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Old 04-19-2016, 07:13 AM   #1
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Southern Indiana
Posts: 18
Year: 1993
Chassis: Ford E350
Engine: 7.3L Diesel
Rated Cap: Whatever I make it. :D
Hello....I'm a noob and I think I may be buying a bus...

Just started down this schoolie venture.

We're off to look at a 93 shuttle bus with the 7.3 Diesel engine. Ford E350 chassis with the tow package.


PROS:
Exterior already done and painted.
No seats inside except one side bench.
2 captain chairs in front, stairs behind main cab.
$3000 with 150k miles.
Tow package - so maybe can tow our little Elantra?

CONS:
No roof AC. Has anyone put one of those split AC ductless systems in their bus? It's a heater too. Of course it forces me to be dependent on a campground plug though. With that solid metal roof I am hesitant to cut into it for a RV AC!
I saw on one forum possible transmission issues with that engine. Does anyone know?
Good news is that we have a friend who is a diesel mechanic that won't bleed us dry with repairs if necessary.

We're planning to take it from KY to Seattle this fall. Can this shuttle pull those hills without us pulling our hair out?


So glad to be a part of this group!
Thanks in advance!!

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Old 04-19-2016, 07:45 AM   #2
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Cuyahoga Falls Ohio
Posts: 592
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Startrans
Chassis: Ford e-350 single wheel
Engine: 5.4 litre
Rated Cap: 12
Towing an Elantra should be no sweat with that drivetrain. I own a 1997 shuttle bus with 5.4 litre gas engine. It tows my 18' car trailer with a full size pick up truck on it without too much trouble.
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Old 04-19-2016, 07:51 AM   #3
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Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Cuyahoga Falls Ohio
Posts: 592
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Startrans
Chassis: Ford e-350 single wheel
Engine: 5.4 litre
Rated Cap: 12
Make sure that shuttle bus has highway gears and will do at least 75 mph. Don't even consider an airport shuttle unless you want to regear the rearend. Take some pictures if possible and post them for us to drool over. By stairs behind the cab, I assume you mean that it still has a passenger door? That is a pretty rare setup. My bus is like that and it works great as a camper.
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Old 04-19-2016, 08:10 AM   #4
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Southern Indiana
Posts: 18
Year: 1993
Chassis: Ford E350
Engine: 7.3L Diesel
Rated Cap: Whatever I make it. :D
Thanks for the suggestions!
It's a 28'. What kind of mileage does your 18' get?
The current owner said he was a pro dirt bike racer and used it as his hotel for races. I kind of doubt that he'd let it go slow but I'll definitely as that question!


I also figure if we do get it, that I'll have to eventually paint the top a reflective white UV so we don't bake in it.

Kim I cleaned this up, Bansil
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Old 04-19-2016, 08:17 AM   #5
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Southern Indiana
Posts: 18
Year: 1993
Chassis: Ford E350
Engine: 7.3L Diesel
Rated Cap: Whatever I make it. :D
My message disappeared!

I'll definitely ask about those things. Waiting for him to wake up and respond so I can call him. Thanks!!

Here's the pics:




Kim IM sent
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Old 04-19-2016, 09:27 AM   #6
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Southern Indiana
Posts: 18
Year: 1993
Chassis: Ford E350
Engine: 7.3L Diesel
Rated Cap: Whatever I make it. :D
Thank you Bansil! I appreciate it!
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Old 04-19-2016, 09:34 AM   #7
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Location: MNT CITY TN
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Your welcome, I bet that thing gets hot in the summer sun
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Old 04-19-2016, 09:37 AM   #8
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Southern Indiana
Posts: 18
Year: 1993
Chassis: Ford E350
Engine: 7.3L Diesel
Rated Cap: Whatever I make it. :D
I totally agree. It'd be an oven. So I figure I'd paint the top the UV reflective white to help with that. Maybe echo a white pinstripe on the sides. Not sure yet. We had plans to go look at it today but suddenly the guy isn't returning my texts and didn't answer my call. I'm hoping he just doesn't see it not that it's falling through like the other dozen RVs/buses I've looked at.
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Old 04-19-2016, 09:58 AM   #9
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my concerns with the fiberglass shuttles involves the floors and whelwell areas, make sure to look under bus and try to see if corners and areas near walls flex or crack when stepped on

If underside is insulated with spray foam beware of possible rust issues from condensation
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Old 04-19-2016, 10:52 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bansil View Post
If underside is insulated with spray foam beware of possible rust issues from condensation
Hmmm..... I've wondered about that. There's always been a lot of talk here about "I'm not going to insulate my floor; I don't want to lose the headroom. I'm going to put some insulation on the underside" but I've never heard or seen anyone follow through on that. Is this a possible reason that technique isn't widely used?
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Old 04-19-2016, 11:20 AM   #11
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Posts: 57
Year: 1999
Chassis: Thomas
Engine: Cat 3126 7.2 / Allison AT545
Rated Cap: 77 Passenger
Quote:
Originally Posted by dan-fox View Post
Hmmm..... I've wondered about that. There's always been a lot of talk here about "I'm not going to insulate my floor; I don't want to lose the headroom. I'm going to put some insulation on the underside" but I've never heard or seen anyone follow through on that. Is this a possible reason that technique isn't widely used?
I have wondered about this same thing!!
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Old 04-19-2016, 11:32 AM   #12
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by dan-fox View Post
Hmmm..... I've wondered about that. There's always been a lot of talk here about "I'm not going to insulate my floor; I don't want to lose the headroom. I'm going to put some insulation on the underside" but I've never heard or seen anyone follow through on that. Is this a possible reason that technique isn't widely used?
I've thought/wondered the same thing, too.
Guess we aren't the only ones!
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Old 04-19-2016, 12:05 PM   #13
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Location: Willamina, Oregon
Posts: 6,409
Coachwork: 97 Bluebird TC1000 5.9
I'm planning to insulate under the floor. This bus has a light brown linoleum instead of black rubber mats, not to mention L-track the full length of the bus. I want the L-track to remain and the other flooring seems ok to me. I do however get cold feet frequently. Additionally if I was in a state that needs air conditioning I'd think it would be advantageous to have the floor insulated.

My guess is many people back out of insulating from underneath because of the difficulty and mess. Since the home spray kits are so expensive, I'm thinking I can get a professional insulator to spray the underside of the floor with several coats and have the walls and ceilings sprayed inside for about the price of one home spray kit. Someone that is doing that spray foam professionally is going to be able to do that at a much lower expense and probably a better job than I would/could do.
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Old 04-19-2016, 12:14 PM   #14
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,751
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
do most busses have plywood floors, or are they just metal with the rubber matting over it?
-Christopher
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Old 04-19-2016, 01:58 PM   #15
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Location: MNT CITY TN
Posts: 5,158
most school bus will be steel floor with plywood and then rubber, OR steel with rubber, OR steel with marine plywood and then rubber...depends on original local and budget

the church bus/shuttle vary by builder (i dont think any are steel floored) take last sentence with grain of salt, most I have seen have been ply wood on a metal skeleton or fiberglass on a metal skeleton
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Old 04-19-2016, 04:44 PM   #16
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Location: Moodus, Ct.
Posts: 1,062
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Champion
Chassis: Ford e-450
Engine: 7.3 Powerstroke
Rated Cap: 14
Welcome-nice shortie!
Plywood floors in mine. And I'm not worried about insulation-its a summer toyhauler.
As was said,look around your wheel arches-and be suspisious about of spray foam shot everywhere.
I have 4:11's-65mph is 2500 rpm. I'm betting yours is the same.
The tranny is a POS-but its what you got. Only tranny available behind the 7.3 in the Ford chassis.
I tow a trailer about the same weight as your car-don't even know its back there.
And now the BUT. But you MUST get an EGT (exhaust gas temp.) gauge if you are going to tow. The van has no intercooler. You CAN get things hot enough to toast an engine. I did. With the rebuilt engine, I put a gauge in. For the most part, it will stay safe under 1200-but you have to watch how much throttle you use on a long hill.
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Old 04-19-2016, 09:04 PM   #17
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,751
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
Quote:
Originally Posted by sdwarf36 View Post
Welcome-nice shortie!
Plywood floors in mine. And I'm not worried about insulation-its a summer toyhauler.
As was said,look around your wheel arches-and be suspisious about of spray foam shot everywhere.
I have 4:11's-65mph is 2500 rpm. I'm betting yours is the same.
The tranny is a POS-but its what you got. Only tranny available behind the 7.3 in the Ford chassis.
I tow a trailer about the same weight as your car-don't even know its back there.
And now the BUT. But you MUST get an EGT (exhaust gas temp.) gauge if you are going to tow. The van has no intercooler. You CAN get things hot enough to toast an engine. I did. With the rebuilt engine, I put a gauge in. For the most part, it will stay safe under 1200-but you have to watch how much throttle you use on a long hill.
where is the best place to locate the EGT sender? im thinking since I'll likely be running flat out much of the time on the highway that I should know my temp...

-Christopher
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Old 04-19-2016, 09:09 PM   #18
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Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
There are a number of things to take into consideration. There is some pretty good info here...

EGT Tech Notes All EGT Tech Notes
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Old 04-19-2016, 09:31 PM   #19
Bus Crazy
 
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Moodus, Ct.
Posts: 1,062
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Champion
Chassis: Ford e-450
Engine: 7.3 Powerstroke
Rated Cap: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
where is the best place to locate the EGT sender? im thinking since I'll likely be running flat out much of the time on the highway that I should know my temp...

-Christopher
I have mine tapped into the exhaust manifold-just before it goes into the up-pipe --pre turbo.
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Old 04-20-2016, 08:52 AM   #20
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Southern Indiana
Posts: 18
Year: 1993
Chassis: Ford E350
Engine: 7.3L Diesel
Rated Cap: Whatever I make it. :D
Oh wow!

Lookie how this thread took off while I drove the 8 hour RT to go look at the bus!

We did buy it. Around here (within a 6hr radius), it has been the best buy we've seen so far.

CONS: It does have a fiberglass body. It does have soft spots in the back rear where the bed will go. And it does have a soft lower step. It's been spray painted black, and has what my kiddo calls "unappropriate" stickers all over it. A few turn signal covers need replaced and little cosmetic things like that. Needs cab AC additive (has new compressor).

PROS: Great engine. The guy driving it was a pro dirt bike racer who traveled in this bus with his mechanic. The engine looked great and sounded great. It has brand new tires. Tranny shifted smoothly. Newer muffler, tune-up, all new belts and a bunch of other stuff. No oil leaks. With as dirty as the rest of it was, the engine looked great. Not that recently detailed look but definitely looked good.

We looked at it from the aspect of - if we got it home and found more problems or that it was more time/money than we could tackle, could we sell it for the same cost or more. Answer was a definite yes, especially once cleaned up.

They didn't do a horrible job on the matte black spray paint but it's not great. Good thing I have a bit of an artistic streak...I am seriously considering painting a giant mural all over it if we decide to keep it.

Drove it home, 4.5 hour drive. It caps out at 80mph, according to my husband. We do need back mud flaps, he flung every stone in the road at me, I do believe. I have a few nice new dings in my windshield. When I thought I was far enough away from him, he'd prove me wrong.

My husband works at a metal manufacturing place and often can get scrap sheet metal for very cheap. I'm hoping to get some to shore up the weak spots and the steps. they may even pre-drill them for us!

Just starting a basic list of things to get/do. Simple first and then we'll get more complicated next year.
1) Roof vents? Are these recommended? Other options?
2) Either a dinette or 2 swivel chairs with lap belts so passengers can wear a seat belt.
3) Some kind of air conditioning for back. Exploring options now.
4) We're thinking of building a bunk bed type thing in the back. Twin on top, queen underneath to conserve space.
5) Necessary cosmetic, lights, windows/privacy, etc
6) Solar/batteries


Steps we're trying to take now is basics for campground hookups. Then, as we have time, money, and have researched all options, I would definitely like to figure out more off-grid options.
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