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Old 11-11-2015, 09:21 PM   #11
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Your B700 probably has a frame width of 34 inches give or take. If your '51 is close, you are off to a good start. How good are you working with sheet metal?
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Old 11-12-2015, 08:54 AM   #12
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Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Sydney, Nova Scotia
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Year: 1990
Coachwork: Wayne
Chassis: Ford B700
Engine: New Holland 6.6 Diesel
Sheet metal work is not a problem. Over the years we've chopped tops, shortened cars, customized all kinds of hybrid vehicles and built drag cars from scratch. Making the transition piece from the square cowl of the bus to the rounded body lines and V shaped hood of the 1951 will be the real challenge. Easy if I cut the cowl part off the 51's cab but I'm saving that complete cab for another bucket list project(rat rod).

Still trying to decide if the swap will be worth the effort. It's a lot of hours of head scratching, pattern making, metal working and MIG welding and that's IF it's wide enough to cover the tires. Those front fenders are way too wide for the 1969 F350 frame the cab is sitting on but only the tape measure will tell us if it will fit on the bus. Then again we could widen the 51's fenders if that's the case - fairly easy because of the flat mounting flange. See how I'm trying to talk myself into this project?

The whole plan needs a bit more thought before we even attempt it. I guess a check with the Nova Scotia DMV to check the legality of the conversion from a 1990 front clip to a 1951 might be a good idea first LOL. Ran into a problem with registration many years ago when we grafted a Jeep CJ front clip onto a 1947 F100. Eventually got it straightened out but it was an added hassle to the project.
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Old 11-18-2015, 05:33 PM   #13
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Year: 1990
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Chassis: Ford B700
Engine: New Holland 6.6 Diesel
Backed the race car into it's new winter quarters and discovered I'm not going to have the 12 1/2 feet for the camper section I thought at first. Going to be closer to 10 feet now but at 8 feet wide that should be plenty of room for weekend camping.



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Old 11-18-2015, 05:41 PM   #14
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That's SO COOL! Rock on, man!
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Old 11-18-2015, 09:34 PM   #15
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Year: 1978
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Chassis: Lifeguard
Engine: 366 Chevy
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Originally Posted by Peasant Racing View Post
Backed the race car into it's new winter quarters and discovered I'm not going to have the 12 1/2 feet for the camper section I thought at first. Going to be closer to 10 feet now but at 8 feet wide that should be plenty of room for weekend camping.


With 10ft is there going to be room for a separator wall?

I ran into the same dilemma. I was counting on 16' for the house section and because the car is so long and I had to have a wall, I'm down to 12' from the front door to the divider. That just means I have to get creative with the overheads above the windshield and the space under the dash.
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Old 11-18-2015, 09:43 PM   #16
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Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Sydney, Nova Scotia
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Year: 1990
Coachwork: Wayne
Chassis: Ford B700
Engine: New Holland 6.6 Diesel
A divider wall 2 feet behind the car then gives me 10 feet up to the back of the driver's seat. Also that 2 feet behind the car gives me better access to the winch and tie-downs under the back of the car and some storage area for raceday stuff like jack and jackstands, fuel and water jugs, battery charger, etc. With the ramps offset that little bit I can open the driver's door enough to get in and out and the walkway along the side of the car to the back door is plenty wide even for a big guy like me.
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Old 11-19-2015, 01:20 AM   #17
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Year: 1946
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Way cool! Lot'sa work, but way cool.
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Old 12-01-2015, 10:33 PM   #18
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Location: Sydney, Nova Scotia
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Year: 1990
Coachwork: Wayne
Chassis: Ford B700
Engine: New Holland 6.6 Diesel
I think we've got a first draft for A floor plan. Toilet has to be where it is because that's the only place under the floor where the black water tank fits. Won't get used much anyway since all the drag strips we go to have toilets and showers on site.

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Old 12-02-2015, 06:18 PM   #19
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Year: 2003
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Try rigging all of the water on one side. Delete the vanity and use the sink for double duty.
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Old 12-04-2015, 08:14 PM   #20
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Location: St Louis Metro
Posts: 105
Year: 1978
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Chassis: Lifeguard
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Try rigging all of the water on one side. Delete the vanity and use the sink for double duty.
That's exactly what I did!

Hey P.R., have you considered doing away with the black tank and use a Loveable Loo instead. That way you can put both you fresh and grey tanks below. My floor plan is similar to yours, but instead of a futon, I have a jack-knife sofa sleeper with my fresh water tank under it but still inside the bus. I also put overhead storage over both the sofa and the dinette.

Comment on your floor plan:

Scale - if the grid represents 6" squares your draft is one column too wide, most busses are 7'6" wide inside. That 6" could hurt. The bath area is way too tiny even if you take the vanity out. The door is only 16". The distance from the toilet to the door is 12" - that's a size 10 shoe. Dropping trou and sitting in that little space is uncomfortable at best, impossible for larger or taller folks. Your hallway and garage door is only 18", I made mine 28 in case I need to move furniture or large items thru there (during my tear-down. I stored my couch, dinette, overheads, and captains chairs in the bus's garage). How tall is your fridge cause 12"x16" will barely hold a six-pack.

Layout - If you're not really needing an oven. You can buy a portable cooktop (1 or 2 eyes) and park it over the refrigerator and do away with the corner.. The microwave can go up on the overhead to regain counter space. Lastly, One thing I did for strength and to save some space is installed my 2x4s sideways so the walls are only 2" wide instead of 4". My wainscots and walls are all Luan for the same reason. Doing this means you have to create your own door frames, but it saved space while maintaining rigidity.


Please don't take this as criticism, I've been where you are and had to redo alot because the space was smaller than I thought. I had to resort to an outdoor shower cause my fridge took its space. I'm a small guy and my 30x30 water closet makes me claustrophobic. I really wanted to have the bathroom door serve double duty and lock off that part of the hallway to make the loo feel bigger, but moving the hinges to the front meant you couldn't get in there from the house section - bad plan. I'll update my build thread this weekend and show you some of the compromises I had to make .
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