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Old 10-25-2016, 01:37 PM   #71
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Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Essex, MD
Posts: 1,841
Year: 1999
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, AT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
Really hope to see you make good on your purchase. I live in Essex, MD (100 miles away). If I had property I'd let you park the bus there but I've already got 2 cars in the drive and 3 more on the street. The neighbors would **** kittens!!

I just bought a Jetta TDI but aside from changing the oil, oil filter, fuel filter and air filter on it, I have no diesel experience. If you run into the weekend, let me know and I can at least lend a hand.
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Old 10-25-2016, 03:16 PM   #72
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
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Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International S3800
Engine: DT360
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
im still not convinced that injector isnt an issue... running it with the valve cover off might give you a clue... as does the marks on the inside of the valve cover.. thats not normal.. you can unplug one injector at a time and see how the engine run / smoke changes if at all..

of course its tough being armchair.. you have a much better idea since you are in it first hand, getting an idea how it runs or how the smoke looks.., engine sounds

-Christopher
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Old 10-25-2016, 03:44 PM   #73
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Alright folks, time for an update. I'll keep it short and write a better post later on my computer (on my phone right now)

So following the o-rings change it seemed better when cold, the smell of burning oil was replaced with normal diesel exhaust smell, however when driving under load the usual clouds of smoke appear.

I pulled the turbo and oil poured out of the compressor side, which I assume is going to be the main problem. So I am taking it home to Louisiana to rebuild and will return later. Does anyone have recommendations for where to buy the rebuild kit?

Also, the flapper in the exhaust outlet of the turbo going into the exhaust...is this the exhaust back pressure device I have read about? It was a complete PITA to remove the actuator arm!!
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Old 10-25-2016, 03:56 PM   #74
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oil in the compressor is a bad thing!! too much and you end up with a runaway engine.. i was thinking that was clean prviously.. but I guess its nearly impossible to tell until you pull the turno off..

oil in the turbine (which you found in the exhaust pipes) would create smoke on its own... usually oil in the turbine leads to the seal also failing on the turbine side too...

so much for a "new turbo" being installed previously..

fortunately garrett parts are widely available... I do think this turbo is different from the fords.. but thats not set in stone from experience.. its simply what ive read about the IHC vs ford.. so it may be the same or have the same shaft and bearings..

-Christopher
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Old 10-25-2016, 04:50 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
oil in the compressor is a bad thing!! too much and you end up with a runaway engine.. i was thinking that was clean prviously.. but I guess its nearly impossible to tell until you pull the turno off..

oil in the turbine (which you found in the exhaust pipes) would create smoke on its own... usually oil in the turbine leads to the seal also failing on the turbine side too...

so much for a "new turbo" being installed previously..

fortunately garrett parts are widely available... I do think this turbo is different from the fords.. but thats not set in stone from experience.. its simply what ive read about the IHC vs ford.. so it may be the same or have the same shaft and bearings..

-Christopher

Oops, I meant to say turbine side, not sure why I wrote compressor...i guess it's been a long day! Feels like I've been in a fight, all my muscles hurt trying to wrestle that diesel motor!

The turbo has a "Navistar remanufactured" data plate, so I guess it was a overhauled unit rather than new like I thought. I will try and find quality parts rather than cheap Chinese stuff for my overhaul!
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Old 10-25-2016, 05:56 PM   #76
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Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
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Year: 1997
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Chassis: B3800 Short bus
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by deftone View Post
Also, the flapper in the exhaust outlet of the turbo going into the exhaust...is this the exhaust back pressure device I have read about? It was a complete PITA to remove the actuator arm!!
Yessir, that butterfly valve and hydraulic actuator together are the Exhaust Back Pressure Valve (EBPV) assembly. While it's a neat trick to help warm the engine while idling, or with lots of stop-and-go traffic, it's also a common location for oil leaks.

The linear actuator pushes the butterfly valve to the closed position when a solenoid valve opens and lets engine oil enter the actuator cylinder. The oil pressure pushes the actuator out and the butterfly valve closes. When the solenoid valve closes a spring pushes the actuator back so the butterfly valve is open again. Or at least that's the gist of it. Springs and directions may be reversed..

As I mentioned, it's a common point for oil leaks. The oil will leak down the turbo pedestal, into the engine valley, then down the back of the engine and make you think you have a rear crank seal leak. Mine was leaking and I opted to remove the actuator and butterfly valve entirely (an EBPV delete, they call it). For my uses it really wasn't necessary. When I start the engine I'm soon on the road and the engine warms up sufficiently. I'm never sitting around idling or slugging through traffic.

One neat trick with the EBPV which might make it worth keeping if you are thinking otherwise is that it can be rigged up to be activated by a switch on the dashboard. In this way it can be used as an exhaust brake.
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Old 10-25-2016, 06:27 PM   #77
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
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Year: 1997
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Chassis: B3800 Short bus
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 36
Oh, I should also add a link to this disclaimer about exhaust brakes on the 7.3l for completeness: Jacobs Vehicle Systems | FAQs.

Lots of people do the EBPV-to-exhaust-brake mod, but it could foul things up if used poorly.

It's also worth noting that an exhaust brake won't do jack for an automatic transmission that can't lock the torque converter. Manuals and automatics that can be forced to lock are good candidates.
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Old 10-25-2016, 06:51 PM   #78
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
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Year: 1991
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Chassis: International S3800
Engine: DT360
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
interesting on the oil leak... I havent looked at that on mine yet.. but the few drops of oil I find on the ground.. "look" like a rear main seal except I do notice some pil in my valley pan.. I do know my Racor CCV thing leaks a little..

is the exhaust backpressure valve on all of the T-444E? I notice mine doesnt sound any different when its cold than when its warm...

is it possible since my T-444E is texas that I had the non EBPV pedestal I see talked about online?


is that RACOR thing on the CCV stock or is it aftermarket? I have no idea how to tell if i need to replace the filter element in the RACOR...
-Christopher
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Old 10-25-2016, 07:38 PM   #79
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Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
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Chassis: B3800 Short bus
Engine: T444E
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
is the exhaust backpressure valve on all of the T-444E? I notice mine doesnt sound any different when its cold than when its warm...
I believe they're standard for the T444e. It's possible that it hasn't come on because it hasn't been cold enough yet, or it's already been removed.



If the exhaust side of your turbo looks like that then you have an EBPV.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
is that RACOR thing on the CCV stock or is it aftermarket? I have no idea how to tell if i need to replace the filter element in the RACOR...
Mine doesn't have such a device. The CCVs for my '97 are simple metal tubes directed to the ground.
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Old 10-25-2016, 07:38 PM   #80
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Location: Richmond Virginia
Posts: 906
Year: 1984
Engine: 366 Big block Chevy! :) w/ Stick shift
Side note here but, Ok a similar exhaust valve was on my 85 GMC truck, and unknown to me trying to figure out why i ran poorly. Finally found the non working valve (used to close exhaust off and heat up the cold motor quickly) and i wired it open, however...

The truck used to backfire randomly as much at two minutes after being shut off. Until one day i was reading on a forum and someone mentioned that some gmcs had this exhaust valve that if it went bad would go off like a "shotgun" i was like Eureka! that must be whats causing mine to go boom.
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