-The wall also has a pull up removable sliding section that keeps the holes closed up most of the time.
(this type of wall set up is to help the worms self separate over to the other half when the first half is full).

(( please read more about vericomposting from another source if further questions on how this self separating works))

Two toilet seats
- Seats have air tight seal (to keep smells down)
- the 2nd seat has a urine diverting set up with it
- the diverting set up can be easily taken out and put in place with the other toilet seat(swapped over)
- urine goes into a tube to an under the bus jug / small tank

Cover material container
Some type of way to hold a large amount of saw dust or shreded paper or shreded dry leaves or your choice of composting cover material.

A water jug
For quick Rinsing of the urine system and to wet down compost side when it is getting to dry

: note- ventilation system cooling-
I’d like to figure out a way to include an evaporation cooler into the air inlet piping. Aka: swamp cooler
This will hopefully keep the worms from dying when temps are above the worms limits.

Hopping this is clear enough for others to understand. ( I dis-like all typing/ writing)
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Old 11-29-2018, 01:47 AM   #12
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: WI
Posts: 49
Year: 1995
Chassis: International 3600
Engine: T444E
This is an awesome idea. One thought I had is, could you make it so you could rotate the cooler when one half is full and finished composting? Then you wouldn't need two toilet seats or to move the urine diverter.
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Old 11-30-2018, 07:43 PM   #13
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Posts: 10
Simon S.

Thanks, Iím glad you like the idea. Yes, one seat would be simpler. What trips me up is trying to include a urine diverter and a worm seat side all in one. I have very limited knowledge of urine diverters at this time.

Iíll probably start out with something less complicated in order to get some experience vermicomposting. We all know how plans that we think are well thought out end up turning out a bit less than hoped for.
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Old 12-02-2018, 01:44 PM   #14
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Join Date: Dec 2018
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Hi, I'm completely new to skoolie.net but I do have a lotta experience with vermicomposting. And your post was the first one to catch my eye.

I think it's an awesome idea, and figured I'd offer my experience so far. Feel free to call me captain obvious too.

The red wiggler composting worms (eisenia fetida) are pretty hearty. They can withstand a massive temperature range, as long as they aren't frozen solid or cooked. Same with moisture--often I find worms in the drainage system (for me it's rocks beneath landscaping fabric). If you're comfortable in your bus, they're probably comfortable too.

Another bit of anecdotal kinda stuff is anything wood takes forever to breakdown. When I first started I used hay and sawdust as the "living material" for the worms; 3 bins, one all hay, one all sawdust, one a mixture. The sawdust took an extra 8 months to fully break down compared to the hay. That was fine for me, I planned on using it to start seedlings the following year, on a bus I could see that becoming a bit of a storage issue.


Another thing to think about is how much poop the worms can process in a day. I've never added manure to my bins, but the worm "smoothies" I add, (about 48 ounces) take between 3 days and a week to disappear depending on the ingredients (squash rinds, bean pods, old broccoli and tomato stalks, all take much longer than leafy greens, rotten fruit), and depending on the maturity of the bin (newer bins seem to take a little longer to get rolling).

The "rule of thumb" is worms can process their body weight in added material in a day. I can't give you any insight into whether that is true or not, I've never weighed my worms.

And lastly, smell can occasionally become an issue. From what I can tell it's mostly from adding new food scraps that are a little too far gone by, and not from the living material the worms are in going anaerobic. I've been experimenting now with adding crushed charcoal to the bins as I add those worm smoothies. That would also help bring the bin to a more neutral pH.

Good luck! And I look forward to hearing your experience
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