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Old 03-14-2019, 08:51 AM   #1
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Rear heater questions

1-If removed, what needs to be done with these wires? Can you simply ball them up and tuck away or should they be completely disconnected? Or should they be utilized for something else?

2-When looping the hoses (close to the drivers seat), can I use black cast iron fitting? Just wondering if BCI and coolant have some negative reaction with each other.

3-If I decided to keep the rear heater (for rear passenger comfort while driving) would it be smart to replace with hard lines to reduce any chance of failure while being buried behind the build?

My work has been delayed due to an injury so Iím excited to jump back in. Any helpful responses are appreciated.
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Old 03-14-2019, 09:49 AM   #2
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I pulled mine with the intention of putting it back in after installing my floor. I determined that it was no longer necessary after insulating the bus and using the dashboard heater. With that in mind:

1. I traced mine all the way to the electrical panel and disconnected and removed them. Much easier on a mechanical bus where you don't have too many wires. You could also cut them short and wrap the ends with a little tape.

2. I would assume so but I'm not a metals guy. As long as the coolant won't eat it it should be fine.

3. The wiring in my bus was more than adequate and in good condition. if yours is worn or undersized (not likely) then by all means. but probably not necessary.
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Old 03-14-2019, 10:04 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pygmy Yeti View Post
2-When looping the hoses (close to the drivers seat), can I use black cast iron fitting? Just wondering if BCI and coolant have some negative reaction with each other.
When I removed my heater, I got a 5/8" hose barb splice adapter with a couple hose clamps from the big box store. They make them in a number of sizes. Anyway, it cost just a couple bucks, the barbs will help keep the hose from coming off, and the adapter is brass and shouldn't have any reaction issues with antifreeze.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/BrassCraft-...tting/50359458

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Old 03-14-2019, 11:13 AM   #4
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If you donít want the heat, I think it is worth the time to follow the lines back and remove all extra. Less chance of a leak and just peace of mind that it is tidy.

If you keep it, I would suggest running the lines under the floor/under the bus. I did and it turned out really well.

Check compatibility of your materials with the antifreeze you run. Seems like oem stuff is brass or steel. When I was researching it seemed like they really try to make coolant as non corrosive to as many materials as possible.
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Old 03-14-2019, 03:30 PM   #5
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If you don't want the heater at all I would demo the line all the way back and cap it there.
If you do want to keep the heater then I would route the lines outside/under the bus.
Not bury them inside in a wall.
Those lines are eventually going to age out or wear out and leak somewhere.
Black iron is compatible with antifreeze fluid itself but buy the time spent on getting the correct size nipples to fit inside the hose,an elbow to match the nipples and double hose clamps on either side to hold the hose on the nipple you could just buy a brass barbed fitting and two hose clamps and be done with it.
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Old 03-14-2019, 07:19 PM   #6
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3. The wiring in my bus was more than adequate and in good condition. if yours is worn or undersized (not likely) then by all means. but probably not necessary.
I apologize for being vague, I meant the hoses, not the wiring. I appreciate your help on the other aspects for sure.
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Old 03-14-2019, 07:22 PM   #7
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I’ve had trouble in my area finding the brass fittings (barbed and threaded for a tighter, condense turn than a straight barbed coupler). So I bought the appropriate black cast iron fittings wondering if they are conducive to coolant. I appreciate your feedback.

Edit- intended for farok
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Old 03-14-2019, 07:31 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by david.dgeorge07 View Post

Check compatibility of your materials with the antifreeze you run. Seems like oem stuff is brass or steel. When I was researching it seemed like they really try to make coolant as non corrosive to as many materials as possible.
Thatís kinda what Iím doing here with people I hold in higher regard than most internet authors. I think it would be safe too but wanted to run it by people with similar setups. I would hate to make the connections and regret it. I value your response.
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Old 03-14-2019, 07:38 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jolly Roger bus 223 View Post
If you don't want the heater at all I would demo the line all the way back and cap it there.
If you do want to keep the heater then I would route the lines outside/under the bus.
Not bury them inside in a wall.
Those lines are eventually going to age out or wear out and leak somewhere.
Black iron is compatible with antifreeze fluid itself but buy the time spent on getting the correct size nipples to fit inside the hose,an elbow to match the nipples and double hose clamps on either side to hold the hose on the nipple you could just buy a brass barbed fitting and two hose clamps and be done with it.
Glad to hear about the compatibility and it took a whole 3 minutes to find the parts in BCI. No luck finding similar brass setup in my local box stores. I know I could order online but just bought the BCI for a couple bucks and wanted to check here.

I will assume the hoses are original and they made this far so , if I was to keep them, I was considering replacing the hoses with new hose or if it would be better to replace with BCI. Maybe Iím over thinking it but damn itís fun!

Cheers for the help
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Old 03-15-2019, 05:21 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pygmy Yeti View Post
Iíve had trouble in my area finding the brass fittings (barbed and threaded for a tighter, condense turn than a straight barbed coupler). So I bought the appropriate black cast iron fittings wondering if they are conducive to coolant. I appreciate your feedback.

Edit- intended for farok
I spent almost a day driving around looking for a brass coupling for this at auto parts and big box stores. Nobody had any for the 1" ID hose (only one store even had a 3/4" fitting) so I ordered one from firehosedirect.com: https://www.firehosedirect.com/brass-1-hose-mender
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