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06-16-2015, 06:00 AM
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#81
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Almost There
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Eastern Kentucky
Posts: 76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by family wagon
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BAAAAHAAAHAHAAAAAAHAAAAAA!
That was great! Thanks
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06-16-2015, 06:30 AM
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#82
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Tomball, TX
Posts: 313
Year: 1988
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC/2000
Engine: Cummins 5.9TA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyboyHPD
It sounds like you're wanting to seal any leaks on the outside to keep water from getting in. I hope you find something that works.
Here is something that you may consider using down the road when and if you ever consider doing major reconstruction on the inside. They sell both an insulating spray on and also a sound deadener that sprays on. It has great reviews. They are also right here in Houston. Good luck with your build.
Spray-On Insulation - Automotive Insulation Coatings | LizardSkin
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That looks interesting. Probably pretty expensive.
I've noticed a lot of people in the Houston area on here. You work for HPD? So does my brother-in-law.
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06-16-2015, 06:37 AM
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#83
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Tomball, TX
Posts: 313
Year: 1988
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC/2000
Engine: Cummins 5.9TA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jazty
Agreed.
Think about this Austin.. So you have a leak. Water is getting into the walls, floors and roof, rusting out the bus. And you're thinking you want to allow the rotting to continue and build a waterproof bubble inside the bus?
Ok.. so you do that. You could build an encapsulated, waterproof capsule inside the bus. What's happening to that leak? It just keeps letting water in and rotting your bus away. Not only that, but this waterproof capsule will probably end up accelerating the rot by keeping the moisture trapped up against the steel.
In a couple years your waterproof capsule is lying out in the open on top of a pile of iron oxide with some wheels and windshield glass lying around.
Ok, that last statement is a slight exaggeration, but why would you put any work into the bus interior if you're just letting the structure rot? Maybe if you were disposing of it next year..
Sealing it from the inside isn't sealing at all. Sealing is done from the outside. Water coming through the roof of your house? You don't "seal" the ceiling drywall with some bedliner, you fix the leak in the roof.
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I was trying to think of something to do to make sure water stays out this summer/fall/winter before I can put time into the exterior work next spring. I think my biggest return on effort would be to seal all the windows and fix the hole in the emergency exit door. I may have to gut it (or work around whatever is in it) in the spring when I work on the exterior. With that in mind, I may wait to insulate until the spring as well.
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06-16-2015, 06:38 AM
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#84
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Tomball, TX
Posts: 313
Year: 1988
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC/2000
Engine: Cummins 5.9TA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dredman
You roll the condom on the outside too, even when bedliner might look and feel cool on the inside
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I don't use condoms. See the earlier post about the nut cancer/uniballin.
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06-16-2015, 06:39 AM
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#85
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Tomball, TX
Posts: 313
Year: 1988
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC/2000
Engine: Cummins 5.9TA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by family wagon
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How does that even happen? And I suppose the method of removing herculiner is similar to the method of removing superglue. See also: American Pie 2.
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06-16-2015, 11:33 AM
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#86
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Vacaville, Ca
Posts: 1,634
Year: 1988
Coachwork: Crown / Pusher
Engine: 8.3 Cummins
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Ok so could you use Lizard Skin on the outside roof area or is there something better that could be sprayed or rolled on over the paint to seal the roof?
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06-16-2015, 11:42 AM
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#87
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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06-16-2015, 11:48 AM
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#88
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Vacaville, Ca
Posts: 1,634
Year: 1988
Coachwork: Crown / Pusher
Engine: 8.3 Cummins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB
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Thank You
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06-16-2015, 02:44 PM
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#89
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
Posts: 1,793
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: B3800 Short bus
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 36
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06-16-2015, 08:06 PM
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#90
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Houston, Tx.
Posts: 403
Year: 1999
Coachwork: AmTran
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466E
Rated Cap: 84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by austin1989us
That looks interesting. Probably pretty expensive.
I've noticed a lot of people in the Houston area on here. You work for HPD? So does my brother-in-law.
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I'm not sure of the cost, might be worth checking out with a phone call. I'm retired HPD after 20 years. Used to fly helicopters for them. If you ever need help (free labor) let me know. I'm hoping to get one soon and am dying to learn everything about the process.
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06-28-2018, 01:34 PM
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#92
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Tahoe
Posts: 513
Year: 1997
Coachwork: International
Chassis: 3000RE
Engine: T444E w/ MT643
Rated Cap: 84 pass, 40'
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nat_ster
Go back to my first post and rear the two build threads I linked. Both have a ton of detailed pics.
That's because we run our studs horizontal, not vertical.
We call it strapping.
Far stronger, better system in every way.
The method you use will depend on skill, money, tools, and How long you want the bus to last.
I need my bus to last 30 to 40 years. Not removing the inside skin, rotted fiberglass insulation, rustproofing, ect will result in a bus that may only last 3 to 5 years.
Also many of these low buck, slapped togeather builds are the reason why most insurance companys will no longer insure skoolie conversions.
So folks, choose your method and live with it.
Nat
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I zoomed in on the pics but don't see DETAIL on exactly what you used for hardware. I want to go horizontal like you are. I also am interested in trying to fill my ribs with spray foam. I just saw a mention of that, not a how to. Mine aren't cut open anywhere unless they are at the bottom underneath? They have holes the size of a straw from a can of CLOSED CELL spray foam - QUAD Foam. I have no idea if that would work or if it DID work if it would provide benefit anywhere near the cost. I am spray foaming the interior with Tiger foam next week hopefully but I need to get my strapping in first!
__________________
middle aged mom on a learning adventure
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