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Old 08-17-2018, 01:04 PM   #1
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Excited and Intimidated

Hi All!

Caroline here in Asheville, NC. My partner and I just bought a school bus on Monday! Specs:
98 Bluebird 36 Passenger
466 diesel
180,000 miles
air brakes
just retired from the school, so in full bus mode
got it for 4800 feeling great about it!

Were planning to begin ripping the seats out Monday and Tuesday of the next week. I got some advice from experienced friends here advising us to leave the floor and walls in tact and build over them.
I am feeling like it could eat up some of our space to do so, but save us a lot of work.
Does anyone have some advice on this ?
All and any is much appreciated!

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Old 08-17-2018, 01:07 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarolineSmiles View Post
Hi All!

Caroline here in Asheville, NC. My partner and I just bought a school bus on Monday! Specs:
98 Bluebird 36 Passenger
466 diesel
180,000 miles
air brakes
just retired from the school, so in full bus mode
got it for 4800 feeling great about it!

Were planning to begin ripping the seats out Monday and Tuesday of the next week. I got some advice from experienced friends here advising us to leave the floor and walls in tact and build over them.
I am feeling like it could eat up some of our space to do so, but save us a lot of work.
Does anyone have some advice on this ?
All and any is much appreciated!
Congratulations Caroline! Welcome to the skoolie family. We are not too far ahead of you on our conversion. We have been making fun little conversion videos with the kids the link is below. May help you with ideas of what to do and what not to do LOL!
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Serenity Bus Project: OUR NEW EBOOK. ITS A HOW-TO GUIDE. PLEASE CHECK IT OUT! --> https://www.serenitybusproject.com/store/p1/So-Your-Dream-Of-Owning-A-Skoolie.html
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Old 08-17-2018, 01:08 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarolineSmiles View Post
Hi All!

Caroline here in Asheville, NC. My partner and I just bought a school bus on Monday! Specs:
98 Bluebird 36 Passenger
466 diesel
180,000 miles
air brakes
just retired from the school, so in full bus mode
got it for 4800 feeling great about it!

Were planning to begin ripping the seats out Monday and Tuesday of the next week. I got some advice from experienced friends here advising us to leave the floor and walls in tact and build over them.
I am feeling like it could eat up some of our space to do so, but save us a lot of work.
Does anyone have some advice on this ?
All and any is much appreciated!
Find out if its geared for 45 mph or if its just limited in the computer.
Most NC buses only do 45mph.
If its just the computer its easy and cheap/free to fix.

As for the interior panels- I say rip em out. That stuff inside is usually pretty gross.
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Old 08-17-2018, 01:32 PM   #4
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Gutting the walls and ceiling give you an opportunity to add more and better insulation, an extremely important factor if you plan on spending period of time in it. No one wants to lose headroom.
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Old 08-17-2018, 01:34 PM   #5
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Congratulations Caroline! Welcome to the skoolie family. We are not too far ahead of you on our conversion. We have been making fun little conversion videos with the kids the link is below. May help you with ideas of what to do and what not to do LOL!
Did you get my PM?
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Old 08-17-2018, 01:37 PM   #6
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Welcome!!!

Agreed, I would rip out the panels and the gross insulation and replace it all with good stuff. Plus, you get money for recycling it. May not be much, but any bit helps in a conversion!
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Old 08-17-2018, 01:42 PM   #7
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The removal of the floor is to remove the rust that is there, and there will be rust. Now is the time to repair and do preventive maintenance so your builds dollars are not wasted when it all falls through the floor.
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Old 08-17-2018, 05:25 PM   #8
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Did you get my PM?
As a new member with only 1 post, that user might not be able to send PMs yet. I don't exactly remember the new-user restrictions anymore..
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Old 08-19-2018, 06:20 PM   #9
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Thank you!
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Old 08-19-2018, 06:31 PM   #10
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As a new member with only 1 post, that user might not be able to send PMs yet. I don't exactly remember the new-user restrictions anymore..
He's not new, 100+ posts. He's been posting about selling insurance in the Tn/Ga area. Sent him a request for a quote after he said he could help.
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Old 08-19-2018, 07:14 PM   #11
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I would definitely recommend pulling the floor out and rebuilding that - as for the walls - I pulled one side and not the other - as the insulation there and in the ceiling was adequate in my 2000 International / BlueBird. On that note - some will disagree with this and some will agree - others will be indifferent.
I have been living full time since Oct - but have moved with weather (florida / Georgia in the winter - and Montana in the summer) - I have not seen it get much lower than 20 degrees or higher than about 96 degrees. The heat is worse. But, I have no complaints.
Search for opinions from people who are living in their bus you will find that the practical experience that they share is far more practical than the regurgitation of people who have yet to live or convert fully a bus.
Note: There will be a difference in living full time in a bus - in one location, traveling in a bus full time, and using a bus as a part-time motorhome.
if I was to go back - I would probably better insulate my floor. The side walls, maybe - the ceiling, I would still leave as is.
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Old 08-19-2018, 07:15 PM   #12
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Apologies - I looked at the stats for the original poster; didn't realize you were referring to another commenter on the thread!
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Old 08-19-2018, 07:47 PM   #13
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I don't live in a bus or wish to. But fiberglass sandwiched between steel isn't much for insulation.
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Old 08-20-2018, 03:43 PM   #14
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Did you get my PM?
Yes.. I responded. Did you see my response?
__________________
Note: I am no longer selling skoolie insurance. I sold my agency and am traveling N. America full time with my family. Wish us luck!
Serenity Bus Project: OUR NEW EBOOK. ITS A HOW-TO GUIDE. PLEASE CHECK IT OUT! --> https://www.serenitybusproject.com/store/p1/So-Your-Dream-Of-Owning-A-Skoolie.html
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Old 08-20-2018, 04:56 PM   #15
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Yes.. I responded. Did you see my response?
I have no PM's from you.
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Old 08-25-2018, 04:19 PM   #16
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If this is going to be a live in scenario then I would do everything needed to make it not only more insulated but to be able to fix any problems the inner walls can hide whether rust or a wire that been rubbing that could give you fits down the road. I'm one day away from taking all the walls off the inside, ceiling included and I feel it's well worth the effort. I can screw my studs in to the existing framework and have stubs to nail or screw to and lose very very little space in the bus. I spray penetration oil on all the screws I planned on taking out... Just a tiny tiny squirt and let it sit over night and I only had to drill out maybe 4 screw total of the hundreds I've taken out. 2 or 3 different sized pry bars made a huge difference and a square bit that fits right makes it easier. The insulation in mine is not fiberglass rather this cotton like stuff. Well worth upgrading.
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Old 08-25-2018, 07:06 PM   #17
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Hey! Long shot, but I know a Caroline in Asheville. Do you work in a bookstore? Have a sister Julie?



BTW as I am typing this, I'm sitting in Pack Square Park listening to a Shindig on the Green!
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Old 08-26-2018, 05:51 PM   #18
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If I was making a camper for warm weather use I wouldn't touch the walls or roof get a good heat source and you can make it in Ashville for months in a row just like it is. if you have the headroom maby but something in the floor. If your making a tiny house go for the full strip out . your going to cover half or more of the walls with cabinets anyway. If you take out all the windows it will look like any factory camper. All of the super builds add weight. every pound you add will cost you in drivability. Just my opinion. I built a 64 GMC bluebirdout and lived 8 straight years in it Coast to coast.
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