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Old 09-12-2016, 06:20 AM   #1
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
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Chassis: International, 643 transmission
Engine: DT 466ci 250hp, International
Rated Cap: 86 screaming Monsters
Car Hauler 40ft FE

I'm looking into building a enclosed car hauler. Front engine flat nosed bus.
I'm just a few weeks into the research but ready to get started on a solid plan if i can fit everything I need.

I need room to live in obliviously while on the road. The shop or car area is what I'm truly wanting to work well for me. From videos and pictures I have seen it looks like a clean rear doubled hinged door can be made in the bus for a ramp to get away from the car scraping
.
Where this gets side ways for me is I can squeak by with 18ft from the back door to the front wall. 20ft would be even better. I need a bus with the 6.5ft tall roof. I build a small gantry lift in the ceiling that allows me to lift the engine and transmission in and out and i have small scissor lift for under the car to adjust its height during work that lays virtually flat when down.
I currently have a set up like this that has a taller roof and is a bit wider that I'm trying to copy or model from. I don't use tool boxes as I put a peg board on the walls and strap/hang my tools to it.
What I could use is some help with laying out a living area with a 14 row flat nose FE Thomas or Blue bird with the remaining space.

In the living quarters I don't plan to install a stove top or oven. I'll use new wave and install a convention microwave and plan on BBQ'ing out side every chance i get. What i would like is a full size fridge a large stand up shower and toilet. clothes closet of some type or dresser. I'm not sure about a bathroom sink yet if it takes space for anything else. I'm hoping some one is really creative with space savings. I see lots of tiny stuff being built.
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Old 09-12-2016, 07:04 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geo Jeff View Post
I'm looking into building a enclosed car hauler. Front engine flat nosed bus.
I'm just a few weeks into the research but ready to get started on a solid plan if i can fit everything I need.

I need room to live in obliviously while on the road. The shop or car area is what I'm truly wanting to work well for me. From videos and pictures I have seen it looks like a clean rear doubled hinged door can be made in the bus for a ramp to get away from the car scraping
.
Where this gets side ways for me is I can squeak by with 18ft from the back door to the front wall. 20ft would be even better. I need a bus with the 6.5ft tall roof. I build a small gantry lift in the ceiling that allows me to lift the engine and transmission in and out and i have small scissor lift for under the car to adjust its height during work that lays virtually flat when down.
I currently have a set up like this that has a taller roof and is a bit wider that I'm trying to copy or model from. I don't use tool boxes as I put a peg board on the walls and strap/hang my tools to it.
What I could use is some help with laying out a living area with a 14 row flat nose FE Thomas or Blue bird with the remaining space.

In the living quarters I don't plan to install a stove top or oven. I'll use new wave and install a convention microwave and plan on BBQ'ing out side every chance i get. What i would like is a full size fridge a large stand up shower and toilet. clothes closet of some type or dresser. I'm not sure about a bathroom sink yet if it takes space for anything else. I'm hoping some one is really creative with space savings. I see lots of tiny stuff being built.
I thinbk the first thing to start with would be how much length you need for the garage portion then that gives you your available space to turn into travel / living space.. a 14 row FE will definitely be what id choose.. standard RV;'s used to always have a combo toilet / shower in a pretty small space.. as for a sink, I know i saw somewhere that soneone had made a fold up type device which was a sink.. or perhaps You could make a sink slightly recesses into a top and double it as a table?

-Christopher
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Old 09-12-2016, 11:38 AM   #3
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Getting greasy in the garage means you need a good clean up area. A little sink will be a pain to use and lots of water on the floor during a good hand washing.
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Old 09-12-2016, 12:54 PM   #4
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Year: 1978
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geo Jeff View Post
I'm looking into building a enclosed car hauler. Front engine flat nosed bus.
I'm just a few weeks into the research but ready to get started on a solid plan if i can fit everything I need.

I need room to live in obliviously while on the road. The shop or car area is what I'm truly wanting to work well for me. From videos and pictures I have seen it looks like a clean rear doubled hinged door can be made in the bus for a ramp to get away from the car scraping
.
Where this gets side ways for me is I can squeak by with 18ft from the back door to the front wall. 20ft would be even better. I need a bus with the 6.5ft tall roof. I build a small gantry lift in the ceiling that allows me to lift the engine and transmission in and out and i have small scissor lift for under the car to adjust its height during work that lays virtually flat when down.
I currently have a set up like this that has a taller roof and is a bit wider that I'm trying to copy or model from. I don't use tool boxes as I put a peg board on the walls and strap/hang my tools to it.
What I could use is some help with laying out a living area with a 14 row flat nose FE Thomas or Blue bird with the remaining space.

In the living quarters I don't plan to install a stove top or oven. I'll use new wave and install a convention microwave and plan on BBQ'ing out side every chance i get. What i would like is a full size fridge a large stand up shower and toilet. clothes closet of some type or dresser. I'm not sure about a bathroom sink yet if it takes space for anything else. I'm hoping some one is really creative with space savings. I see lots of tiny stuff being built.
Wow! you're not asking for much. Sounds a lot like my build, bit I only have 16' up front of my dog-nose 69pax Wayne. Here is my layout.

The stovetop is actually induction and hides under the countertop in a drawer. The convection/microwave oven is above the sink. The entertainment center is in the cabinet between the dinette and bathroom. The bathroom is currently being converted to also serve as a shower. The dinette makes a single bed. The couch jack-knifes into a full bed. I have overhead cabinets above everything I can. The fresh water tank is under the couch. there's also storage under the dinette seats. I put my closet in the garage on the other side of the wall from the refrigerator.



There's not a lot of living space up front, so I intend to setup my garage as a man-cave with a 40" TV, surround sound, cushion my ramps for couches, drop-down mosquito netting to screen it in with the back door open, and use the ramp as a back porch.
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Old 09-14-2016, 11:06 PM   #5
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Join Date: Sep 2016
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Chassis: International, 643 transmission
Engine: DT 466ci 250hp, International
Rated Cap: 86 screaming Monsters
I May go with a short flat nose bus. Ive been researching the heck out of this. The bus with it not being 102 inches wide like a enclosed car trailers just gives up the extra room I need. If I go short on the bus and build that into living quarters a 30 or 32 ft trailer would work just fine. The bus I wanted just because you can buy such heavy duty drive train for so little. Its just not ever going to be long enough or wide enough. The I keep seeing wanderlodge for sale at decent prices. Makes wonder if its worth converting when they do such a nice job laying the bus out and it has awning gen set etc.
Does any one have any issue with there converted buses in places like thousand trails. Assuming there painted up nice and clean build.
I'm going to look into what it takes to do a slide out next. If I could slide out and pick up that extra walk around space I think it would still work for me. My roommate has a 40ft alfa see ya rv with 4ft slide outs and it just makes it completely different. Being a single guy I can get away with some small quarters to make it work and to be Able to go out on the road and get a season in it. I really don't want to haul a trailer that is just as long. I can envision cutting the walls from the floor and roof and welding the to a frame work. As well as the open hole that is cut out so that the walls could be pushed a couple feet back to add some floor space on both sides.
Probably run the 4 ways going down the highway, but then i probably should already when i put on the cruise control on and go to the bathroom.
If you could make it look clean and just actually cut the walls out and then build plat forms that were hinged that could be flipped by hand or automated to go from vert to horzt so that you would have a couple two or 4 feet of floor space. for the wall use that canvas they put on semi trucks or marine canvas to create the wall. the have some type of tent box ? that you assembled out to the edge of your new floor space? Its not like it would be new technology pop up tents and awnings are every where. I read some where taht the canvas the semi trucks used was ripp stopped to the point where a knife would not cut it open so the load was safe. But boats have marine canvas and they stay warm and dry using it on cheap boats as well as yachts. any one tried canvas and the wall that is cut out folding down to create a floor to wrap into a room extension Side tent) or open deck with bug netting in some areas. Just spit balling here to try and not buy a trailer. Just that money saved could pay for this project or close to it.
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Old 09-15-2016, 02:40 AM   #6
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A roof raise that can support an engine hoist is asking for a lot of added structure. To have that structure open frame so you can drop the side walls....

I've seen container house designs that have walls that fold out/up and around. Don't think any have actually been built. I don't doubt that you could do it,but it'll close to max GVW.
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Old 09-15-2016, 05:06 AM   #7
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Join Date: Sep 2016
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Chassis: International, 643 transmission
Engine: DT 466ci 250hp, International
Rated Cap: 86 screaming Monsters
I only lift about 90lbs max. With the lift spread over four points I can't imagine it being more load on the roof than a factory grab handle. In fact I saw some chrome grab handles on a bus and they looked like they would make a excellent forward to rear rail to roll on.
I'm not looking to raise the roof. I am going to install a gantry sliding chain lift that will let me lift the engine and slide it up to the front bench engine stand. I do use a hoist but its a scissor hoist that only raises the vehicle 30" i think. Normally it would be for brakes and tires.
We've been sitting around tonight talking about cutting out the side wall of the bus and framing in hole with steel from the floor to the top of the wall just under the roof.
Then build a steel tube wall that is hinged at the floor to fit inside the cutaway. Possibly use a cable on each side to hold this hinged wall level when its laying down as the floor. Depending on how heavy it is maybe small hand cranked boat winch to raise and lower it? The some simple frame work and marine style canvas to snap in place to create walls and roof. Hand rails when its not so hot the air conditioning would not be is use the sides could roll up? An extra 6ft or 12 ft would make it amazing. I see some of the buses with the back cut away fro hauling cars and some with the roofs off as well as just ramp trucks. Stiffening and bracing the shell doesn't seem to me to be a big issue? I'm not a engineer but it fixes my issue in such a way that it may make a bus the ticket on my new transporter.
Of course I'm thinking the same thing in the living quarters with separate door frames. This sounds easier and less money than building tip outs. Plus it might look pretty dam neat all set up. This way I can tow my TOAD as well instead of having to find room in a trailer or leave it home.

Who has cut the most out of there bus and had issues or good luck. Curious to hear about it and see some pictures.

Also I'm not planning on additional flooring unless its fixing the floor that's there. I plan on paining it all white inside and bunch of good lights every where. I don't expect i could add 5k lbs to the shop area. car ways 1650.00 lbs, hoist is about 400.00 I would guess. cutting out and rebuilding the walls and rails should not add more than 250.00lbs.
There will be the wall between the living quarters and shop.
I need to put a ramp in the rear door unless i can find a gate lift that would fold all up back there.
I could have a 20 x 20 work area. This is more like it. shoot some holes in this for me any one? of course were talking about a front engine as long as they come.
Also I wonder if I could have one of the rear shop walls when its lowered down flat have another section of it lower down as ramp to the ground or stairs to get in or out. I kinda have idea formulating for this entry.
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Old 09-15-2016, 12:33 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geo Jeff View Post
We've been sitting around tonight talking about cutting out the side wall of the bus and framing in hole with steel from the floor to the top of the wall just under the roof.
Then build a steel tube wall that is hinged at the floor to fit inside the cutaway. Possibly use a cable on each side to hold this hinged wall level when its laying down as the floor. Depending on how heavy it is maybe small hand cranked boat winch to raise and lower it? The some simple frame work and marine style canvas to snap in place to create walls and roof. Hand rails when its not so hot the air conditioning would not be is use the sides could roll up? An extra 6ft or 12 ft would make it amazing.
Seen something like this on Tiny House Nation TV that's full height of the wall and drops down to make their porch.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Geo Jeff View Post
Who has cut the most out of there bus and had issues or good luck. Curious to hear about it and see some pictures.
Mine's not cut out much except for the reinforced back wall/ramp. Its 7 1/2' x 7 1/2'. I currently has elevated ramps mounted, but I intend to transform my garage (when the car is out) into a screened in man-cave with big screen, surround sound, mini-keg, etc. while the "ramp/door" serves as a porch.






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Old 09-23-2016, 06:18 PM   #9
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Darrington, Wa.
Posts: 304
Year: 1994
Coachwork: Genesis/Am-Tran Tall Roof
Chassis: International, 643 transmission
Engine: DT 466ci 250hp, International
Rated Cap: 86 screaming Monsters
I use to race a 1996 STS street rally. Fast car no brakes after 110 MPH. But who was using the brakes.
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Old 09-24-2016, 11:15 PM   #10
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
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Posts: 304
Year: 1994
Coachwork: Genesis/Am-Tran Tall Roof
Chassis: International, 643 transmission
Engine: DT 466ci 250hp, International
Rated Cap: 86 screaming Monsters
semi trailer

Has any one ever done a semi trailer for a car hauler on school bus? I see there are a lot or trailers out there with those 5500 to 12000lb lift gates.
I'm taking about shortening the bus and setting the trailer right on the frame. Then either blending them together or what ever you need. Living quarters up front hauler in the rear. Or maybe the trailer right to the drivers compartment and you have huge box to build in?

You get 102 inches and a raised roof plus with some mods you could just drive your vehicle up to the rear lift and raise it up and drive in with no ramps. Give yourself 45ft bus maybe a smidgen more? must be fairly close on weight. Probably have to do a epdm roof or coat it with some thing since its flat?

Just a thought. I was just looking at a old trailer for 3k$ and i know the lift alone was worth $12k new. Probably already done i just couldn't find it on google. Easy to cut windows in where you need them.
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