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Old 09-17-2018, 08:32 PM   #1
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wiring fridge ground to frame?

Hello. I made the mistake of putting my fridge far away from my battery and have to run 6 gauge wire and would like to avoid running it both ways. Has anyone run their DC fridge to the frame for ground, rather than the battery? It is a NovaKool 5812. Can anyone explain what the difference would be in terms of performance or protection of the appliance?

Thanks.
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Old 09-17-2018, 08:48 PM   #2
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All of my 12v grounds use the bus body and frame for returns. The battery ground terminal goes directly to the frame/body and all the ground wires from the 12v applications go directly to the frame/body wherever they are. A word of caution, however, be sure the ground attachments are kept clean, dry and secures or you will end up with high resistance shorts capable of heating conductors to the point of their ignihting.
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Old 09-17-2018, 08:52 PM   #3
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I never rely on chassis return for any important / expensive nor high current load devices.
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Old 09-17-2018, 08:58 PM   #4
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I respect your choice but would like to hear (electrically speaking) why.
Thanks, Jack
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Old 09-17-2018, 09:06 PM   #5
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the spaghetti system -- wiring and angry pixies

Here is how I look at it. When we use the frame, body, chassis as the ground framework, we are setting up the lot to have problems. We also turn the corrosion monster on.

Other things, like aeroplanes do not, to my knowledge, use the chassis as a ground network. Many times the chassis/body/frame grounds are the source of the problems with electrical systems in automobiles.

I am running grounds to terminal strips and the battery and alternator will also be grounded to the same terminal strip. This will be extra work in the short term in exchange for long term lack of problems.

I will give you an example. A ground wire starts at the drivers top in the roof runs across the roof in front to the passenger side, drops down to the skirt on the passenger side, runs to the rear along the skirt, up the passenger side at the rear, across to the drivers side along the roof, down to the skirt on the drivers side, along the drivers side skirt to the engine bay, terminal strip. all clearance, running, stop, turn, lights will use the same ground. I also have zinc pieces from the boat world, to attach to the body and will run chassis/ body ground to the planet earth. These are rubber strips about an inch wide that drag on the ground. Wires embedded in the rubber strips.

I think in the end it boils down to what is thought, by some, as a "better practice"

Kind of like a surgeon that uses a check list, and a surgeon that has a checklist but doesn't really use it, and the surgeon that does not use check lists. Mistakes will happen, some less often than others. I am sorry if I rambled on here.

william
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Old 09-17-2018, 09:11 PM   #6
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taking a risk

Sounds like you are all saying the same thing, i.e. you are taking a risk by running separate grounds. Probably worth it for my toilet fan, but not my $1400 fridge.

So any of you smart folks know about inline fuses? I can't find a 6 gauge/15 amp inline fuse. Can I run say a 10 gauge wire inline fuse 1 foot from battery and splice to the 6 gauge? Fridge requires 15 amp fuse, my 43 feet requires 6 gauge wire. Also some wire calculators say you have to count BOTH directions (i.e. ground wire too), but the fridge manual says only count distance to battery?

Thanks.
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Old 09-17-2018, 09:33 PM   #7
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do not use inline fuse... use a fuse block terminate wire with ring or hook terminal, to fuse block, then fuse, then wire to battery..... much larger than than the fridge wire.
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Old 09-17-2018, 09:45 PM   #8
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I have an AC/DC power center, but the DC fuse block won't take 6 gauge wire - for some reason is very tiny - too tiny to even use a ring or hook. Can I run a 10 gauge from a separate buss to the fuse panel with my 6 gauge on the other side of this buss? Fuse panel will be wired directly to battery.
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Old 09-17-2018, 10:00 PM   #9
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Not just corrosion over time, modern builds often just don't have good low-resistance paths fresh off the factory floor.

But yes even on old school frame rails, resistance can build over time.

Low amp non-critical cheap gizmos, go for it if you like.

In fact do what you like full stop, just giving my advice.
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Old 09-17-2018, 10:07 PM   #10
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short answer don't do it. I will elaborate if you wish. Time for new fuse block do not replace what you have just going to add one. did not think of this till now... use circuit breaker like this one.
Box-Style Circuit Breakers Series - Circuit Breakers from Other Products and Accessories - Littelfuse

the screw for the power wires are 10-32 for all of them up to 40 amp..... so the ring terminal for a 10-32 properly crimped will be fine for 15 amps

In my mental picture a bus bar has one big honkin cable attatched and that goes to the power feeding the bus bar. all the other cables on the bus bar are much smaller than the big honkin cable. Same set up for grounding.
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