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08-19-2018, 03:47 PM
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#1
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Iowa
Posts: 447
Year: 1989
Chassis: International
Engine: 9.L
Rated Cap: 64
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Ducted AC
Would it be possible to run duct work in the ceiling of a skoolie? I want to go with just 1-AC unit if possible. Doing solar so need some room up there..Also, i think its possible to run a rooftop ac unit off a genny while driving..am i correct in this?
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08-19-2018, 04:32 PM
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#2
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Billings, MT
Posts: 1,269
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: HDX
Engine: Cat C7
Rated Cap: 84 passenger
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I'd suggest running the ductwork above the windows. Overhead room is precious on these beasties and very few people walk along the edges.
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08-19-2018, 05:58 PM
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#3
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Virginia
Posts: 2,325
Year: 1971
Coachwork: Wayne
Chassis: International Loadstar 1700
Engine: 345 international V-8
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On a full size bus one a/c unit is not going to be enough, not sure what size your bus is. Rv's can and do run the rooftop a/c off the genny while driving, so see no reason you can not do the same.
I have two 13,500 btu rooftop units on my 34ft bus. In the shade one will do just fine but out in the sun it needs both.
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08-19-2018, 07:28 PM
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#4
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Vacaville, Ca
Posts: 1,634
Year: 1988
Coachwork: Crown / Pusher
Engine: 8.3 Cummins
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Thats what I'm doing, I installed 2 ac units & started building ducts down each side of the bus about 2 ft off center of the ceiling, My plan is while sleeping if I need ac run the fwd unit & if I'm up front say watching tv,reading, run the back unit.I'm also making the ducts deep enough to where i'll have 1 in wire chases inside the ducts. I'm also thinking of running the ducts to the drivers compartment & have a flapper valve where I can close the ducts off & pipe cool air to the drivers compartment from the fwd unit, my neighbor keeps telling me it would be cheaper to put in dash air but I'm not so sure.
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08-19-2018, 07:34 PM
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#5
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Iowa
Posts: 447
Year: 1989
Chassis: International
Engine: 9.L
Rated Cap: 64
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Is the ductwork like dryer vent hose?
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08-19-2018, 07:59 PM
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#6
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Vacaville, Ca
Posts: 1,634
Year: 1988
Coachwork: Crown / Pusher
Engine: 8.3 Cummins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeypj
Is the ductwork like dryer vent hose?
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No I'm making it out of wood
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08-19-2018, 09:04 PM
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#7
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Virginia
Posts: 2,325
Year: 1971
Coachwork: Wayne
Chassis: International Loadstar 1700
Engine: 345 international V-8
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Although dryer vent hose might work, I think it will be more noise then something smooth .
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08-20-2018, 06:07 AM
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#8
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: The West
Posts: 1,210
Year: 1998
Coachwork: MCI
Chassis: 102 EL3
Engine: DD 60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeypj
Would it be possible to run duct work in the ceiling of a skoolie? I want to go with just 1-AC unit if possible. Doing solar so need some room up there..Also, i think its possible to run a rooftop ac unit off a genny while driving..am i correct in this?
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Yes and yes.
As noted, however; ceiling height is the issue. My A/C ducting is not complete so completely unproven. That said, I've constructed a 3/4" tall space between the 'top' of the ceiling panels and 'bottom' of the roof insulation. It is very wide with cold air using half of the ceiling width and return air the other half. My hope is that the cold and return air will flow sufficiently well thru this space. The duct 'volume' math works out ok but that is no guarantee. In all, it's cost me about 1" of headroom.
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08-20-2018, 06:34 AM
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#9
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeypj
Would it be possible to run duct work in the ceiling of a skoolie? I want to go with just 1-AC unit if possible. Doing solar so need some room up there..Also, i think its possible to run a rooftop ac unit off a genny while driving..am i correct in this?
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Rooftop units are pretty darn inefficient. With a generator they're fine but with solar you'll want something more efficient.
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08-20-2018, 08:17 AM
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#10
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Virginia
Posts: 2,325
Year: 1971
Coachwork: Wayne
Chassis: International Loadstar 1700
Engine: 345 international V-8
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Not sure he meant running the a/c off solar, just wants room for solar. At least think that is what he means.
I would be curious if anyone has measured wattage on a rooftop and measured wattage on a mini split of the same btu rating to see how they compare?
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08-20-2018, 08:23 AM
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#11
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronnie
Not sure he meant running the a/c off solar, just wants room for solar. At least think that is what he means.
I would be curious if anyone has measured wattage on a rooftop and measured wattage on a mini split of the same btu rating to see how they compare?
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Yeah, mini splits use about 1/3-1/2 the power IIRC. Chris or someone else will know.
Mini Split A/C in an RV | Beginning from this Morning
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08-20-2018, 09:03 AM
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#12
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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I'm no A/C expert, but wood sounds like a poor choice for ducting air unless it is somehow absolutely sealed against moisture. Vents are subject to quite a bit of condensation. Even with thorough insulation, mine routinely condense and drip.
Just a thought.
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08-20-2018, 10:23 AM
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#13
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Vacaville, Ca
Posts: 1,634
Year: 1988
Coachwork: Crown / Pusher
Engine: 8.3 Cummins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango
I'm no A/C expert, but wood sounds like a poor choice for ducting air unless it is somehow absolutely sealed against moisture. Vents are subject to quite a bit of condensation. Even with thorough insulation, mine routinely condense and drip.
Just a thought.
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My plan is to line it with 1/4 insulation,,,Should I rethink it??? S&S RV only use foam insulation
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08-20-2018, 11:10 AM
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#14
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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Insulation inside or out? Inside will collect moisture. But either way, wood will also collect moisture from the air and I would expect a lot of mold issues. Commercial & residential ducting is either metal inside with insulation outside or semi-soft insulation ducting that is foil faced (waterproof) both sides.
Getting metal ductwork fabbed is cheap and can be made to almost any size/configuration but proper insulation is a must.
Side note:
I have probably a half mile of ducting here at my studio and have noticed that our adjustable metal exhaust grates condense and drip but the plastic ones do not.
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08-20-2018, 08:12 PM
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#15
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Iowa
Posts: 447
Year: 1989
Chassis: International
Engine: 9.L
Rated Cap: 64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDOnTheGo
Yes and yes.
As noted, however; ceiling height is the issue. My A/C ducting is not complete so completely unproven. That said, I've constructed a 3/4" tall space between the 'top' of the ceiling panels and 'bottom' of the roof insulation. It is very wide with cold air using half of the ceiling width and return air the other half. My hope is that the cold and return air will flow sufficiently well thru this space. The duct 'volume' math works out ok but that is no guarantee. In all, it's cost me about 1" of headroom.
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Mine is 6'5". i could drop the ceiling 3" and still have plenty of room..lol..im 5'7
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08-20-2018, 08:16 PM
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#16
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Iowa
Posts: 447
Year: 1989
Chassis: International
Engine: 9.L
Rated Cap: 64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronnie
Not sure he meant running the a/c off solar, just wants room for solar. At least think that is what he means.
I would be curious if anyone has measured wattage on a rooftop and measured wattage on a mini split of the same btu rating to see how they compare?
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Not even going to try AC of solar..Not with AGM batteries and 400W of panels. Strictly genney only..
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08-20-2018, 08:45 PM
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#17
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Virginia
Posts: 2,325
Year: 1971
Coachwork: Wayne
Chassis: International Loadstar 1700
Engine: 345 international V-8
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That's what I have, 400 watts of solar, and AGM batteries.
My two rooftops are not ducted. I find that I can run one and close all the air flaps except the rear one, in order to push the air all the way to the back of the bus. Just a thought that might save ducting. I do not have anything that would obstruct the air movement. If you do well then back to ducting.
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08-21-2018, 02:05 PM
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#18
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Iowa
Posts: 447
Year: 1989
Chassis: International
Engine: 9.L
Rated Cap: 64
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Is anything smaller than a 13500 made for a rooftop unit?
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08-21-2018, 02:16 PM
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#19
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Eastern WA
Posts: 6,401
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American RE (A3RE)
Engine: Cummins ISC (8.3)
Rated Cap: 72
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08-21-2018, 02:36 PM
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#20
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeypj
Is anything smaller than a 13500 made for a rooftop unit?
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Are you looking for smaller size or less BTU? There's not a whole lot of difference in price between a 9200 and a 15000 in the same size package,
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