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Old 11-02-2016, 05:48 PM   #1
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Proud new owner of a 1972 Gillig

Hey everyone! Long time listener, first time caller. I am really thankful for this forum already because I would be more lost than I already am. The amount of knowledge here is staggering and most appreciated

I just recently picked up a 1972 Gillig (that was mentioned earlier this year to be for sale). It is already converted, but just a touch outdated. There are many many things I would like to do to it, so many I'm not even sure which way I'll go with it. I might completely gut and redo the interior to something more my style, or I might just make a few tweaks here and there as it suits my purpose.

I intend to live in it for as long as I can. As of now I'm in Texas, but plan to eventually make my way to Colorado. For that I imagine I'll need to gut it, insulate it, and probably update the wiring at a bare minimum (maybe split unit AC/Heat?). I don't need to rely on off-grid power for more than a few days, though the massive diesel generator has that covered. Short term, I'm leaving everything as is and feeling it out.

Some Specs-
Engine- Cummins 335
Transmission- fuller 10 split
Generator- yuuuuge diesel that is louder than my 7.3 powerstroke
Live Tandem Axle
Broken Dometic fridge (I hear this is their natural state)
Broken washer/dryer
tankless water heater (works great!)
Sleeps 10

I tried to attach pics to no avail
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Old 11-02-2016, 06:12 PM   #2
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I love the transits. Can't wait to see pics/how you update it!

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Old 11-02-2016, 06:21 PM   #3
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Glad you made it here!
Host your pics at a hosting site like photobucket, then post them here.
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Old 11-02-2016, 08:28 PM   #4
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Year: 1975
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Engine: Cat 3208t/10 speed transmission
You got a good one!
Enjoy!
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Old 11-02-2016, 09:28 PM   #5
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Thanks everyone! Here are a few pics









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Old 11-02-2016, 09:57 PM   #6
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Nice Score!
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Old 11-02-2016, 10:01 PM   #7
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Join Date: May 2015
Location: Oklahoma aka "God's blind spot"
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Year: 1989
Coachwork: 1853FC International/Navistar
Chassis: 35' Retired Air Force Ambulance
Engine: DT466, MT643
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Green with envy

Swiping kitchen cabinet ideas
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Old 11-02-2016, 11:05 PM   #8
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Location: Richmond Virginia
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Year: 1984
Engine: 366 Big block Chevy! :) w/ Stick shift
Welcome!

Wow that's a bus! Beautiful. Oh and manual stick shift? sweeet!
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Old 11-03-2016, 01:17 AM   #9
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I am glad that bus has found a new home. It looks like you will be able to have a lot of adventures with that bus.

A couple of things you might need to know if you don't know about already.

First, if there isn't a pyrometer you need to install one. The 335 was a great engine with a lot of go to it. But, like all big Cummins, you can't get them very hot or you will burn a piston. Unlike a Detroit 2-cycle diesel that because of the design can't get too hot a Cummins will get hot very quickly on a good grade. I am referring to the exhaust temperature and not the coolant temperature. I had a Crown 10-wheeler with the small cam 262 with an Allison. I never saw the coolant temp ever get close to hot. But I saw the pyrometer get into the danger zone relatively easy if I kept my foot on the throttle while climbing a grade.

Second, I see on the left panel below the window a couple of air controls. I would imagine one is for the axle interlock and the other one most likely a brake limiting control. The axle interlock will make the front and rear drive axles turn at the same speed. You can still get stuck on soft or slick surfaces but it isn't as likely as if you had a drive and a tag axle. Do NOT use the interlock on dry pavement or engage it while the axles are turning--that is a good recipe for breaking axles or grinding gears in the diffs. It is about the same as running in 4wd on dry pavement. The brake limiter takes away about 60% of the air pressure from the front axle. It is supposed to keep the front axle from locking up when you are on a slippery road. I think you will find that 99% of the time it is best to keep it on the dry road position.

If you don't already know how to take care of a heavy duty diesel you would be a good idea to get a shop manual so you will know what needs to be done. Probably the most important thing to know is to keep the pH as neutral as you can get it. You should have a water filter somewhere, most likely in the driver's side engine compartment. It will have an additive package in it. That needs to be changed annually whether the engine has been run very much or not. The additive helps big time to curb electrolysis in the engine.

I don't know if your Road Ranger has OD or not. If you don't have OD and want OD you can swap almost any other RR that has OD in with very little modification. Redline should be 2100 and you shouldn't pull below 1500. Perfect cruising speed should be around 1700.

Good luck and happy trails to you.
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Old 11-03-2016, 02:09 AM   #10
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Ohhh but I do love me a good RoadRanger tranny..... I'm guessing that's a 7 or a 9 speed? I didn't see the shift pattern decal in the photo but I also didn't see the flipper switch on the left side of the shift knob that the 13 and 18 speeds have....
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