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Old 11-14-2019, 11:32 AM   #1
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Hello all, this is my first post though I've been reading the site and living in my 1994 international 3800 powered by a t444e for about five months. I'm loving it and am finding that I am learning more on a day to day basis than I ever have. I have been developing a new set of credos to live by, #1: Don't drive on grass
The Century Falcon Blue has 100000 miles on it and recently made our first long trip of 500+ miles from Ithaca NY to Charleston WV without incident, although there is a leak in the rear differential that needs to be addressed. Maybe someone can tell me how concerned I should be about this.
The reason I finally decided to post is that there are a few mechanical items that I can find no information about. The first is a valve by the drivers seat that leaks a fluid that seems to be anti-freeze, I don't know what the hell it's there for. The other is the heater by the drivers seat, it doesn't work and I freeze my butt off while driving. I'm going to try to fix it but barely know where to begin. I'm hoping it's a bad belt but, again, I have no clue.
If anyone knows a lot about these vehicles feel free to tell me whatever you wish, I aim to learn as much as possible about my new home.

Thank you all,
-Sid-
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Old 11-14-2019, 12:57 PM   #2
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Your heaters run off the engine coolant to provide the heat, that valve is a shut off for it. If the valve is leaking then you will have to replace it.
A leaking diff will become a problem once enough of the lube is lost and it will lead to you having to rebuild or swap out the rear end which will be costly and a major pain to deal with. Where is the leak at exactly? I'd deal with it before going for another long haul. Mine is too and I'm about to tackle it and the trans output shaft seal.
Same with the valve leaking, you better deal with it before you run dry on coolant, that's a easy way to ruin your 7.3 fast. You don't have heat because it's probably closed and water isn't making it past the valve.
WElcome to the community!
Fill out your info in the CP so we know what all you have in case you have other questions, making it easier to answer you.
I know a good deal about 7.3's/T444Es, I'll be happy to help answer questions you may have.
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Old 11-14-2019, 01:15 PM   #3
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Thanks man, great info! I assume that means that the heater will work if the valve is opened? It doesn't leak very much at all, in fact I've only seen a spot once. I can't tell exactly where the leak in the differential is but it drips a small amount off of the bottom after it's been moving, then it stops. I was panning on draining and replacing the gear oil while I'm here and was wondering if it's safe to use stop leak.
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Old 11-14-2019, 01:56 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sid_Glenn View Post
Thanks man, great info! I assume that means that the heater will work if the valve is opened? It doesn't leak very much at all, in fact I've only seen a spot once. I can't tell exactly where the leak in the differential is but it drips a small amount off of the bottom after it's been moving, then it stops. I was panning on draining and replacing the gear oil while I'm here and was wondering if it's safe to use stop leak.
The heater may work if the valve is opened, it may also be a more aggressive leak and that's why it is shut off. Open it and see. Fill out your profile.
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Old 11-14-2019, 02:29 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sid_Glenn View Post
...I have been developing a new set of credos to live by, #1: Don't drive on grass...
Good advice. Welcome.

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Old 11-14-2019, 03:09 PM   #6
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The comment above regarding taking care of the differential immediately is good advice.

A had a wheel bearing pop the wheel bearing cap off on my travel trailer a couple of months ago.

We had overnighted on a parking lot and when I did my pretrip I noticed that one of the wheel bearings was missing. I looked it over and the lube visible looked fine. No noticeable signs of heat. I decided to let it be as my destination for the day was close to my favorite mechanic. I got on the road and made it about seven miles when the trailer shed that wheel. When the backing plate hit the pavement it tore one side of axle from the leaf spring.

Total damages.. $2500

If I had taken the time to service it before getting on the highway the bill would have been closer to $150. Lesson learned.

If
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Old 11-14-2019, 09:07 PM   #7
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Wow, yes, will do.
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Old 11-16-2019, 03:20 AM   #8
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You say the differential leaks a little after being run for a while. I am not saying this is the problem, but it *could* be fluid accumulaing in the vent at the top of the differential then dripping down. Follow the drip line, it will tell you where it starts. If there is too much crud on the differential, clean it then drive it enough to cause it to leak ... then go under and look.
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Old 11-16-2019, 04:07 PM   #9
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Clean it off, I didn't think of that. Thanks!
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Old 11-16-2019, 04:15 PM   #10
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Clean it off, I didn't think of that. Thanks!
Clean it off and then sprinkle it with flour or other powder, the leak will show it's path to exit more easily.
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Old 11-16-2019, 04:35 PM   #11
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Make sure the axle vent isn't plugged up. As you drive the temp of the oil rises and it expands. Normally, the vent allows air to escape the axle to relieve the pressure created by the expanding oil but if the vent is plugged the unvented pressure can force the pinion seal to leak.
Jack
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Old 11-16-2019, 09:18 PM   #12
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All good advice above on the rear leak.

Before you drive it any further though, check it to ensure there's still oil in it.
If it leaks but still has enough oil in it to keep things cooled and slippery inside, it likely won't leave you stranded on the roadside.

If you run it "dry", all bets are off on getting to your destination.

Definitely get it fixed before a cross country trip...
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Old 11-17-2019, 01:10 PM   #13
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My post above should have read "missing wheel bearing cap ". I


Another thing that you don't want to be a surprise is your towing coverage. I thought that I was covered. Turns out the truck, which did not need towing was covered but the travel trailer was not. $541 later we were towed less than 10 miles..
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Old 11-17-2019, 01:15 PM   #14
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Carpenter uses a Parallel flow heating system for that Bergstrom Box... if you removed your rear heater and looped the line instead of blocking it you may find you wont get any circulation from your driver heater when that valve is opened... its a toss up.. Carpenter heater cores are known to leak... when you open the valve and drive pay attention to any coolant you may drip or smell while driving...



thats a standard style water valve like in a home.. a 3/4" in a carpenter.. you can likely pull the nut (lose a lot of coolant).. abnd replace the seals in it if it leaks bad.. sometimes just cycling it open and closed a few times wets the seal and keeps it from leaking around the shaft..


-Christopher
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Old 11-17-2019, 04:22 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PNW_Steve View Post
My post above should have read "missing wheel bearing cap ". I


Another thing that you don't want to be a surprise is your towing coverage. I thought that I was covered. Turns out the truck, which did not need towing was covered but the travel trailer was not. $541 later we were towed less than 10 miles..
It's ALWAYS best to read your terms and conditions. I use to work in a call center dispatching roadside, just about noone ever read what they were paying for. We did light to heavy duty services including ATT roadside, so many people though $3 a month meant they didn't have to pay squat, it's sad really. Same as when I worked in BOA credit card claims and had to explain the terms to people all the time tht just clicked the box "i agree" to get screwed over for not taking a few mins to read...
Man 10 mile trailer tow insane puke. They did that because your plan paid the truck less than they normally chagre for the service so they wanted to gouge you to make up for the cheaper rate your motor club negotiated for the tow, seen it plenty.
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