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Old 07-03-2006, 11:59 PM   #11
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Many 454's (even most) had peanut-port heads...they're not BAD, but nowhere near as good as the oval- or (best) rectangle-port heads. Stock peanut-ports will support 425+HP on a 454, & over 500 when ported. The 366's biggest problem is its small bore (smaller, IIRC, than a SB 327/350), which severly limits valve size due to shrouding (I'd expect the heads to be different than the 427/454 for this reason). For small-blocks, the 305 has the same inherent limitation, as does Ford's medium-truck 370.

The 366 is a small-bore version of the tall-deck 427 big-block. The easiest thing would be replace the 366 with a high-torque 502 crate engine...not cheap, but I drove one before & after in a C-60 box truck--WOW! It had more guts loaded to the roof than the 366 had empty.

Other than that...is it a 2bbl? If so, try a 4bbl, a Q-jet would probably be best. Ditch the stock muffler for a high-flowing exhaust system. For intakes, I think a regular BB intake fits with spacers (Moroso makes them). Then again, tall-deck 427's are highly prized by hot-rodders to build strokers (taller deck means a longer-stroke crank fits without funky grinding), so intakes are out there (though most are high-RPM pieces). Heck, I sold a tall-deck 427 (from a C-50 dump truck) a couple months ago to a guy with an El Camino...by now, I think it's a 557ci stroker. (He won't be using peanut-port heads, I'm guessing. )

Unfortunately, the people saying the 366 has no potential aren't far off the mark. That's why my bus, originally 370-powered, now has a 460.

And for the record: a 454 is a TOUGH engine.
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Old 07-05-2006, 01:22 AM   #12
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Forced induction....I think an 8-71 Weiand coming out of the hood would look pretty cool

If you could get to a 100% volumetric efficiency I think the power gain would be amazing. Engines are just not all that efficient. Most normally aspirated engines would be lucky to hit an 85% volumetic efficiency. That's like having an entire cylinder on a small block not doing anything! A manifold vacuum gauge would do wonders. They are only like $20-30 and will tell you just how bad things are. They even help with mileage because they serve as a constant reminder. More vacuum means more economy (and less performance). That may be a good starting point for you if forced induction is the way you want to go.

Things to consider when doing forced induction:

The carb will have to be tuned properly. Unfortunately they meter fuel linearly based on volume, not on density/mass which is what a blower really needs. This just means that with big boost (which you won't have) will either idle nicely and lean out on the top or idle poorly, but be jetted correctly on the top end. A predator carb might be a good option here.

The boost will be limited by uor fuel pressure. If the boost is higher than the say 5 psi your fuel is coming in at, the needles in the carb won't be able to open and let gas in! Fortunately there are boost referenced fuel pressure regulators IF you were to run into that problem.

You MAY have to run premium fuel to prevent knocking. With the boost levels you'd be looking at I think you're probably ok on 87 octane.

Lower compression ratios are a blower's friend. When you take the heads off to port them (because you're going to whether you want to or not) you could just put on a thicker QUALITY head gasket which will help out on that end. Industrial motors don't generally have high compression anyway.

You may have to upgrade the ignition to throw a hotter spark. MSD boxes (or similar multispark ignition boxes) can be had for cheap on eBay and will do wonders either way. They are also easy to wire in. A 6AL is the hottest I'd go.

Turbos require some sort of plumbing for the air. Superchargers need a mechanical drive. A supercharger would be better in this application in my opinion, but either would work. Just decide what kind of fabrication you're more comfortable with.

There's more to it than that, but that's a good starting point. If you'd like to read up on heads a good starting point will be this site.

http://www.mortec.com
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Old 07-05-2006, 01:28 AM   #13
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Oh yeah...one more thought. If all this is too much and you do decide to swap motors, I say to hell with a big crate motor. Find yourself an old cadillac with a 500ci monster V-8. These things were designed to pull land yachts around and have A LOT or power right out of the box with potential for more on top of that. Most can be had for a steal. I personally know of one for only $400 that runs right now. Did I mention that with an aluminum intake and aluminum heads these things weigh LESS than a small block chevy due to their high nickel content block? The block has basically the same composition as the "bowtie blocks" chevy sells as a base for hi-po race motors.

Outputs varied, but 500+ ft lbs of torque was the norm. If you'd like to read up on them as well, MTS has a decent site with a forum on it.

http://www.500cid.com

They have a special right now for a zero decked 500 with forged rods, Keith Black hypereutectic pistons, etc etc etc for only $2850+core and shipping. That's about the same price as a decent small block out of Summit or Jegs
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Old 07-05-2006, 06:38 AM   #14
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Thanks for the info I think any forced induction project will be started with the addition of a megasquirt setup http://www.bgsoflex.com/megasquirt.html the latest version taps into the HEI and allows you to play with timing on the fly.
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Old 07-05-2006, 09:02 PM   #15
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Ok....THAT is cool I was working on an analog fuel injection system for a friend of mine to use on a turbocharged opposed twin briggs and stratton racing mower (outlaw class, baby) since a pair of flatslide mikuni's wasn't keeping up. Unfortunately I ran into problems with advance curves, etc. I think I might make him look into this megasquirt system. Btw...that mower is capable of over 70 mph and gets there plenty quick
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Old 07-07-2006, 08:14 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the_experience03
Oh yeah...one more thought. If all this is too much and you do decide to swap motors, I say to hell with a big crate motor. Find yourself an old cadillac with a 500ci monster V-8. These things were designed to pull land yachts around and have A LOT or power right out of the box with potential for more on top of that. Most can be had for a steal. I personally know of one for only $400 that runs right now. Did I mention that with an aluminum intake and aluminum heads these things weigh LESS than a small block chevy due to their high nickel content block? The block has basically the same composition as the "bowtie blocks" chevy sells as a base for hi-po race motors.

Outputs varied, but 500+ ft lbs of torque was the norm. If you'd like to read up on them as well, MTS has a decent site with a forum on it.

http://www.500cid.com

They have a special right now for a zero decked 500 with forged rods, Keith Black hypereutectic pistons, etc etc etc for only $2850+core and shipping. That's about the same price as a decent small block out of Summit or Jegs
The problem being, the Cad 500 isn't a good MDT engine. It can't handle sustained high RPM's--many buses run 3000+ on the highway, which resultes in excessive piston speeds on the very-long-stroke 500. The bore & stroke are 4.30" (square engine), longer than even a 454/502 Chevy. I love the Caddy engines (I drive a 79 Coupe de Ville with a 500+HP 542ci stroker), but they're not at all suitable for a bus.

Also, the aluminum heads will run you over $2000, and I think they require a different intake. Plus, the stock closed-chamber (1968-71) heads are VERY good, able to support 450+HP with no more than a good valve job & roller rockers.
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Old 07-07-2006, 10:08 PM   #17
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Careful here guys, he only wants info on the 366. He clearly stated that as he ripped frank a new one for suggesting a diesel engine swap.

Sorry I couldn't resist.
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Old 07-09-2006, 03:32 AM   #18
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I can feel OP's frustration ... nothing more exasperating than posting "Does anybody here know anything about xyz" and getting a slough of responses of "abc is (...thus and so...), you can google xyz".
It's not that Frank's reply didn't contain good information, it was just not responsive and OP has probably heard that 'party line' response more times than he's cared to.
Possibly we could have a section on the board "Answers I have to questions that haven't been asked and I feel the need to type" or something and people could just go there when they feel the need.
You expect a thread to drift, just not starting at the second post.

Couldn't resist neither ..
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Old 07-09-2006, 09:47 PM   #19
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So it appears that the consensus is: swap the 366 for anything else. But sounds like our guy doesn't want to so the question is how to hop up the 366. However.....since most everyone swaps it out or rebuilds it stock, probably not going to get much first hand advice. My two cents: find an adventurous engine builder and be the first one to build a big horsepower 366 skoolie engine. If someone can show us how to do it for decent $$$, they'll be a skoolie hero (WOW, who wouldn't want to be a SKOOLIE HERO!) as there are a lot of 366 buses out there for cheap.

Next argumentative topic: How can I hop up my 392 IHC without swapping,

I said, I don't want to swap it.

NO, I'm not swapping it out.

Can't we all just get along?
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Old 07-09-2006, 10:10 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bdavis441
So it appears that the consensus is: swap the 366 for anything else. But sounds like our guy doesn't want to so the question is how to hop up the 366. However.....since most everyone swaps it out or rebuilds it stock, probably not going to get much first hand advice. My two cents: find an adventurous engine builder and be the first one to build a big horsepower 366 skoolie engine. If someone can show us how to do it for decent $$$, they'll be a skoolie hero (WOW, who wouldn't want to be a SKOOLIE HERO!) as there are a lot of 366 buses out there for cheap.

Next argumentative topic: How can I hop up my 392 IHC without swapping,

I said, I don't want to swap it.

NO, I'm not swapping it out.

Can't we all just get along?
Right, nobody tries to beef up the 366 cant find any 'smart' engine builders just finding guys with the "install a 502" answers like I am not smart enough to think of a engine swap or installing a diesel myself, I made it simple, I am content wiht the current power at 0 to 2000' feet on flat land no wind I would like to simply perk it up a little so when I am going up a 7% grade at "the highest point on rout 80" I am doing a little better than 25 mph when I crest the top, is that so hard hah

I DONT want to SWAP the engine this engine runs PERFECT its a 250k mile engine it has 90k miles on it, I DONT want to spend 30k bux on a engine buying up all the popular crapola jegs or other hot rod shops sell.

What ever happen to the true "engine builders" I use to talk to years ago, locally they are all dead and gone (RIP) or I wouldnt be asking here...


I will forge ahead on my own, when I get some time I will find a turbo shop that will sell me a basic turbo to meet my needs not someone that wants to sell me all the billet carbon fiber bling homo crapola punk kids lust after....
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