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Old 05-24-2016, 12:01 PM   #31
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I find it interesting that there are a considerable number of people that seem to be vocally upset at the idea of my cheapo style of conversion. I reiterate that I can not legally make this into an RV. It's titled and insured as a van. Oregon will not insure a school bus conversion unless it was through a professional coach builder. This is my only option to maintain insurance. Yeah it's a little on the screwed side so I have to think differently, mostly modular instead of built in. I'm not interested in a bus as a tiny house that doesn't move. Since I can't have a bus/RV conversion this maxi-van will have to do. I figure I can legally modify this bus to the same extend as a normal conversion van. I'm going for insulation naturally. No shag carpet on the ceilings, walls or floors though.
If they don't like it they can pound sand... We're doing a cheapo conversion too. The whole point of our build is to do it as cheaply as possible because we're trying to pay our daughters tuition as we build and live in our bus.
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Old 05-24-2016, 01:13 PM   #32
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I've got no problem with people doing things their own way... The only issue I see with barrels is the inherent wasted space a cylinder creates. FWIW I was originally leaning towards using the exact same kind of barrels you are.
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Old 05-24-2016, 01:44 PM   #33
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Actually I leave the barrels standing up because they're pretty darn hard to move when they're full. I have L-track covering my floors and one track above the windows. I put, for lack of a better word, cleats on the floor to prevent the base of the barrels from sliding. In addition the top of each barrel is strapped to the wall to prevent tipping. So far they haven't moved at all, but I can't say the same for the wood stove last trip. I did forget to strap the stove down last time I went to town. It just walked itself out into the bowling alley area.
I've considered other configurations with the barrels, such as mounting them sideways in a stacked configuration with the aid of a little framing. It seems to take up about the same amount of floor space so I'm not convinced I want to make that effort to something that may not work. My thoughts are barrels can leak sideways.
I seem to have water accidents inside this bus fairly frequently anyway, which isn't all bad. The floor is pretty darn clean after frequent moppings for one. Interestingly the L-track actually channels water spills from the floor to whatever end of the bus is lower. Kind of like 8 little gutters on the floor.
The barrels work quite well for me. I do use h2o2 to prevent any algae growth. Algae being a concern specifically because this is mountain spring water and it's going to have algae in it.
These food grade plastic barrels can freeze solid while full of water. I specifically filled four barrels last year as a test. Two were outside directly in the weather and two were in the back of a 2 1/2 ton truck. None were damaged which surprised me. Considering they were like $10 used food grade barrels, I'm impressed. I've even dropped a full barrel while moving it and it didn't break. I know it's not an RV tank, but this isn't an RV.

I find it interesting that there are a considerable number of people that seem to be vocally upset at the idea of my cheapo style of conversion. I reiterate that I can not legally make this into an RV. It's titled and insured as a van. Oregon will not insure a school bus conversion unless it was through a professional coach builder. This is my only option to maintain insurance. Yeah it's a little on the screwed side so I have to think differently, mostly modular instead of built in. I'm not interested in a bus as a tiny house that doesn't move. Since I can't have a bus/RV conversion this maxi-van will have to do. I figure I can legally modify this bus to the same extend as a normal conversion van. I'm going for insulation naturally. No shag carpet on the ceilings, walls or floors though.
I'm all for the cheapie quick stuff, too! Well, except for old zephod's nightmare build.
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Old 05-24-2016, 01:44 PM   #34
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I've got no problem with people doing things their own way... The only issue I see with barrels is the inherent wasted space a cylinder creates. FWIW I was originally leaning towards using the exact same kind of barrels you are.
Check out One Nation Under Goat's barrels. SWEET setup for sure. Looks great.
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Old 05-24-2016, 03:05 PM   #35
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I looked that build up... very very nice mounting.
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Old 05-24-2016, 03:13 PM   #36
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Check out One Nation Under Goat's barrels. SWEET setup for sure. Looks great.
Hello. Where can i find? Check out One Nation Under Goat's barrels.
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Old 05-24-2016, 03:15 PM   #37
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One Nation under goat's build:

http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/bu...ats-11237.html

the barrels/tanks are near the end of the thread.
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Old 05-24-2016, 03:25 PM   #38
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Hello. Where can i find? Check out One Nation Under Goat's barrels.
http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/bu...-11237-19.html







I have some pics I took when they were in town. I'll look for them later. Their tank setup was nice! And cheap!
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Old 05-24-2016, 05:51 PM   #39
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That is such a clever way to use plate to form an arch. Never seen it that way. Without that support from above, given by the arch shape, a barrel type container supported by some type of straps tends to swing a bit.
I can't hang the 55s under my skirt. Well, not if I expect them to retain water. 35 gallon fresh tanks hanging under seem kind of small, but a 35 gallon black tank does have some strong appeal even for a minimalist build like mine.
Sometimes it's a problem. Bad timing kind of problem.
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Old 05-25-2016, 12:03 AM   #40
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It is mostly up to what you have to work with it put mine just past the wheel well told the back and place a bed over it with a service door to access the water pump also put a t and a valve on the suction side to use a funnel to add rv anti freeze in the winter
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