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Old 11-16-2016, 03:19 AM   #21
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Now if we could use that technology in highway bridges... No more ice on bridges!

Wish I knew how to build ****
Been there done that. These guys just got a few contracts to try this system out. Its very cool how it can change the lines on the road. For instance it can all ow a officer in a accident situation to re rote the road or even put up a stop sign or write info for drivers on the road. Imagine a helicopter landing for an accident in bad weather on a highway. they just give him a heliport pad in led. Plus it melts snow.

Solar-powered 'smart' roads could zap snow, ice - CNN.com
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Old 11-19-2016, 09:06 AM   #22
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Question

I have a Block heater and i read that they keep your water temp at abut 120-130 F. How hot does the fluid need to be to heat a floor. I understand this is subjective. I see some that are 750 Watts . Why not add another one? I would use the 12 volt continuous duty water pump that is factory. I would wire the pump so it would not be needing the key on and getting power from an inverter that gets its ac power from my Ac system.

Comments please.

Google is my friend:

Typically, radiant heating systems warm floors to temperatures of 75 to 80 degrees F.
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Old 11-19-2016, 10:36 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by Versatile View Post
I have a Block heater and i read that they keep your water temp at abut 120-130 F. How hot does the fluid need to be to heat a floor. I understand this is subjective. I see some that are 750 Watts . Why not add another one? I would use the 12 volt continuous duty water pump that is factory. I would wire the pump so it would not be needing the key on and getting power from an inverter that gets its ac power from my Ac system.

Comments please.

Google is my friend:

Typically, radiant heating systems warm floors to temperatures of 75 to 80 degrees F.
If the primary electric is going to be 120 or 240 volt AC, then it would be cheaper and more efficient to just use a residential water heater.
Pumping the warm water thru the heating system.
Cost of an invert would likely go a long way towards purchase of a water heater an pump.
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Old 11-19-2016, 10:50 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by DoubleO7 View Post
If the primary electric is going to be 120 or 240 volt AC, then it would be cheaper and more efficient to just use a residential water heater.
Pumping the warm water thru the heating system.
Cost of an invert would likely go a long way towards purchase of a water heater an pump.
Especially if you find someone scrapping a mobile home nearby...
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Old 11-19-2016, 11:05 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by Dapplecreek View Post
Especially if you find someone scrapping a mobile home nearby...
or a used WH from a travel trailer or RV.

or....a spa heater, which is merely an "inline" electric residential WH without a storage tank. Since you need a circulating pump, you really do not need the storage tank (and weight) of hot water.
Unless you want heat "right now" versus in a few hours.
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Old 04-12-2017, 09:57 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by somewhereinusa View Post
I have in floor hot water radiant heat. Heat source is engine while running and Espar boiler when not running. There are pictures and some explanations throughout my build and there are some pictures on my web site. Also supplies domestic hot water.

From build site starting about here
http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/so...sa-6318-4.html

Some pictures from my web site here. I see I haven't updated lately.
Heat
Diagram here.
Heat 2

Dick
Note to self: look at build thread.
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Old 04-12-2017, 10:04 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by Tootalltechie View Post
Has anyone ever wrapped copper tubing around the woodstove pipe? Then run water through it to apply heating throughout the bus? Just a thought
Gordon
I'm thinking of "gluing" the under seat heat exchanger to the back of the firebox or under the firebox. Enclose the bottom and it should get toasty warm for the exchanger. Definitely going to need a pressure relief valve if I "glue" it to the firebox if the pump ever dies.
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Old 05-12-2017, 09:15 PM   #28
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Ok I've been reading a lot and a lot of people seem pretty fond of radiant floor heat via hot water. I gotta ask: what about moisture? I thought keeping extra moisture out of your bus was important. I figured the pipes would condensate. I'm confused.
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Old 05-12-2017, 09:41 PM   #29
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Warm pipes don't condensate.
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Old 05-14-2017, 12:22 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by somewhereinusa View Post
Warm pipes don't condensate.
I would build my floors in sections tho. Blow a hose or a hose clamp gets loose and you'll be in a world of hurt especially if it is still your engine coolant.

I was thinking radiant. Would be nice to make use of the heater hoses. Just thought of the sectioning of the floor tho. May just use electrical instead. Don't need to run the engine for that. Who wants to get up and idle the engine for an hour?
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