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Old 04-20-2016, 09:37 AM   #21
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: The Valley - Arizona
Posts: 644
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freight-shaker (Freightliner)
Engine: Cat 3126b 250 HP
Rated Cap: Only 1 seat
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Originally Posted by Robin97396 View Post
My guess is many people back out of insulating from underneath because of the difficulty and mess..

Well on my ER, if I insulated the undercarriage, I'd be covering up all my wires, shifter linkage, air lines, not to mention the undercarriage storage would have to get it twice, once in and once out. plus, if I put a mini split HP system on it, I'd have to make room for the parts under there as well.

I'll stick with a 10 or 12 inch roof raise, and put thermal barrier bubble sheets under my ply. I won't lose enough height to worry about.

BTW, I like your ride Kim, As far as installing roof vents, if you just want to vacate the heat from higher upinside, why not install a small duct with vents and a fan out the side or back to draw the heat out? maybe a 4" ducting with a 12 v computer fan?? (Just an idea...)

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Old 04-20-2016, 09:41 AM   #22
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
I'm with you Doc. I avoid "holes in the roof" at almost any cost. As noted. a small computer fan pumping warm air from the roof down and out will be as much and possibly more effective than just a passive vent...with no leaks.
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Old 04-20-2016, 09:47 AM   #23
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: The Valley - Arizona
Posts: 644
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freight-shaker (Freightliner)
Engine: Cat 3126b 250 HP
Rated Cap: Only 1 seat
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I'm with you Doc. I avoid "holes in the roof" at almost any cost. As noted. a small computer fan pumping warm air from the roof down and out will be as much and possibly more effective than just a passive vent...with no leaks.
Just basic thermal transfer. If air moves constantly, it doesn't have enough time to get hot unlike stagnant air, which heats up rather quickly in a metal can. A small fan with say a dryer vent type cover where it opens when air blows through and closes when it isn't would be a great idea. Heck, I may put something like that on the Hog!
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Old 04-20-2016, 09:56 AM   #24
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Southern Indiana
Posts: 18
Year: 1993
Chassis: Ford E350
Engine: 7.3L Diesel
Rated Cap: Whatever I make it. :D
I do like that idea a lot better than cutting into the roof!! If I was going to cut into the roof, I would do something like a full sunroof!


We did discover that they left the roof white, it's only painted black up just beyond the lip.


I'm half considering painting a forest mural on it:
https://www.pinterest.com/pin/466896686349219902/ like this.
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Old 04-20-2016, 09:59 AM   #25
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Southern Indiana
Posts: 18
Year: 1993
Chassis: Ford E350
Engine: 7.3L Diesel
Rated Cap: Whatever I make it. :D
Right now it kind of looks like a "prison van".
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Old 04-20-2016, 11:30 AM   #26
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Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Willamina, Oregon
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Coachwork: 97 Bluebird TC1000 5.9
So, are you looking for some jail type bars to put on the windows to complete the look? I'm wondering why there is a big chrome rear bumper on that stealthy van.
Your predecessors were obviously stealth campers. Not necessarily and easy task in a bus.

A vent on the rear wall of the bus would cause air to basically get sucked out while traveling from the low pressure area behind the bus. It's a problem when stove pipes vent into a low pressure area, but that same low pressure action would draw hot air out the back of the bus while traveling during the summer even without a fan. That would be an all together different problem during the winter if you weren't able to block the vent.

I like the way you guys are doing your build. Many people here have been working on their buses for a number of years and it's a little depressing to see an advanced build at times. Inspiring, but depressing.
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Old 04-20-2016, 11:50 AM   #27
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: The Valley - Arizona
Posts: 644
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freight-shaker (Freightliner)
Engine: Cat 3126b 250 HP
Rated Cap: Only 1 seat
Quote:
Originally Posted by Robin97396 View Post
So, are you looking for some jail type bars to put on the windows to complete the look? I'm wondering why there is a big chrome rear bumper on that stealthy van.
Your predecessors were obviously stealth campers. Not necessarily and easy task in a bus.

A vent on the rear wall of the bus would cause air to basically get sucked out while traveling from the low pressure area behind the bus. It's a problem when stove pipes vent into a low pressure area, but that same low pressure action would draw hot air out the back of the bus while traveling during the summer even without a fan. That would be an all together different problem during the winter if you weren't able to block the vent.

I like the way you guys are doing your build. Many people here have been working on their buses for a number of years and it's a little depressing to see an advanced build at times. Inspiring, but depressing.


No sucking of air.......
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Old 04-20-2016, 12:07 PM   #28
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Southern Indiana
Posts: 18
Year: 1993
Chassis: Ford E350
Engine: 7.3L Diesel
Rated Cap: Whatever I make it. :D
We haven't done anything yet. I've been scraping nudey stickers off the windows today.

I see all these builds and wonder how we could do that. But I am fine with it cleaned up, windows scraped and just a couple easy beginner mods.

Original owner had 500k worth of racing dirt bikes in it as he traveled. He wanted to be as obscure as possible.
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Old 04-20-2016, 12:47 PM   #29
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Coachwork: 97 Bluebird TC1000 5.9
I'm not sure what I'd use to close the vent. The duct with the damper isn't very air tight if you plan on using that bus during the winters at all. At this point the damper idea is good because I don't have anything better. I'm thinking of something like a black or grey tank dump valve that could be closed air tight when needed or even adjusted for minimal air flow.

For lack of something better I've been closing the top hatch on a wooden spoon for minimal ventilation during the freezing months.
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