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Old 12-21-2006, 05:06 PM   #41
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I'll call a few cam manufacturers first but it should be no problem going just under a 1/2 inch. the valves close before the piston starts coming back up. its just a matter of the head spring being beefy enough to close it quickly enough before the piston hits it, thus the double and triple coil head/valve springs you see on performance engines with way lifted cams...
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Old 12-22-2006, 11:50 AM   #42
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Be careful with making major changes, power increase directly affects durability, (no free lunch). The next thing is to remember is that horsepower is just a number derived from a mathematical calculation(torque X rpm /5250) the torque is what does the work. An engine can only pump so much air CFM. displacement X RPM max / (12x12x12) 1 cubic ft. When you increase airflow through the engine you increase the rpm where the torque peaks raising hp but not necessarly torque. With that being said, if it was mine I would probably go with a mild increase in camlift and possibly duration, advancing the cam timing lowers the power band(higher ntorque @ lower rpm) warning make sure that you don't crash your valves and pistons. Then small diameter primary tube headers to keep exhaust velocity maximized,then thru a hi flow muffler and 3" mandrel bent pipes to the rear bumper-dual exhaust. Big truck parts house should have 10' sticks and mandrel bends of pipe-cut to fit and weld together. On the intake side cool air is also a good friend, plumb from the cowl area, you get less garbage in the intake from there than the grill. If you have a governor turn it up to engine redline, if you disable it you risk engine overspeed and the associated early demise of the engine. The stock HEI ignition is plenty hot enuff for a stock engine up to about 6000 rpm. Call some of the aftermarket cam mfg's and see what they recommend and then compare that to the factory cams, then make your choice. this engine does not tollerate high rpm and/or excessive valve lift vert well.
good luck
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Old 12-23-2006, 07:33 PM   #43
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I agree, I'll call a cam manufacture first that is familiar with the 366, not just big blocks in general...


Mike...
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Old 12-24-2006, 12:20 AM   #44
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This is a 366, I forget the exact valve sizes but they are HUGE when compaired to what you find on a sb engine of the same cubic inches and the SB guys would lust after valves as big as those found on the "366" I know I wish I could put them in my sb 350 I seen what its like going from 1.94's to 2.02's dont try to compare this 366 valves, heads, ports with other bb engines like the 454, sb 400's punched out to 427 are running smaller valves and ports than my stock 366 is, dont hear anybody ragging on them, they make plenty of power..

I suggest taking the 366 like every other TRUE engine builder does on a case by case basis then design and engineer the specific engine for the specific application, forget about everything you ever read about BB Chevy engines and build and tune it for your BUS not your Nova or pickup truck, your pulling 2 nova's and a pickup truck all at once with your 366...

Just my .02
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Old 12-24-2006, 12:26 AM   #45
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amen brother, its a tall deck truck engine, not a passenger or hyper bigblock-apples and grapefruit.

happy holidays
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Old 08-14-2007, 01:55 PM   #46
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Re: Chevy 366 hop up

Any more thoughts or updates?
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Old 08-20-2007, 04:50 PM   #47
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Re: Chevy 366 hop up

I think that .234 lift is at the cam, actual valve lift is a wopping .386. Like I said, if you put in too much cam duration then the intake valves can't sit on the seat long enough to keep cool and you will beat the valves out of round when they soften up. Also the ramps leading up to and off of the cam lobe are important in keeping the valves and seats in good working order, softer landings. I was looking at marine cams for my 427, they have to make power all the time like a bus, unlike a drag, circle, 4x4 which only has to make power for a short time. Come to think of it, solid lifter cams have quieting ramps built in. Helps me remember the old 68 Z-28s with the optional Zuntov solid lifter racing cam and 2X4 cross ram intakes. You could hear the rocker arms rattling a block away and those buggers were FAST. I'm pretty old to remember that. I think a boat guy is the one to talk to, not only do they have to make tremendous amounts of power they have to live a long life. I have gone tubing a couple of times this year and it still suprises me how much power a boat consumes. sportyrick
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Old 08-21-2007, 10:19 AM   #48
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Re: Chevy 366 hop up

have you tried to adjust the ignition timing a couple of degrees when you change altitude? back in the 70's i had a neighbor that used to stop and change the timing on his dodge motorhome when he started to gain altitude in the rockies. their should be an old timer in the mountains that can tell you how much (degrees) and which direction advance or retard, sory but my memory just doesn't work that well anymore.
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Old 08-21-2007, 10:23 AM   #49
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Re: Chevy 366 hop up

Quote:
Originally Posted by paul iossi
have you tried to adjust the ignition timing a couple of degrees when you change altitude? back in the 70's i had a neighbor that used to stop and change the timing on his dodge motorhome when he started to gain altitude in the rockies. their should be an old timer in the mountains that can tell you how much (degrees) and which direction advance or retard, sory but my memory just doesn't work that well anymore.
Somewhere I seen a advance retard box you mount on the dash (or where ever) so you can adjust your timing on the fly.

The newer megasquirt allows you to play with timing too.

http://www.megasquirt.info/
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Old 08-21-2007, 01:11 PM   #50
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Re: Chevy 366 hop up

MSD makes such a part (though you would need to be running their CD box as well)



Adjustable Timing Control,
PN 8680
The MSD Adjustable Timing Control puts you in control of your ignition timing - from the driver's seat! A dash mounted control knob allows you to adjust the ignition timing to compensate for changes in altitude, low octane gas, or heavy loads. For cars driven every day but raced occasionally on the weekends, this control is perfect. Increased fuel mileage and performance are just some of the benefits as the ignition timing can be advanced or retarded to prevent engine detonation.
The control knob mounts to the dash board for easy and accurate timing adjustments up to 15. The Control can be used on 4, 6 and 8-cylinder engines and must be used with an MSD Ignition Control.
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