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09-20-2017, 03:46 PM
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#1
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Saint Paul, Minnesota
Posts: 41
Year: 1989
Engine: DT360 Diesel
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What is this
While gutting the BUS I noticed this long hose which I want to remove, and anything that it connects to. Now does this have any bad effects on anything ?? and are there some benefits I may be loosing? FYI- I planning to use to use a propane furnace as my heat source.
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09-20-2017, 04:09 PM
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#2
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 1,497
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: Bluebird
Engine: 5.9 Cummins 24v
Rated Cap: 72 pax
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It looks like the coolant lines to the interior heaters. If you remove them, you should loop them as close to the engine as possible. If you have a RE bus you will lose heat/defrost up front.
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09-20-2017, 04:26 PM
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#3
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Saint Paul, Minnesota
Posts: 41
Year: 1989
Engine: DT360 Diesel
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I have a Thomson International 3800, Ok so I can shorten it so I can keep the heat up front ?? or it is possible to removed all that and just use it for defrosting ??
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09-20-2017, 04:35 PM
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#4
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Weeki Wachee, FL
Posts: 3,056
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: Cummins 5.9
Rated Cap: 72
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I encourage you to look at how many threads on this site are about how to heat and cool a bus before getting too gung ho about removing heater lines!
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09-20-2017, 04:38 PM
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#5
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Saint Paul, Minnesota
Posts: 41
Year: 1989
Engine: DT360 Diesel
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Agreed, just seems to be a bit bulky, and I'm not sure what get HOT and or how it work so I might need to start there, I guess it nice to have heat from the engine so I'm not using my propane heat.
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09-20-2017, 06:02 PM
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#6
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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09-20-2017, 07:17 PM
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#7
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: North carolina
Posts: 651
Year: 1986
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Ford
Engine: Detroit 8.2
Rated Cap: 60 bodies
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You can keep and or relocate the heaters as needed and reroute the hoses underneath or hard pipe them and only use hoses as needed.
Just an idea
Good luck
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09-20-2017, 07:18 PM
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#8
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 1,497
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: Bluebird
Engine: 5.9 Cummins 24v
Rated Cap: 72 pax
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By the way, something I noticed when I gutted the seats... The fan motors need a ground strap if they are not mounted to the seat.
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09-21-2017, 11:32 AM
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#9
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Saint Paul, Minnesota
Posts: 41
Year: 1989
Engine: DT360 Diesel
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So what is the bleeder valve and that foot pedal ??
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09-22-2017, 12:06 PM
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#10
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 1,497
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: Bluebird
Engine: 5.9 Cummins 24v
Rated Cap: 72 pax
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The foot pedal is your high beam switch. The valve is the shut off to keep the system from heating the bus up in warm months.
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09-22-2017, 02:20 PM
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#11
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Traveling
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Midwest
Posts: 2,573
Year: 2003
Coachwork: BlueBird
Chassis: TC2000
Engine: 5.9L Cummins
Rated Cap: '00
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Njsurf73
The foot pedal is your high beam switch.
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Can always spot the younger drivers.
I had a basic pickup and told one of my kids to go roll-up the windows. They asked for keys, said they don't need--not electric.
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09-22-2017, 07:18 PM
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#12
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 1,497
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: Bluebird
Engine: 5.9 Cummins 24v
Rated Cap: 72 pax
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty
Can always spot the younger drivers.[emoji2]
I had a basic pickup and told one of my kids to go roll-up the windows. They asked for keys, said they don't need--not electric.
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I suspect it is a youngster. Been a while since the high beams were on the floor.
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09-22-2017, 07:24 PM
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#13
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Saint Paul, Minnesota
Posts: 41
Year: 1989
Engine: DT360 Diesel
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Dang, Yea I would have never through that! LMAO
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09-22-2017, 08:47 PM
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#14
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,758
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
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if your bus engine is in front and you dont need any road-heat while driving in the back of your bus you can take that lineset out.. it *WILL* be full of coolant so plan accordingly.. there are also 2 valves under the hood, make sure those are closed or you'll drain half your coolant system into the cabin when you pull those lines..
go ahead and loop the remaining pipes together at the driver heater console usng a short piece of that hose..
you will have lost some coolant so youll want to start the bus and open all the heater valves and replace coolant as needed..
this lets you get rid of the rear heaters but still keep the full heating and defogging system up front.. and YES you will need it!! first time you get caught in a cool rain your windshield will fog up and youll want that heat.
if your buss is rear engine, then disconnecting those lines will render your front heating system inoperative... if you plan on any cold winter driving without front heat, go ahead and buy yourself a nice warmn coat, nice warm gloves, a scarf and a long handled windshield scraper(for the Inside of the glass so you can see)...
-Christopher
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09-22-2017, 09:12 PM
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#15
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Saint Paul, Minnesota
Posts: 41
Year: 1989
Engine: DT360 Diesel
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Christopher, I have a International DT360 juts like you!
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