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Old 04-10-2015, 10:03 PM   #11
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Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
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I guess I was lucky, I drove my bus back from Cleveland OH in below freezing weather with only 2 of the 5 heaters running on low, the other 3 were off because with them all on I was baking
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Old 04-10-2015, 10:09 PM   #12
Skoolie
 
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Tullahoma, Tennessee
Posts: 214
Year: 2002
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Chassis: RE300
Engine: DT466E (250h.p.)
Rated Cap: 81
family wagon, I was skeptical also but was willing to try it because it's a tax write off. The first few days I was waiting for them to self destruct (and picturing the other drivers laughing at me) but no problems thus far and I run 3 hours a day, 5 days a week.

Kubla, you said you ordered a set through those links? Cool! I don't think you'll be disappointed! Hopefully at some point I'll take pictures and post in the Tips section..., but several things to point out:

1) They flicker rapidly when used as running lights. Instead of going to the trouble to add anti-flicker modules I just turn them all the way on. Safer that way anyway. Otherwise, these would probably work: http://www.amazon.com/Truck-Lite-Hea...gy_auto_text_z There's also resistors but this one seems to make more sense.

2) The conversion headlights actually come with halogen bulbs. I took them out before testing so I have no idea if those bulbs are any good. Might be worth trying- especially for those that want to convert the cheapest way.

3) The conversion headlights will need to be modified. There's a metal "cup" inside the headlight that isn't needed. I used needle nose pliers to undo them and bent them so they could be extracted. Also, the rubber seal will have to be cut out in the center to fit over the LEDs. Just cut away the "doughnut" and stretch it over the LED heat sink to place it against the metal prong. The metal piece holding the assembly to the glass housing is pretty flimsy but once the light is in the rubber seal holds it all together snugly. Also also, the metal tab on the LED is held on by two tiny screws so be careful when handling the assembly.

3) Seems counter intuitive at first glance but make sure the low beam LED is aimed at the top of the headlight. When it shines up it reflects out and down - thus the sharp cutoff.

4) The heat sink is a tight fit in the IH assembly. However, once in it seems pretty solid! I just bent the tabs a little and gave it a firm push. Didn't damage anything and who knows- maybe makes the heat sinks more effective!

5) The adapter plugs right up to the IH assembly. I just tie wrapped the module to the wiring harness and it seems to work ok.

Anyway, I guess I could use a bunch of exclamation points and jump up and down or something but I am completely sold on this kind of setup. IMO it's not even worth discussing other options unless you only have $20 to spend. I grin every time I turn them on because they work so well. Heck, even the kids noticed them! They think we have the coolest bus because of the pimped out lights (and the sound system I'm putting in)!!! ...So, here's a bunch of exclamation points to get my point across: !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 04-10-2015, 10:36 PM   #13
Skoolie
 
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dond, those are the same size as the ones I have. Not sure about the 4 bulb setup.
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Old 04-11-2015, 05:24 PM   #14
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Stony Plain Alberta Canada
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Year: 1992
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I run two small 6 inch 12 LED light bars on 2 really strong magnets each. On my small Honda car, I mount them down 12 inches from the ground, in my front bumper.
On my work truck they ride on the top of the front bumper.

If I was driving my bus, they would be somewhere below the height of most peoples faces to prevent temporary blinding.

I run a 60 degree pattern, in elliptical. Elliptical means there is a sharp line at the height of the LED light bar where the light ends. Everything from the light height down is illuminated, no light is wasted shining off into peoples eyes.

This also makes the lights seem more efficient then some other cheap crap light bars.

When driving in heavy traffic I shut them off.

For now they just use a fuse and clips to the battery terminals. I said three years ago I would put them on a switch.

Nat
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Old 04-11-2015, 06:16 PM   #15
Skoolie
 
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Location: Tullahoma, Tennessee
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Chassis: RE300
Engine: DT466E (250h.p.)
Rated Cap: 81
'Twas wondering about those light bars. Most of my route is on narrow windy country roads and was thinking those might make good low flood lights to spread the beam. The wiring is there for fog lights so I would just need to get a switch. Curious what kind/brand you're using if you have a link (or posted in one of your threads).
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Old 04-11-2015, 07:15 PM   #16
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Join Date: Aug 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boojiewoojie View Post
'Twas wondering about those light bars. Most of my route is on narrow windy country roads and was thinking those might make good low flood lights to spread the beam. The wiring is there for fog lights so I would just need to get a switch. Curious what kind/brand you're using if you have a link (or posted in one of your threads).
I will have to look up the link for mine. They are just over 3 years old.

You can get them from 10 degree pattern, to a full 120 degree flood pattern.

The 120 degree's really blind oncoming traffic if they aren't elliptical beam.

Nat
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Old 04-15-2015, 05:06 PM   #17
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Location: MNT CITY TN
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I drove my bus several times at night, complaining about my headlights...they had no reflective chrome/silver whatever left on them!!!!

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Old 04-15-2015, 11:58 PM   #18
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Location: Montana
Posts: 1,615
Year: 1995
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Chassis: All-American R/E
Engine: 8.3 Cummins
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Contact Daniel@ Daniel Stern Lighting Consultancy and Supply

He helped me a great deal and now I have overwhelmingly wonderful lights.
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