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Old 05-12-2007, 08:01 PM   #1
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Chassis: International Loadstar 1803
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generator question

we have the opportunity to get an older (I think the tag said 93 or so) generac np-40g that needs supposedly just minor work for less than $100. does anyone have any opinions on this generator? will it be worth fixing? understandably depending on what is wrong with it. I know it will be a bit small but for the price we are figuring we could make due for a while. we do not plan on using it very often, only in the event of a storm etc when the power is out. thanks for the help. jterry
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Old 05-13-2007, 12:28 AM   #2
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Can you share more detail on what isn't working right? Is it the engine side or the generator side. Many parts for Generac engines & generators can be gotten through your local Briggs & Stratton dealer.
As I am a B&S dealer, if you can give me an idea of what is wrong, I can get details on parts availability & pricing. If the problems are indeed minor, you'd be stealing it for $100! The true generac generators are quite steadfast & durable if maintained properly.
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Old 05-13-2007, 01:26 AM   #3
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right now it looks as if it's engine side. it won't start. we're told it's not getting fire. it's sat quite a while and most likely needs a tune-up etc. we're going to try to tinker with it tomorrow and I'll have a little more details soon.

Briggs & Stratton I have another question for ya

I came across a go-kart for my son. the motor does not have any markings or tags that we can find, how can we tell if it is a B&S or Tecumseh? the motor runs but we need a new gas tank for it and we're having a hard time finding one not knowing what it is. thanks. jterry
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Old 05-13-2007, 09:25 PM   #4
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WARNING: LONG WINDED POST AHEAD!

Pertaining to the generator:

First, find out if your getting spark. Note: if you don't get spark from BOTH coils, the problem is in the ignition shut-down module or the primary wiring circuitry. If you get spark from only ONE coil, it's either a bad coil or bad ignition shut-down module.

Check the oil level!

The unit has an oil pressure switch and an oil "high temp" switch. Both must be working in order for engine to fire. If the oil level is low, or the pressure switch is bad (shorted), you will not get spark. Remove the lead to the pressure switch and shield it from the engine block to prevent shorting to ground (which disables the ignition system). Disconnect and shield the high temp switch lead to bypass it also (in case it is bad and causing a short to ground, disabling the ignition system just like the aforementioned pressure switch).

If you don't have a spark tester (let me know if you want the part # I'll get it for you), you can still check it as follows: On each cylinder, remove the spark plug wire from the plug, and pull the spark plug out of the head. Stick the end of a phillips screwdriver into the spark plug wire. While someone else turns the engine over, hold the screwdriver shaft near the engine block and look for the spark. If it doesn't spark, pull the engine shroud to access the coil. Disconnect the small lead (exciter circuit) from the coil, and check for spark again. If you have spark, the coil is good and the likely cause is a bad ignition shut-down module or primary wiring to it. If no spark, the coil is a goner.

If the gennie has set up for a while, you'll likely need to AT LEAST pull and clean the carb and purge the entire fuel system of water, debris, rust, whatever. It may have to be replaced.

Pertaining to the go-kart:

Before looking for the #'s I detail below, is there anything on the engine anywhere that says "Fun Power"? If so, it's a Briggs. Briggs no longer manufactures or supports go-kart engines, but some parts are still available through Briggs dealers. If you know anybody who races them, they (the racers) know where to get / fabricate just about anything they want for 'em.

Is the go-kart engine an L-head (flat head) or OHV (over head valve)?

For Briggs Engines:

If L-head: follow the spark plug wire back to where it goes under the engine shroud. Look on the shroud above where the plug wire goes under and see if you find 3 sets of characters die-stamped into the shroud. Depending on the age / condition of the unit, you may need a wire brush to clean it up enough to see them. Note: the character sets may be alpha-numeric. The first set (model #) should be 6 characters long followed by a space, then the second set. This is the Type: it will be 4 numbers followed by a space or hyphen and then 2 more characters. The 3rd set of 8 characters is the Code #. The first 6 will be digits, 2 each annotating the year, month & day of production (in that order). The last 2 (may be alpha-numeric) are the facility & production line # where the engine was manufactured.

If OHV: the model, type & code #'s may be on the shroud, but will most likely be die-stamped in the valve cover, usually on the breather hose side.

For Tecumseh Engines (yeah, I'm a dealer for them, too):

Tecumseh uses Model, Specification & DOM (Date of Manufacture) codes as follows: Model will be alpha-numeric, up to 6 characters long, starting with 2 or 3 letters and ending with 2 or 3 numbers. The spec code will be 5 to 7 characters with the first 5 or 6 being #'s, last character being a letter. The DOM will be 4 numbers: the first # is the year of manufacture, the last 3 are the julian day of that year that it was manufactured.

Like the Briggs, older Tecumseh's had the numbers stamped in the shroud on one of the three flat sides, usually above where the plug goes up underneath, but may be on either side of that part of the shroud.

OHV engines have (usually lost / worn off) a sticker on the exhaust side of the engine shroud with these codes listed in model, spec, dom order.
The model # may be on a line above the spec & dom #'s, but if the sticker is still there, the codes should be identified as such.

Failing all of these possibilities of finding ANY numbers, pull the rewind off the unit. See if it has a square-ended clutch mounted on the flywheel that fits into a square hole in the starter rope spool (Briggs), or if the starter rewind has 2 pawls that protrude and retract as the starter rope is pulled and rewound.

If it has pawls and they are plastic & held in place buy a round plastic plate with a center screw, it's a Briggs.

If the pawls are metal and held in by a metal plate and what is best described as a roll-pin with the end flared to prevent the pawl plate from coming off, it's a Tecumseh.

Let me know what you find where on either the gennie or the kart & I'll help you anyway I can.

P.S. If anyone believes we need to take this conversation to PM, please let me know. I posted this because I thought it might help others but again, if we need to take this discussion off-post, please so state.

Thanks!
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Old 05-16-2007, 09:18 PM   #5
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Griff,
Please don't take this to PM, this is the stuff I like to see. Educational and informative!!!!!
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Old 05-16-2007, 11:12 PM   #6
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No problem Brad, glad to know I finally had something of value to contribute in return for all the great info I have gleaned from this most excellent of forums (all homage to Steve the Stupendous ).
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