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Old 01-05-2017, 03:28 PM   #31
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: SE Florida
Posts: 277
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 65 pax
Quote:
Originally Posted by milkmania View Post
Our culture dictates what we want not what we need...
I once told my wife (now ex, now fiancÚ) I'd rather have nothing, than worry and stress over what I do have.

A really close friend built a new house and HUGE shop... I talked to him Monday, he now realizes (and regrets) that he's put himself in a situation where he HAS to go to work everyday.
WOW!!! That shop is HUGE!

Sandi
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Old 01-18-2017, 10:35 AM   #32
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Western Montana
Posts: 16
Chassis: Thomas Built
Engine: 5.9L Cummins 12V
Rated Cap: 54 passenger
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crozz View Post
I am looking for input from the Skoolie community. I have laid out my bus and measure most things by windows. For example my kitchen space is 3.5 windows at most. I will have some overhead cabinets but only above the kitchen. The issue at hand is with my oven/stove top, single kitchen sink, and chest style fridge freezer I am basically out of counter space and even more so drawers. Under the sink will be a regular water heater which also takes space away.

Couple notes:
I have an external propane grill that I will always have with me.
I am planning on a chest fridge from truckfridge.com.

Questions:
Anyone who has an oven who uses their skoolie as an RV actually use the oven?
Would 2 propane burners be suffice for 1-2 week outings? Think this would only get used at night or when its raining or such.
Is a microwave or toaster oven a better choice than an oven?

Basically i'm looking to remove the oven unit and go with a 2 burner counter unit and gain a couple of shelves and maybe a cutting board. Trying to get a feel for what folks actually use since my kitchen will be rather small and I value counter space. Any input is welcome!
A neat idea I've seen is to make your refrigerator one that is accessed from the top. Basically rotate the compressor 90 degrees. I read it saves a decent amount on electricity and you can put it under part of the counter top that raises up. A bit weird when you have a bunch of stuff on it and you need to get something from the fridge but there are plenty of ways to work this issue out.
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Old 01-18-2017, 11:32 AM   #33
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Pensacola and Crystal River, FL
Posts: 411
Year: 1998
Coachwork: AmTran International
Chassis: 3800
Engine: Navistar 7.6L
Quote:
Originally Posted by MiLochiNya View Post
A neat idea I've seen is to make your refrigerator one that is accessed from the top. Basically rotate the compressor 90 degrees. I read it saves a decent amount on electricity and you can put it under part of the counter top that raises up. A bit weird when you have a bunch of stuff on it and you need to get something from the fridge but there are plenty of ways to work this issue out.
Why not lay it down with the hinge side on the floor?
Install shocks or a tension spring on the door(s) to control the opening speed. Entire fridge can then stay under the stationary countertop.
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Old 01-18-2017, 12:48 PM   #34
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Park Hills, Mo.
Posts: 39
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crozz View Post
Couple notes:
I have an external propane grill that I will always have with me.
I am planning on a chest fridge from truckfridge.com.
I've been to their showroom a couple of times there in Georgetown Ky. I had plans to buy a fridge from them to fit inside one of my cabinets in the big truck. Boy oh boy are they expensive. I ended up going with a basic dorm fridge with a lock on the door to keep it from swinging open when I was driving. Used it for years and I still have it now as a garage fridge. Dang thing held up nicely for over 400,000 miles in that truck.
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Old 01-18-2017, 02:53 PM   #35
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Pensacola and Crystal River, FL
Posts: 411
Year: 1998
Coachwork: AmTran International
Chassis: 3800
Engine: Navistar 7.6L
somewhere here there is mention of making your own chest fridge out of a conventional chest freezer.
I think all that was needed was an external temperature control assembly to bypass the original controls.
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Old 01-18-2017, 05:20 PM   #36
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Kansas
Posts: 409
Year: 2000
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: Your mom +1
Quote:
Originally Posted by DoubleO7 View Post
somewhere here there is mention of making your own chest fridge out of a conventional chest freezer.
I think all that was needed was an external temperature control assembly to bypass the original controls.
Yep, that (in my opinion) is the best way to go. I tried a 3 way rv fridge first and scrapped that idea pretty fast. The chest freezer with external temp control has drastically lowered my power consumption and at just around 100 bucks for a brand new chest freezer and 60 or so for the temp control I couldn't beat the price, so that's the way I went.

Hid it under part of the kitchen counter-top that is hinged to open with the fridge. Now I have a yuuge kitchen counter and, honestly I could've gone with a smaller chest freezer and been fine.

I don't know if I just got lucky or what but with the temp control set to 35 degrees I get temps from 33-37 towards the top and all the way down at the bottom it stays below freezing. I added a styrofoam divider piece and now have both a fridge and freezer running on one temp control. So I got that goin' for me... Which is nice...
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Old 01-18-2017, 11:09 PM   #37
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Western Montana
Posts: 16
Chassis: Thomas Built
Engine: 5.9L Cummins 12V
Rated Cap: 54 passenger
Quote:
Originally Posted by DoubleO7 View Post
Why not lay it down with the hinge side on the floor?
Install shocks or a tension spring on the door(s) to control the opening speed. Entire fridge can then stay under the stationary countertop.
To conserve energy is my main thought. Cold air falls. Opening a fridge from the top does not allow all the cold air to fall out unlike opening a fridge from the side. Perhaps it doesn't really matter if one has set up a solar power system properly.
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Old 01-19-2017, 12:30 AM   #38
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 4,975
Year: 1946
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Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
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Naaa...chest types are inherently more efficient that the side door types for just the reason stated. They don't spill out all the old every time they are opened.
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Old 01-19-2017, 08:34 AM   #39
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Pensacola and Crystal River, FL
Posts: 411
Year: 1998
Coachwork: AmTran International
Chassis: 3800
Engine: Navistar 7.6L
Quote:
Originally Posted by MiLochiNya View Post
To conserve energy is my main thought. Cold air falls. Opening a fridge from the top does not allow all the cold air to fall out unlike opening a fridge from the side. Perhaps it doesn't really matter if one has set up a solar power system properly.
But energy use wise, a fridge lying on it's side would not dump any more cold air than the 99.99% of all conventional fridges.

But yes, a chest type fridge or freezer would be more efficient energy wise.
But less convenient and less efficient in space use.

I know first hand the benefits of a chest freezer. I have left our chest freezer wide open (by mistake) more than once all day. In the garage when the ambient temps are in the 90's and it still had everything frozen after 10= hours, lol. Power meter was made some more turns though.
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Old 01-19-2017, 11:01 AM   #40
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Kansas
Posts: 409
Year: 2000
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: Your mom +1
Quote:
Originally Posted by DoubleO7 View Post
But less convenient and less efficient in space use.
Mine has actually been more convenient than a conventional set-up and allowed a more efficient use of space for me so YMMV...
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