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Old 01-11-2015, 11:41 AM   #11
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I suspect that you could probably save further $$ if you offer to shave the overspray yourself. Remember in the old days TECHNOLOGY was expensive and LABOR was cheap, but today it is the opposite and LABOR/TIME is what the contractor is really charging you. So go on youtube and learn to make a Hotwire foam cutter, and spend your time shaving down the overspray.
Good luck!
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Old 01-11-2015, 12:32 PM   #12
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I suspect that you could probably save further $$ if you offer to shave the overspray yourself. Remember in the old days TECHNOLOGY was expensive and LABOR was cheap, but today it is the opposite and LABOR/TIME is what the contractor is really charging you. So go on youtube and learn to make a Hotwire foam cutter, and spend your time shaving down the overspray.
Good luck!
I like that. Putting the money down to get it done right, but putting in some effort to save yourself some money. I was expecting to break a grand on insulation alone, looks like I may be better off than that.
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Old 01-11-2015, 01:05 PM   #13
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The only quote I've had so far was something like two grand.
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Old 01-11-2015, 01:37 PM   #14
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The only quote I've had so far was something like two grand.
That sounds about right. Keep shopping around and see if any other contractors can beat that.

You have a full-size bus (or near full-size?) so - judging by my experience - for 3" thick insulation you'd be looking at 3 or 4 DIY spray foam kits ($1800 to $2400) and the nastiest mess you've ever seen in your life.
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Old 01-11-2015, 02:41 PM   #15
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I'm going to have two inches of foam, maybe two and a half tops.
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Old 01-11-2015, 06:30 PM   #16
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I am planning on an "arctic worthy" bus as well and my only concern with spray foam is its rigidity. If it hardens too much, won't it eventually leave big gaps by studs or crack?

The performance value compared to something like foam boards is good, but if you cut the boards yourself and spray foam into cracks, it could save you money and you wouldn't have the same threat of gaps and cracks.

I am planning on 4" on walls, ceiling, and floor. I am researching the ambient heating in the floor but thermosiphons are tricky because the floor is lower than the stack. You might get creative with copper piping around part of the engine to heat the water but then maintenance will be a huge PITA.

Keep us posted, and we'll do the same!
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Old 01-11-2015, 06:33 PM   #17
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I am planning on an "arctic worthy" bus as well and my only concern with spray foam is its rigidity. If it hardens too much, won't it eventually leave big gaps by studs or crack?

The performance value compared to something like foam boards is good, but if you cut the boards yourself and spray foam into cracks, it could save you money and you wouldn't have the same threat of gaps and cracks.

I am planning on 4" on walls, ceiling, and floor. I am researching the ambient heating in the floor but thermosiphons are tricky because the floor is lower than the stack. You might get creative with copper piping around part of the engine to heat the water but then maintenance will be a huge PITA.

Keep us posted, and we'll do the same!
That is my backup plan. Foam spray in the cracks between sheets of foam.
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Old 01-11-2015, 07:13 PM   #18
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This is going to sound a bit silly but if you are planning some sort of deck or P/V array on the roof, couldn't you insulate on the outside as well? Under the deck or solar panels do something like this:


Maybe cover the sides from the windows to the deck/panels with fiberglass or sheet metal for protection. This would provide a significant thermal break and could save some precious inches of headroom, while still getting 4"+ or insulation.

By the way this is in Nome, Alaska.
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Old 01-12-2015, 01:40 PM   #19
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Quote:
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I am planning on an "arctic worthy" bus as well and my only concern with spray foam is its rigidity. If it hardens too much, won't it eventually leave big gaps by studs or crack?
As long as the spray foam is uv protected it will remain spongy, not rigid. It is softer and more flexible than rigid foam board by a lot. In my case, I ran ribs the length of the bus and sprayed between. As the foam expands it really locks itself into that cage. It also adheres to damn well anything as long as it's dry and relatively clean (which makes cleaning it up a real pain in the arse).
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Old 01-12-2015, 03:49 PM   #20
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nice discussion going on here. In terms of the pro vs diy debate on the spray foam, its like that on a lot of things. The first time you do the job will be tough, you'll make mistakes, and you probably would have been better off hiring someone. But now you know how to do it, learned from those mistakes, and can do a better job next time. So if there's going to be a next time, might wanna try doing it yourself. If this is the only bus you'll ever convert, probably better to pay someone.
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