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Old 07-16-2006, 10:50 PM   #31
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The real headers are cool. Are they stock or did someone swap them on as best as you can tell?

The most common turbo control I've seen that acts the way you're talking about is simply a manual wastegate. All a wastegate does is bypass the turbo after a set amount of boost has been reached. I'm sure there is a setup, either electrical or mechanical, that you could find. My first experience with them was in a Cessna 210T that had an additional control besides mixture, throttle, and prop speed (angle really.....). They must be reliable as the FAA seems to have an issue with anything even remotely unreliable being in the air. I guess this is why there is such a good supply of low hours lycomings and continentals out there for air boat enthusiasts.

The knock sensor thing would be cool with the megasquirt. If your 366 has HEI (and it probably does), the ignition mods available are just about limitless and it would appear from what I've read that the megasquirt is well suited to this system. Just out of curiousity, where did you fine 85 octane at an elevation of 5000 feet? The only place I have seen it is in the "low" areas of Montana and it scared me a little. My little 22re in my truck knocks enough as it is...I don't need 85 octane with 9.6:1 compression, aluminum head or not

A cool aspect of the megasquirt that I see is that you could tailor the system to run on E85. The only real fuel system mods required are running alcohol resistant fuel lines and replacing any rubber parts that might be affected. Personally I'd just change the fuel lines and see what happens. With E85's 103-106ish octane, you could really run some mean advance. I think that might get you some more power. Sure it doesn't get the same mileage as dino fuel, but last time I calculated it out with our local pump prices, you could lose somewhere around 35% of your fuel economy and break even. I haven't done the calculation in a while.

The system could truly be dual fuel even. The megasquirt seems to have provisions to adjust just as the new cars do for the fuel. An additional sensor is installed that simply calculates the amount of oxygen in the fuel with pure ethyl alcohol having much greater amounts of oxygen than gasoline. If you set a max and a min timing and fuel map, I would imagine that computer is capable of interpolating from there for various contents. That combined with the various other sensors like the knock sensor could really help wake things up. Just an idea though....certainly there's work involved with it.
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Old 11-19-2006, 01:18 PM   #32
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I too have a 366 in my 1985 Blue Bird Bus. So far I have only driven it about 1 mile. It had sat for about a year with out running. After about an hour of TLC it was idling on its own. I never got the bus over 30 MPH on the drive home (not from lack of trying).

I ordered a sevice manual from GMC. Hopefully, it will have the needed specs on cylinder compression and other various things. When it arrives (should be here by 11-24-06) I'll be happy to share anything the book might have in it. (That's if it is legal to share info like that)?
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Old 12-19-2006, 12:39 AM   #33
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Find anything that worked for your desired power gain?



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Old 12-19-2006, 05:59 PM   #34
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There's been some good advise on gas engines. Although I am a moron with diesel engines I do have a little experience with gassers.
From a basic factory setup the easiest way to increase torque and add a little horsepower is to start with how it breathes. If you can't get air in and out you are limiting the capacity of the engine and for the most part factory setups just don't breate well.
If your gasser is naturally assperated you might start with the air cleaner. The more surface area the more air is available. You may also install a spacer of at least 1" thickness under your carb or throttle body to help increase the effectiveness of the intake manifold.
Keep in mind that your engine can only take in as much fresh air as it can force out the tailpipe. Air in equal air out and vise versa. Now that the engine is capable of taking in more air you can dress the exhaust manifolds ports with a dremel tool to get rid of the factory mold flashings that create turbulance and drag. Better yet is a set of headers but dressing the factory manifolds will help a ton.
It's a long long long way to the back of a bus and any obstruction in the tailpipe is magnified by it's length. I'm no physics expert but I do know resistance is compounded as length increases. A muffler change may be in order also. It's often difficult to tell if a muffler is restricted but if there are any doubts, like it feels heavier than you think it should, change it out just to be sure.
I raced stock cars as a younger man. When building street stocks about the only engine mods we were allowed to do were external. It is amazing what cleaning up the airways can do to a stock engine.

Larry
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Old 12-19-2006, 07:46 PM   #35
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I looked everywhere last night for 366 specs with no luck. I wanted to know what size cams these things came with from the factory. My machinest told me a good rule of thumb is, is with stock head springs you can run a cam that has about a 1/2 inch of lift or .500 or so... my 350 gas engins in my truck run a .458 lift cam with stock head springs and no problems at all and tons of power in the low RPM range ( I run a 1970 GMC Jimmy with 40X17 mud tires) Sooooo I would think if GM put a weenie cam in these 366's a decent cam might get some more tourqe outta them.. but I cant find any cam specs!!!! ha ha.. I'll keep looking....

Mike...
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Old 12-20-2006, 03:38 PM   #36
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In years past GM produced a "Camper Special" version of their pickups. There were various upgrades throught the vehicles that resulted in this special package designation, but the engines were basically the same with the exception of the cam. Parts houses carried the "camper special" cams for those wanting to do their own conversions. Basically the cam resulted in a shift in the power band to a lower RPM but it was a trade off that left the top end performance lacking. However, the cam worked great for guys racing 1/2 mile oval dirt tracks!
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Old 12-20-2006, 04:30 PM   #37
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dang! I just went to my local GM dealer hoping they had books or could make a phone call and get the 366 specs.. NO LUCK!!!! Its a quest now... all they did was refer me to the GM website which I spent several hours at last night also with no luck... I'm still on it...


SO easy to pawn off work now a days by saying "ummm try the website" what would they have done if I brought them my bus to work on, winged it??? scary.... always do yer own work......



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Old 12-20-2006, 05:29 PM   #38
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My big block chevy guy recommends a Comp Cams 270 Magnum for this application. It's more cam than you'll ever need for any other mods you do, but shouldn't sacrifice any driveability. He said that is about the best you can do short of swapping heads to get better ports. The bore is too small to run a valve of any real size. I personally have no experience with this cam, but it comes from a guy building a 475ci alky BBC for an S-10 mud racer.

He knows his stuff...his current truck is a fullsize half ton chevy with a 402, TH-400, and get this....Ford NP205. He runs a 9 inch rear on a shackle flipped leaf spring set up for now with a C-10 trailing arm setup in the works. Thge front end is a high pinion Dana 44 suspended with extended Ford radius arms and coil springs. Needless to say I trust his knowledge base.

Here's a link to his work if you're curious....
http://nwmudrace.proboards42.com/ind...ead=1145935388
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Old 12-21-2006, 04:17 PM   #39
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Found these specs for 71-76's out of Chiltons

366 Specs:

Plug Gap: .035
Point Gap: .019
Timing: 8 BTDC
Idle: 500 with AT 600
Fuel Pressure: 5 - 6.5
Bore Stroke: 3.937X3.76
HP: 200@4000
Torque: 300@2800 RPM
Compression Ratio: 8.0 71 - 74 ---- 8.0:1 75 - 78
Normal oil pressure: 40-55
Cam Lift: .234

Torque Specs:
Head bolts: 80
Rod Bearing: 55
Main Bearing: 100
Crankshaft Balancer : 85
Flywheel to Cranshaft: 60
Intake Bolts: 30
Exhaust Bolts: 20

Given this knowledge I'll be changing out my cam and lifters on my bus the .234 has much much room for improvment. During my search I found a recomendation which was the Howards RV Cam #120021 which reads,

Lift: .476"/.502" Duration @ .050": 204/214 Lobe Center: 112 Exceptional low end torque. Good in PUs, 4X4s and RVs

Found at http://www.competitionproducts.com/prod ... p?dept=320 for $62.00

I'll probably call a few places but this one looks like worlds of improvment over the stock .234 Thats all I could find guys... hopefully this helps someone.


Mike...
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Old 12-21-2006, 04:32 PM   #40
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Good luck on the cam change! I'm sure there's one out there somewhere that will fit the bill and give you what you are looking for in performance.
I hope you have enough clearance to go from .234 lift to .476 lift. Those valves would be shoved over twice as deep, almost an extra 1/4", into the combustion chamber!
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