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Old 04-19-2016, 12:20 PM   #11
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Hmmm..... I've wondered about that. There's always been a lot of talk here about "I'm not going to insulate my floor; I don't want to lose the headroom. I'm going to put some insulation on the underside" but I've never heard or seen anyone follow through on that. Is this a possible reason that technique isn't widely used?
I have wondered about this same thing!!
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Old 04-19-2016, 12:32 PM   #12
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Hmmm..... I've wondered about that. There's always been a lot of talk here about "I'm not going to insulate my floor; I don't want to lose the headroom. I'm going to put some insulation on the underside" but I've never heard or seen anyone follow through on that. Is this a possible reason that technique isn't widely used?
I've thought/wondered the same thing, too.
Guess we aren't the only ones!
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Old 04-19-2016, 01:05 PM   #13
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I'm planning to insulate under the floor. This bus has a light brown linoleum instead of black rubber mats, not to mention L-track the full length of the bus. I want the L-track to remain and the other flooring seems ok to me. I do however get cold feet frequently. Additionally if I was in a state that needs air conditioning I'd think it would be advantageous to have the floor insulated.

My guess is many people back out of insulating from underneath because of the difficulty and mess. Since the home spray kits are so expensive, I'm thinking I can get a professional insulator to spray the underside of the floor with several coats and have the walls and ceilings sprayed inside for about the price of one home spray kit. Someone that is doing that spray foam professionally is going to be able to do that at a much lower expense and probably a better job than I would/could do.
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Old 04-19-2016, 01:14 PM   #14
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do most busses have plywood floors, or are they just metal with the rubber matting over it?
-Christopher
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Old 04-19-2016, 02:58 PM   #15
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most school bus will be steel floor with plywood and then rubber, OR steel with rubber, OR steel with marine plywood and then rubber...depends on original local and budget

the church bus/shuttle vary by builder (i dont think any are steel floored) take last sentence with grain of salt, most I have seen have been ply wood on a metal skeleton or fiberglass on a metal skeleton
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Old 04-19-2016, 05:44 PM   #16
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Welcome-nice shortie!
Plywood floors in mine. And I'm not worried about insulation-its a summer toyhauler.
As was said,look around your wheel arches-and be suspisious about of spray foam shot everywhere.
I have 4:11's-65mph is 2500 rpm. I'm betting yours is the same.
The tranny is a POS-but its what you got. Only tranny available behind the 7.3 in the Ford chassis.
I tow a trailer about the same weight as your car-don't even know its back there.
And now the BUT. But you MUST get an EGT (exhaust gas temp.) gauge if you are going to tow. The van has no intercooler. You CAN get things hot enough to toast an engine. I did. With the rebuilt engine, I put a gauge in. For the most part, it will stay safe under 1200-but you have to watch how much throttle you use on a long hill.
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Old 04-19-2016, 10:04 PM   #17
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Welcome-nice shortie!
Plywood floors in mine. And I'm not worried about insulation-its a summer toyhauler.
As was said,look around your wheel arches-and be suspisious about of spray foam shot everywhere.
I have 4:11's-65mph is 2500 rpm. I'm betting yours is the same.
The tranny is a POS-but its what you got. Only tranny available behind the 7.3 in the Ford chassis.
I tow a trailer about the same weight as your car-don't even know its back there.
And now the BUT. But you MUST get an EGT (exhaust gas temp.) gauge if you are going to tow. The van has no intercooler. You CAN get things hot enough to toast an engine. I did. With the rebuilt engine, I put a gauge in. For the most part, it will stay safe under 1200-but you have to watch how much throttle you use on a long hill.
where is the best place to locate the EGT sender? im thinking since I'll likely be running flat out much of the time on the highway that I should know my temp...

-Christopher
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Old 04-19-2016, 10:09 PM   #18
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There are a number of things to take into consideration. There is some pretty good info here...

EGT Tech Notes All EGT Tech Notes
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Old 04-19-2016, 10:31 PM   #19
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where is the best place to locate the EGT sender? im thinking since I'll likely be running flat out much of the time on the highway that I should know my temp...

-Christopher
I have mine tapped into the exhaust manifold-just before it goes into the up-pipe --pre turbo.
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Old 04-20-2016, 09:52 AM   #20
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Oh wow!

Lookie how this thread took off while I drove the 8 hour RT to go look at the bus!

We did buy it. Around here (within a 6hr radius), it has been the best buy we've seen so far.

CONS: It does have a fiberglass body. It does have soft spots in the back rear where the bed will go. And it does have a soft lower step. It's been spray painted black, and has what my kiddo calls "unappropriate" stickers all over it. A few turn signal covers need replaced and little cosmetic things like that. Needs cab AC additive (has new compressor).

PROS: Great engine. The guy driving it was a pro dirt bike racer who traveled in this bus with his mechanic. The engine looked great and sounded great. It has brand new tires. Tranny shifted smoothly. Newer muffler, tune-up, all new belts and a bunch of other stuff. No oil leaks. With as dirty as the rest of it was, the engine looked great. Not that recently detailed look but definitely looked good.

We looked at it from the aspect of - if we got it home and found more problems or that it was more time/money than we could tackle, could we sell it for the same cost or more. Answer was a definite yes, especially once cleaned up.

They didn't do a horrible job on the matte black spray paint but it's not great. Good thing I have a bit of an artistic streak...I am seriously considering painting a giant mural all over it if we decide to keep it.

Drove it home, 4.5 hour drive. It caps out at 80mph, according to my husband. We do need back mud flaps, he flung every stone in the road at me, I do believe. I have a few nice new dings in my windshield. When I thought I was far enough away from him, he'd prove me wrong.

My husband works at a metal manufacturing place and often can get scrap sheet metal for very cheap. I'm hoping to get some to shore up the weak spots and the steps. they may even pre-drill them for us!

Just starting a basic list of things to get/do. Simple first and then we'll get more complicated next year.
1) Roof vents? Are these recommended? Other options?
2) Either a dinette or 2 swivel chairs with lap belts so passengers can wear a seat belt.
3) Some kind of air conditioning for back. Exploring options now.
4) We're thinking of building a bunk bed type thing in the back. Twin on top, queen underneath to conserve space.
5) Necessary cosmetic, lights, windows/privacy, etc
6) Solar/batteries


Steps we're trying to take now is basics for campground hookups. Then, as we have time, money, and have researched all options, I would definitely like to figure out more off-grid options.
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