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Old 02-08-2017, 10:23 PM   #11
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 39
Year: 1992
Chassis: Cadet
Engine: 5.7 350 gas
Rated Cap: 35 Passenger or 14,500
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Originally Posted by Rusty View Post
Low miles are good, and bad.



I bought a bus last month with 26,000 miles, so we are in similar situation. You will need to go-through and see what needs maintaining. Belts, hoses, fuel lines are what I found need replacing. They are dry from age, where as a regularly used vehicle would get some fleet love.



Especially fuel line- new gas is corrosive to older materials e85, etc.



Put up some pics !! Dying to see a 25 yo nearly new bus !


Even though it's been parked for about 4 years. It was still used as a shuttle for the church. It's been driven for events on a few occasions since parked so it's been mostly maintained! I'll post up a video of it driving around.
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Old 02-09-2017, 03:57 AM   #12
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Location: Winlcok, WA
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The coach A/C system can get $$$ very quickly. If there are not any cold A/C vents that blow anywhere close to the driver you will need to put the back of the bus into refrigerator mode to get any decent cooling up front.

As far as heat is concerned, there is most probably a valve that turns on and off the hot water that goes to the heater cores. Carpenter usually used a slider control that used a cable to open and close the valve. Over time the cable either froze up or the valve would stop opening and closing completely or usually stopped working completely. They were either replaced with a manual valve or the driver just had to suffer when the outside ambient temps got high.

Look under the hood outside or under the doghouse inside and find the heater hoses where they enter and exit the engine block. If you have a slider valve you should be able to follow the cable to the control valve located in one of the heater coolant lines. If the plunger is down the valve is closed. If the plunger is up the valve is open. If you don't have a cable operated valve then you will have either a gate valve or a ball valve in the line to stop the flow of coolant to the heater cores. Gate valves are open with the handle is parallel to the pipe/hose. Ball valves are open when the handle is twisted all the way counterclockwise.

If everything appears to be open and you still are not getting any heat I would say it is time to get out the infrared laser thermometer. Once the engine is up to operating temperature you will be able to take readings on the hoses/pipes going to the heater cores to determine where the hot water stops.

It may be something as simple as air in the system. If any work was done and the level of coolant went below a certain level or if the system was opened for whatever reason you might have a vapor lock in the heater or coolant lines that will need to be bled out.

On all of the heater/defroster units there should be a bleed screw to aid in the bleeding of air out of the system. If there isn't you will need to crack open a hose enough to let some air out.

Good luck.
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Old 02-12-2017, 10:04 AM   #13
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Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 39
Year: 1992
Chassis: Cadet
Engine: 5.7 350 gas
Rated Cap: 35 Passenger or 14,500
We got our bus!!!! Now what?

Headed to work on the bus today. Changing belts and removing seats. Any recommended tools for getting the seats out?
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Old 02-12-2017, 01:57 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by 30kdays View Post
Headed to work on the bus today. Changing belts and removing seats. Any recommended tools for getting the seats out?
That depends on if you want to keep the bolts or not... I would keep them; but I am odd.

A hammer and chisel, grinder air or electric will make the job a lot faster and safety glasses if you go that route of course. Are you working solo or have a helper? Do you want a workout or do you want the tool to do the work.

TMO and TMI
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Old 02-12-2017, 02:57 PM   #15
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 6,296
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International S3800
Engine: DT360
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
if you want A/C while driving then yes keep it... esp if it works.. cowlitz is right they can be pricey to repair but not always if you know where to look for parts.,. it wont do you any good while you are parked and the engine off though,, its basically like a car A/C only bigger.

im all about being cool on the road so i added 2 to my carpenter.. they wont do a great job cooling the driver seat, hgowever most of the systems are large enough you could add a second evaporator upfront.. under dash or in dash like i did for driver A/C..



my carpenter has bergstrom heaters... there were 3 valves to look for.. 2 water faucet valves under the hood and then one water faucet valve on the floor next to the drivers foot... opening all of these will circulate the coolant through all of the bus heaters.
then just turn the fans on from the panel..

-Christopher
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Old 02-12-2017, 03:00 PM   #16
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Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 56
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DT466
Rated Cap: 77
For us, it was best to use an impact driver (gun would have more torque) to get as many off as possible with a healthy spray down of penetrating oil (WD-40 in this case). Stubborn ones I had to grind notches into the bolt head and chisel/hammer the head off. See episodes 9-11 of our build.

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Old 02-12-2017, 03:16 PM   #17
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Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 39
Year: 1992
Chassis: Cadet
Engine: 5.7 350 gas
Rated Cap: 35 Passenger or 14,500


How do we get this open? I've pulled and pulled and I can't seem to get the doghouse open. Is there a latch?
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Old 02-12-2017, 03:21 PM   #18
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Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 39
Year: 1992
Chassis: Cadet
Engine: 5.7 350 gas
Rated Cap: 35 Passenger or 14,500
We got our bus!!!! Now what?

Just forced it open. The rubber had melted it together
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