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Old 06-16-2015, 08:14 PM   #91
Bus Crazy
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Vacaville, Ca
Posts: 1,623
Year: 1988
Coachwork: Crown / Pusher
Engine: 8.3 Cummins
Gardner 5-Gal. Sta-Kool 770 Cool Roof Elastomeric Coating-SK-7705 - The Home Depot

Went out & bought 6 gallons today, going to paint the roof before mounting the Awning I bought yesterday

P.S. Went with the 10 yr instead of the 7 yr
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Old 06-28-2018, 01:34 PM   #92
Bus Nut
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Tahoe
Posts: 513
Year: 1997
Coachwork: International
Chassis: 3000RE
Engine: T444E w/ MT643
Rated Cap: 84 pass, 40'
Originally Posted by nat_ster View Post
Go back to my first post and rear the two build threads I linked. Both have a ton of detailed pics.

That's because we run our studs horizontal, not vertical.

We call it strapping.

Far stronger, better system in every way.

The method you use will depend on skill, money, tools, and How long you want the bus to last.
I need my bus to last 30 to 40 years. Not removing the inside skin, rotted fiberglass insulation, rustproofing, ect will result in a bus that may only last 3 to 5 years.

Also many of these low buck, slapped togeather builds are the reason why most insurance companys will no longer insure skoolie conversions.

So folks, choose your method and live with it.

I zoomed in on the pics but don't see DETAIL on exactly what you used for hardware. I want to go horizontal like you are. I also am interested in trying to fill my ribs with spray foam. I just saw a mention of that, not a how to. Mine aren't cut open anywhere unless they are at the bottom underneath? They have holes the size of a straw from a can of CLOSED CELL spray foam - QUAD Foam. I have no idea if that would work or if it DID work if it would provide benefit anywhere near the cost. I am spray foaming the interior with Tiger foam next week hopefully but I need to get my strapping in first!
middle aged mom on a learning adventure
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