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Old 09-14-2018, 07:10 PM   #1
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 27
DT466 Viscous Fan Question

There are a few threads discussing the Viscous Fan on the International DT466 in relation to diagnosing overheating problems.

But if you already know you need a new viscous fan, am I correct that driving with a non-functional viscous fan is not an issue unless your engine temp starts climbing to unsafe temps... in other words, as long as you keep the bus running in a safe temp range, it doesn't matter whether the fan is working or not??

Secondly, does anyone have first hand knowledge of how much it cost to replace the fan clutch? Anyone done it themselves? How labor intensive is it?

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Old 09-14-2018, 08:12 PM   #2
Bus Crazy
 
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Chassis: old f500- new 2005 f-450
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generally speaking

if the radiator is out front and you are doing 35 mph or more, I would think you could squeak by with out a fan at all. slow up mountain grades, or stop and go traffic, you are going to need that fan. Depending how the fan is attached, you may need special tools to do the work. Many fans with these big single fastening nuts, the threads are backwards from most other nuts and bolts. figure an hour minimum charge. that is minimum. A lot of places that is $135 an hour

william
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Old 09-14-2018, 08:28 PM   #3
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,758
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
there are different DT-466s and different fan clutches.. the mechanical DT-466 used a stud mnount type clutch.. there are 4 or 6 bolts holding the fan clutch to the center hub and 6 bolts holding the fan to the clutch..



removing it.. there are several different ways to approach it.. I have a DT360 (mechanical).. and was able to remove my clutch by putting a piece of cardboard against the inside of the radiator to protect the radiator.. then I separated the fan blade from the clutch, removed the alternator, and separated the clutch from the hib... i was able to pull the fan back against the engine and slide the clutch out carefully...



if you have a DT-466E. you will have a hub mount clutch.. its a single large bolt in the center of the clutch, and its a REVERSE thread.. which means turn it to the RIGHT to LOOSEN it.. you'l need a fan clutch wrench to hold the pulley stopped and then a 2 INCH open end wrench and a little muscle to break that large nut free.. then remove as described before... separate the fan, yank the alternator and slide out the clutch...



I think the kit-masters reman clutches will be anywhere from 200-400 bucks depending on which you need.. you can call navistar dealer, give them last 8 of your VIN and tell them you need a new fan clutch.. dont have a cow when they give you a price.. just ask for the part number... then go shopping... that navistar part number will likely cross reference..



now.. do you need a fan? the answer is yes and no.. you are coprrect in that you can drive with a bad fan c.utch as long as you dont get that engine hot.. but if you happen to end up in a situation where its getting hot.. you need to be preapred to figure out how to cool it down.. run that DT-466 above 230 degrees a time or two and you''ll be replacing the cylinder liner seals.. (rebuilding the engine essentially)..


when the clutch was bad on my DT-360.. it still spun at minimum speed of 300-400 RPM all the time which moves some air.. at idle it ran cold.. in town it ran cold.. on the highway on a hot day.. (above 80 or so).. it would run up to 215 or so... saw it get close to 220 once...



if your clutch is so bad that you dont get minimum speed.. the fan barely spins.. then you will have more tendencies to over-heat under high RPM heavy Load or mountains or towing...



incidently since I replaced my clutch and adjusted the temp down on the new one.. I run up to 185 MAYBE 190 Max.. and I hear that fan roar and ive never seen anything close to 200... except when the air shutters stuck closed once this spring.. it went up to just above 200 before I got them open...then that fan roared to life to quickly cool it down.. and that was a hot day.. 90+
-Christopher
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Old 09-17-2018, 01:28 PM   #4
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
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So I drove the bus at night for cooler air temps... I drove half of my 800+ return trip home. I'm not driving the second half til later in the week. The engine temp stayed around 180 unless climbing, then could go up to about 200.

The transmission temp, however, would spike even on short, or gradual, grades, and then quickly come back down as soon as I was back up to speed The downhill side.

The fan spins easily by hand when the engine is off, so it seems that it likely does need to be replaced. But here's my question: it's my understanding that the tranny uses the radiator and the fan to cool off, same as the engine. But if the fan is not designed to kick on until around 210 degrees... Well I never saw the engine temp get that high. But the tranny temp would be approaching 300 on the climbs.

Will installing a new viscous fan clutch help in cooing the tranny, or is there something else I'm not yet considering?
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Old 04-23-2021, 11:09 PM   #5
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Does anybody know the part number for the fanclutch
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Old 04-24-2021, 06:46 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vaneto View Post
Does anybody know the part number for the fanclutch

Post #3 addresses this. You need to call the International dealer and give them your VIN number.
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Old 04-28-2021, 03:57 PM   #7
Mini-Skoolie
 
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I called Navistar and they refuse to give the part number does anybody know what the part number for the fan clutch?
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Old 06-30-2021, 12:22 AM   #8
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Denver, co
Posts: 58
Year: 1999
Coachwork: International
Chassis: International (I think)
Engine: Dt466e w/ Allison md3060
Rated Cap: 84, 35000 gvwr
Help with dt466e cooling

So we just got an engine rebuild done about 9 months ago and started our trip about 4 months ago. Within the last two weeks I noticed bubbling in the coolant reservoir, and the temp hitting 210 regularly and 220ish one time o. A mountain pull. Previously I could floor it up a hill at 25 or so mph and it would stay about 190ish. A much steeper hill.

Any ideas on what it might be? It looks like the bubbling is coming from the radiator to reservoir tank hose.

Also do you think getting to 220ish one time for 10 minutes or so has a chance of badly damaging a new engine rebuild.

1999 dt466e. Also how can I tell if the fan is not spinning properly. It spins fast at high rpm but not so much at lower rpm.

Thanks for any advice.

P.s. not noticing burning of any oil or coolant. And no coolant in oil.




Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
there are different DT-466s and different fan clutches.. the mechanical DT-466 used a stud mnount type clutch.. there are 4 or 6 bolts holding the fan clutch to the center hub and 6 bolts holding the fan to the clutch..



removing it.. there are several different ways to approach it.. I have a DT360 (mechanical).. and was able to remove my clutch by putting a piece of cardboard against the inside of the radiator to protect the radiator.. then I separated the fan blade from the clutch, removed the alternator, and separated the clutch from the hib... i was able to pull the fan back against the engine and slide the clutch out carefully...



if you have a DT-466E. you will have a hub mount clutch.. its a single large bolt in the center of the clutch, and its a REVERSE thread.. which means turn it to the RIGHT to LOOSEN it.. you'l need a fan clutch wrench to hold the pulley stopped and then a 2 INCH open end wrench and a little muscle to break that large nut free.. then remove as described before... separate the fan, yank the alternator and slide out the clutch...



I think the kit-masters reman clutches will be anywhere from 200-400 bucks depending on which you need.. you can call navistar dealer, give them last 8 of your VIN and tell them you need a new fan clutch.. dont have a cow when they give you a price.. just ask for the part number... then go shopping... that navistar part number will likely cross reference..



now.. do you need a fan? the answer is yes and no.. you are coprrect in that you can drive with a bad fan c.utch as long as you dont get that engine hot.. but if you happen to end up in a situation where its getting hot.. you need to be preapred to figure out how to cool it down.. run that DT-466 above 230 degrees a time or two and you''ll be replacing the cylinder liner seals.. (rebuilding the engine essentially)..


when the clutch was bad on my DT-360.. it still spun at minimum speed of 300-400 RPM all the time which moves some air.. at idle it ran cold.. in town it ran cold.. on the highway on a hot day.. (above 80 or so).. it would run up to 215 or so... saw it get close to 220 once...



if your clutch is so bad that you dont get minimum speed.. the fan barely spins.. then you will have more tendencies to over-heat under high RPM heavy Load or mountains or towing...



incidently since I replaced my clutch and adjusted the temp down on the new one.. I run up to 185 MAYBE 190 Max.. and I hear that fan roar and ive never seen anything close to 200... except when the air shutters stuck closed once this spring.. it went up to just above 200 before I got them open...then that fan roared to life to quickly cool it down.. and that was a hot day.. 90+
-Christopher
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Old 06-30-2021, 02:12 AM   #9
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,758
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
Part of it depends on how you are driving, if you made your mountain pull foot to the floor and low ( below 2000 rpm) then you lugged the engine a bit.. it’s gonna run hot. Drop down a gear and ride lighter throttle higher rpm even if it means slower uphill climb.

I have a conventional chassis and hear my fan. It’s not jet engine loud but it’s noticeable. It was 95 today and I had all my AC cranked.. in a hilly part of the state I dropped the trans into 3 and ran about 2400 rpm. Never saw 200 ..

Also make sure your radiator is free of debris..

My 3800 chassis was built with a recovery style cap but no reserve bottle just a reservoire with the pressure cap. When you fill the coolant it will expand hot till tge psi reaches the blow off. 10 on mine. The hottest you get it is the most it’s ever expanded so it will blow off to be 100% full at that point. Any overflow goes out tge overflow hose to the ground. I added a bottle to catch and recover tge blow off. When the engine is cold it sucks that back in.

My 444e is different there is no overflow hose so when the cap blows off it leaks all over tge bottle and eventually to the ground .. I have an electric clutch on that one and even with a power tuned engine it never gets hot.

I’m guessing your 466e may have tge type of bottle like in my 444e so expansion looks like ooze all over everything . Don’t fill it past the full cold line as tge excess ends up lost the first time you warm it up. If you have the recovery hose type put a bottle on it abd catch tge overflow and it will be automatically sucked back in when the engine is cold
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Old 07-11-2021, 12:17 AM   #10
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Denver, co
Posts: 58
Year: 1999
Coachwork: International
Chassis: International (I think)
Engine: Dt466e w/ Allison md3060
Rated Cap: 84, 35000 gvwr
Found the problem.

turns out it was a bad thermostat. I am a little upset that it wasn't replaced during my engine rebuild 9 months ago. You would think they would replace a simple item like a thermostat that could fry the new engine if not working properly. I took grades in Montana today foot to the floor bogged down some, but then shifting to higher rpm. 212 215 was the absolute highest. The thermostat opens at 190 and fully at 205, so 210 215 is acceptable on long steady uphill pulls. The bus weighs 28000 lbs as well. I'm talking a few miles of 6% or more grade.

Luckily I have ac running off batteries and solar so it doesn't affect my engine temps.

Next I have to fix my fan ground as its always on, but at least its a freaking aircraft at 2200 -2400 rpm. The mechanic even said it was a super aggressive fan.

What are everybody's thoughts on whether the mechanic should have replaced the thermostat if I paid for an inframe rebuild?
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