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Old 10-22-2019, 10:45 AM   #21
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Thanks for all the info, Danjo!


As for pipe joints in concealed locations, definitely not allowed.

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Old 10-22-2019, 11:02 AM   #22
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Thanks for all the info, Danjo!


As for pipe joints in concealed locations, definitely not allowed.
Yes. I’m correcting my posts.
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Old 10-22-2019, 11:24 AM   #23
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For point #2, run black pipe to the appliance and install the shut off there. Then the flared. copper tube the last foot.

This is another major point of confusion for me. Intuitively, I figured that what you suggest... black pipe up through the floor, then going to copper inside... made a lot more sense. But I can't find a single google-search example of this on manufactured RVs. Literally every picture I can find shows going to copper from black pipe under the vehicle.
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Old 10-22-2019, 11:49 AM   #24
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This is another major point of confusion for me. Intuitively, I figured that what you suggest... black pipe up through the floor, then going to copper inside... made a lot more sense. But I can't find a single google-search example of this on manufactured RVs. Literally every picture I can find shows going to copper from black pipe under the vehicle.
I might need to do another retraction! Sorry!
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Old 10-22-2019, 12:39 PM   #25
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Great discussion. Really appreciate everyone's input. It's good to have the distinction between tubing & pipe defined in the context of what can be ran where. I figured that was one significant distinction, but the code portions I had read didn't make it glaringly clear.

So while I have y'all on the line, so to speak, here's my tentative plan. Let me know if anyone sees a problem, or improvements:

1) properly-sized black pipe well-secured under the bus, as main distribution 'backbone', running to the approximate location of each appliance.

2) for each appliance: a gas shutoff valve off the black pipe, into K/L copper tubing, which then penetrates the floor and runs directly to appliance. Floor penetration protected by rubber grommet.

3) For my problem-child run, everything the same except copper pipe instead of tubing (purely for aesthetics), left exposed. (alternatively, copper tubing covered by something decorative, but removable, as suggested above).

Also, what would be the best thing to use from the tank regulator to the black pipe?
I think this is a good plan. You can put shutoffs along the "backbone" if you want, but you need them at the appliance as well. For the problem child, personally I would run black pipe right to it, I prefer the appearance of it vs copper tubing if it was to be exposed. Alternatively, running some tubing up and covering it with a removable panel might blend in better. From the regulator to the system piping there should be a flexible connector, this is to prevent vibration from transferring from one to the other. I don't see it mentioned anywhere in 1192, but I do remember that from some other standard, NFPA 58 maybe, as it applied to mobile installations. We required it for food truck propane systems and I don't remember off the top of my head what standard it was in.

Danjo, you are correct on the 45* flare.

"5.3.6.1 Propane tubing joints shall be permitted to be made
with a single or double flare of 45 degrees conforming to SAE
J533, as recommended by the tubing manufacturer, or by
means of listed vibration-resistant fittings, or the joints shall be
brazed with a material having a melting point exceeding
1000°F (538°C)."

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Originally Posted by TheHubbardBus View Post
This is another major point of confusion for me. Intuitively, I figured that what you suggest... black pipe up through the floor, then going to copper inside... made a lot more sense. But I can't find a single google-search example of this on manufactured RVs. Literally every picture I can find shows going to copper from black pipe under the vehicle.
I think this is probably a cost issue for them more than anything. Steel pipe is more labor intensive and time consuming to cut, thread and install and they want to get it done as fast and as cheap as possible. I don't think there is any issue with doing it either way.
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Old 10-22-2019, 01:36 PM   #26
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AWESOME! Thanks so much, all! Think I can take it from here. Couldn't have figured it out without y'all.


And yes, I'll pressure/leak test everything before putting into service. Propane's a ways off, but I needed to have my plan figured out now. Thankfully I've helped install gas lines before, including pressure testing, so it won't be my first rodeo on that front.
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Old 10-22-2019, 02:02 PM   #27
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Very interesting thread, lots of useful information. Thanks to everyone who has posted.
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Old 10-22-2019, 03:35 PM   #28
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If anyone's interested, here's the link to the relevant code standard:


https://www.nfpa.org/codes-and-stand...tail?code=1192


If you create an account (free) you can view this & other NFPA docs ('free access' button).
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Old 10-30-2019, 03:43 PM   #29
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Run pipe up the 4ft on the outside if the bus?
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Old 11-17-2019, 08:13 PM   #30
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Well I don't care what the code says. I am going to run schedule 40 pipe made of 316 stainless. I have new HSS inserts in my threading die and Ridgid tells me that they are up to the job.
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