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Old 04-23-2018, 08:45 AM   #1
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Home electric oven

So...i bought an rv oven used for 250 last week, and just stumbled on this household electricity range up at work for 80 bucks...i know it'll draw more power, but am I gonna regret putting this big guy in my bus? 80 dollars for a brand new electric range....i already told the guys sold and have a hold tag on it, just wanting other opinions
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Old 04-23-2018, 09:37 AM   #2
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If you have the room and can plug in to power it go for it.
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Old 04-23-2018, 09:48 AM   #3
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If you always have 50 Amp service and you have space for it you should be fine.

Many of the State and National parks that I have stayed at do not have 50 Amps service. Boondocking would be problematic as well.
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Old 04-23-2018, 10:08 AM   #4
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The oven says it's takes 3 or 4 prong connector, running watts at 2600 while baking, so I was planning on it being used only with generator running and wiring it up to 30 amp rv receptacle on my 2800w / 3100surge champion inverter generator. Would this work? Owners manual does say 40 amp breaker for oven
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Old 04-23-2018, 10:21 AM   #5
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watts are watts.. look at the watt rating of each stovetop element and the watt rating of the oven.. also some ovens go into a pre-heat mode where more wattage is required as it runs the broiler and oven at once till it reaches temperature... I know my home range does this and you cannot disable it.. so it may pull more than 2600 during pre-heat.
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Old 04-23-2018, 10:29 AM   #6
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So this is the spec sheet I found for the white version since this one isn't on our site anymore. Maybe someone can help me understand it better based off this

My head thinks it should work off the genny, but I'm still new to this and don't fully grasp the electrical side yet besides 12v. I believe it should work for range side no problem, but I'm unsure about oven
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Old 04-23-2018, 10:42 AM   #7
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With a 2600W element(s) in the oven, it should be wired 240V.

Maximum supply on 120V is usually around 1800W.
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Old 04-23-2018, 10:43 AM   #8
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since it isnt an electronic control it very well may not use a preheat which would be beneficial to you as it would just run one element in the oven.
the stovetop elements look like you can use those for sure separately of the oven.
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Old 04-23-2018, 11:16 AM   #9
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I'm buying the oven regardless since it's 80 bucks, and I can easily resell for profit if I don't use it, but I would like to....i guess I need to learn more about 30a and 50a and 120/240 so I can figure out what to do. I'm still confused on how to make it work I think from a lack of understanding of 120/240v systems.

So for 240 I would need a 50a plug in? I plan on boondocking a lot with a battery bank and my gas genny
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Old 04-23-2018, 12:13 PM   #10
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Standard RV hookups are 30A/120V or 50A/240V. So, yes you will need 50A service and a 240V generator of sufficient capacity if you want to boondock.

Also consider that you may want to use the cooktop at the same time as the oven.

I would suggest flipping the electric and installing the propane.

Just my $0.02
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Old 04-23-2018, 12:17 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PNW_Steve View Post
Standard RV hookups are 30A/120V or 50A/240V. So, yes you will need 50A service and a 240V generator of sufficient capacity if you want to boondock.

Also consider that you may want to use the cooktop at the same time as the oven.

I would suggest flipping the electric and installing the propane.

Just my $0.02

i believe this is what ill do. I'm gonna check what else we have at lowes though, because we put out a lot of old appliances they found in back and i believe some of the gas models only have the 120v plug, so maybe i can convert one of those. Or i should just stick with the RV one i already got...i just like the idea of full size oven

edit - if i link two champion 2800w inverter generators, which both have the 30a RV plug, is there some way to adapt it to 50a after linking 2 generators together? just curious if that would even work.
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Old 04-23-2018, 01:51 PM   #12
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The mention of "watts are watts" is correct, but volts and resistance come into the equation too..

An electric-fuel oven in the US is almost universally designed to run the heat elements on a 240 volt supply. They could be run at a lower voltage, say 120. The trouble is that power can be expressed as volts squared divided by resistance. If the voltage is divided by 2, the resulting power in the resistor (heat element) goes down by 4. The 2600 W bake element would deliver just 650 watts when powered from 120 volts and oven performance would be.. disappointing.

A gas-fuel oven in the US is likely to require a 120 volt supply because that's what the timer, igniter, etc run on. The electricity isn't used for heating at all.

In concept, two 120 volt inverters could be linked to make a 240 volt source -- by a person who's adept at reverse-engineering the circuits. The Honda EU6500 comes from the factory this way: it contains two 120 volt inverters designed to work in series or in parallel. Unfortunately it's not really practical to hack two 120 volt generators so they'll stack as a 240 volt source (inverter or otherwise).

IMHO the best way to get an off-the-shelf 120 volt oven is to buy a "convection microwave" oven. It's what happens when a toaster oven and a microwave are cross-bred. It's an especially good fit for an RV where space is a premium.
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Old 04-23-2018, 02:41 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by family wagon View Post
The mention of "watts are watts" is correct, but volts and resistance come into the equation too..

An electric-fuel oven in the US is almost universally designed to run the heat elements on a 240 volt supply. They could be run at a lower voltage, say 120. The trouble is that power can be expressed as volts squared divided by resistance. If the voltage is divided by 2, the resulting power in the resistor (heat element) goes down by 4. The 2600 W bake element would deliver just 650 watts when powered from 120 volts and oven performance would be.. disappointing.

A gas-fuel oven in the US is likely to require a 120 volt supply because that's what the timer, igniter, etc run on. The electricity isn't used for heating at all.

In concept, two 120 volt inverters could be linked to make a 240 volt source -- by a person who's adept at reverse-engineering the circuits. The Honda EU6500 comes from the factory this way: it contains two 120 volt inverters designed to work in series or in parallel. Unfortunately it's not really practical to hack two 120 volt generators so they'll stack as a 240 volt source (inverter or otherwise).

IMHO the best way to get an off-the-shelf 120 volt oven is to buy a "convection microwave" oven. It's what happens when a toaster oven and a microwave are cross-bred. It's an especially good fit for an RV where space is a premium.

Thank you for all that info! Spelling it out makes it much easier to comprehend.So my linking theory is correct (kinda) but much easier said than done and not recommended if the units aren't meant to run like that.

I'm just gonna be sticking to the rv oven, I don't need to try and add complications when I already have something that works. No plan for a microwave right now, but may add at some point just for quick reheating
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