12v Refrigerators

[JDOnTheGo]

Originally Posted by Sasquatters

Ok, I will do that with everything.

Excellent! Remember that some items (like computers) draw more power when battery is low than they do when near full. Also, think about things like water pump, smoke detector, CO detector, what kind/number of lights you plan to install, fans, furnace, etc...

[CaptSquid]

Originally Posted by Sasquatters

We have been looking for 12v options since it seems like our current fridge is not going to work out for our solar setup. We would prefer something without a handle that sticks out like most of the Dometic models.

We have found several refrigerators that run on 12v and look nice, but we are unsure if they have a lock so that the door does not open while driving. Does anyone know of any 12v manufactures other than Dometic and Norcold? We are looking for something in white that is 59-61" tall, 24"wide, and no more than 26" deep.

To lock the doors while traveling, use the old hook-n-eye latch. That, or do what I did while driving - use a strap. Simple enough to keep the door closed and keep the contents inside.

[Sasquatters]

Originally Posted by CaptSquid

To lock the doors while traveling, use the old hook-n-eye latch. That, or do what I did while driving - use a strap. Simple enough to keep the door closed and keep the contents inside.

I do not want to drill into the side of the fridge. I was considering a strap though.

[joeblack5]

JD just to clarify 64 watthour *24 hours is about 1.5 kWh per day? At the fridge or before the inverter?
Later j

[JDOnTheGo]

Originally Posted by joeblack5

JD just to clarify 64 watthour *24 hours is about 1.5 kWh per day? At the fridge or before the inverter?
Later j

Right. The recorded number was 84kW consumed over 1304 hours (54.3 days). This was measured at the fridge - AFTER the inverter. A very good point Johan! More power than stated was actually consumed due to conversion losses.

[JDOnTheGo]

To lock my refrigerator doors and drawers (and also shower door & medicine cabinet doors), I use these child locks. I can't say that they are the perfect solution but they do work and are easy to use. The negative is that they are sometimes a bit in the way. Some day, I hope to stumble on a really great solution.

[Sasquatters]

Originally Posted by JDOnTheGo

To lock my refrigerator doors and drawers (and also shower door & medicine cabinet doors), I use these child locks. I can't say that they are the perfect solution but they do work and are easy to use. The negative is that they are sometimes a bit in the way. Some day, I hope to stumble on a really great solution.

Those look pretty good. I love how hard it has stumped this baby.

Originally Posted by PNW_Steve

Do you have the Energy Commander 60 Amp controller? if so, you can run up to 2800 watts. Depends on battery bank voltage.

Let's back up a bit now, what is your daily power requirement?

That is the first question that needs to be answered in the design process.

I should have specified... on 12v. I want a 12v system so that when we are driving the alternator can charge the batteries. I do not want to have to add another alternator. Trying to stay away from engine work since the bus only has 70,000 miles.

[PNW_Steve]

Victron and others do make 12 volt to 24 volt chargers.

I will be installing one of the Victron chargers in my bus. Much easier and less expensive than adding a second alternator.

[Sasquatters]

The problem is that I already have a $500 charge controller that Renogy will not take back.

[PNW_Steve]

Originally Posted by Sasquatters

The problem is that I already have a $500 charge controller that Renogy will not take back.

The Renogy controller will work fine on a 24 volt system.

[Sasquatters]

Yes, but I need a 12v system, and it does not support over 800w (according to Renogy) on a 12v system.

[PNW_Steve]

Originally Posted by Sasquatters

Yes, but I need a 12v system, and it does not support over 800w (according to Renogy) on a 12v system.

The same will be true of any 60 amp MPPT controller.

If you insist on 1000+ watts on a 12v system (not recommended) you will either need a higher capacity charge controller (100A - $800-$1000) or multiple charge controllers. Unfortunately the Renogy Commander dous not support ganging multiple controllers.

Bottom line: If you insist on a 12v battery bank, you are going to have to buy a different charge controller.

You would save $ on your charge controller, wire and batteries if you go with a 24v system.

Good luck.


BTW: the charger that I mentioned earlier that will charge a 24v battery from your 12v alternator only costs about $160.

[Sasquatters]

Originally Posted by PNW_Steve

The same will be true of any 60 amp MPPT controller.

BTW: the charger that I mentioned earlier that will charge a 24v battery from your 12v alternator only costs about $160.

Can you give more information on this? I am still learning so it is all a bit confusing. I am about to finish my Bachelors in geo-environmental and there wasn't a single class on solar, geothermal, or the like.



The only reason I insist on 12v is so that we do not have to add another alternator, plus there's not much space for one anyway. We already have 1020w in panels that were custom fit to a very expensive rooftop deck. There's no changing that now.





Thanks

[Booyah45828]

You're not adding another alternator. You're adding a seperate charger that will take the 12v from your current alternator and boost it to 24v to charge your house batteries.

For 160 bucks, you can buy the 12 to 24 charger, utilize the charge controller you have, the alternator you have, and have a 24v house system.

Or you can try and sell your current charge controller at a loss, buy a larger charge controller($$$$$), and forget about the 12-24 battery charger.

Go with the first option like PNW_Steve suggested.

[PNW_Steve]

Here is the 12-24 charger: https://www.invertersupply.com/index...oducts_id=1190

[Ross]

Check out truckfridge.com . Flange-mounted, latched doors, various sizes, 12VDC operation. They use the Danfoss 12VDC compressor and are not cheap, but are made for mobile installations. Also, Unique makes 12VDC refers. You can find them at Bensdiscountsupply.com .

[Andrewfwills]

Overall seems the marine refrigerators for boats are very energy efficient. A little more expensive but may be worth it for certain applications.

[NotAClue]

Has anyone thought of using regular freezer with temperature add on for a refrigerator? Far better insulated, more efficient, cold does not fall out of chest freezer. I already bought the parts on Amazon, buying freezer next week. This is very common as a "kegger" refrigerator.

[RogueGypsy]

Id go for the Wynter fridge. Worth the price...

[Tango]

I am installing a Whynter dual zone (fridge/freezer) but only after talking to several blue water sailors who have been running them. They LOVE'em. Very impressive performance. Will freeze stuff solid in 30 minutes from start-up and keep it there with a very low draw.


I was sold.