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Old 06-16-2016, 09:22 AM   #11
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Ahhh yes, I see those Dayton styles on older buses. I've generally had them on an "avoid" list. Many "what bus to buy" type of online articles advise to stay away from that kind of rim...I just kind of took their word for it...lol.

So, my bus definitely doesn't have those.
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Old 06-16-2016, 09:38 AM   #12
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I'll add this here for completion and to keep the wheel conversation going. Here's the thread on skoolie.net about wheel types:
Wheel types: Dayton and Budd pros, cons and other info

It lays out some pros, cons and photos as well.
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Old 06-16-2016, 11:17 AM   #13
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If you start looking for 19.5 rims, make sure you let them know you are looking for the big 10 bolt pattern, not the more common, small 10 that comes on all the newer ford f550 and 450 trucks.
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Old 06-16-2016, 12:04 PM   #14
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I am going to explore the door option today, as I am heading over to my shop. It would require modding the whole deal, but buying 19" wheels/tires and or modding rims, etc all have cost, so either way putting inside requires cash. The only non cash option is airing everything down and squeezing it in there. For the no cost factor, it would be great if it worked.
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Old 06-16-2016, 03:09 PM   #15
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I actually Love the dayton rims.. if you bang up a Rim they are cheapo and everywhere...

if you get a flat on a steer... one man CAN handle a dayton rim to make a swap of a tandem to the steer axle to limp you to a safe place without a truckdown service..

you can also carry a spare with daytons..

the ones that are on most people;s Avoid List are the old split rim daytons or the tab rim datytons which both used inner-tubes.. thos have been gone out of production since the early 80s and were required removed from semi trucks by I think it was 88 or 90.. but Dayton rims are mainly on older busses.. Budd's are common on a lot of busses in this forum (I have dayton's) and on all new stuff its hub-pilot style rims..

does your bus have full air ride suspsension ? if so flattening the air bag suspension is usually good for 3-6" depending on the bag setup.. mine is rear only but I tried letting al lthe air out of mine as an experiment for you and I Lost about 4-5" of height off my rear... I dont have front air suspension but I could easily see getting 4-5" by letting Most of the air outr of the steers.. mine are 11R22.5 fronts so a pretty tall tire...

-Christopher
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Old 06-16-2016, 06:23 PM   #16
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I have the old tube style Dayton's and from everything I have gathered is that I am stuck with my 9r20's.
Is there an acceptable swap out rim to go radial?
I am looking into changing the rear end but I want it to be one (hub,rim,tire) that I can change my front end to also?
Or find a way to update my tubed Dayton's to tubeless.
I have been told that 10r22.5 would work but my rims need a tube so if I did change to tubeless tire size I would still need a tube and boot?
Any ideas. Any comment's good or bad is appreciated and you won't hurt my feelings cause I have been chasing this dog for awhile?
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Old 06-16-2016, 06:53 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RC000E View Post
I am going to explore the door option today, as I am heading over to my shop. It would require modding the whole deal, but buying 19" wheels/tires and or modding rims, etc all have cost, so either way putting inside requires cash. The only non cash option is airing everything down and squeezing it in there. For the no cost factor, it would be great if it worked.
It sounds like have have some weld/fab capabilities so make some wheel dollies that fit your hubs with out rims and use a winch or chain hoist to pull it in.
They make steel casters all day long that won't bend buckle or bow under the weight?
If you have a drop (like concrete to gravel) that would catch the casters going in then use some good lumber to make a smooth transition even if it is all the way back to the rear? With rear air bags maybe the front is your only problem?
If you are able pics of the garage entrance and of the door inside and out would help?
I have helped move equipment heavier than (because it wasnt built before the roof wenton ) with steel pipe, pinch bars and all kinds of old Egyptian style.
Yes 10'4" is 10'4" but if you are driving in on grade then 10'4" could be 11' or more 10'4 is only 10'4 if the entire bus is level and most unloaded are not.
You might know this and you might not.
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Old 06-16-2016, 09:53 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jolly Roger View Post
I have the old tube style Dayton's and from everything I have gathered is that I am stuck with my 9r20's.
Is there an acceptable swap out rim to go radial?
I am looking into changing the rear end but I want it to be one (hub,rim,tire) that I can change my front end to also?
Or find a way to update my tubed Dayton's to tubeless.
I have been told that 10r22.5 would work but my rims need a tube so if I did change to tubeless tire size I would still need a tube and boot?
It is my understanding the 20 / 22.5 rims will interchange perfectly. The 22.5 rims are made in both 7.5 and 8.25 inch widths, either of which should fit the 10R22.5 tires; anything larger should use the 8.25" wheels. 20" tires are usually tube-type, where the 22.5's are tubeless.
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Old 06-17-2016, 12:50 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by Brad_SwiftFur View Post
It is my understanding the 20 / 22.5 rims will interchange perfectly. The 22.5 rims are made in both 7.5 and 8.25 inch widths, either of which should fit the 10R22.5 tires; anything larger should use the 8.25" wheels. 20" tires are usually tube-type, where the 22.5's are tubeless.
if he has daytons wouldnt he also have to change the Hub to go to a bigger size rim?
-Christopher
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Old 06-17-2016, 04:45 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
if he has daytons wouldnt he also have to change the Hub to go to a bigger size rim?
-Christopher
Nope! My IH/Carpenter has 22.5's on the front and 20's on the back. My local mechanic (from who the bus was bought) (and several other sources) tell me the wheels will interchange perfectly (and he has a number of junkers around his lot I can probably get some wheels off of, for a fair price).

Now if you're talking 22" tubes to 24.5 tubeless, it's the same deal. All bets are off, if you want to go from 20's to 22's or 24.5's.

Budd wheels are a whole different breed. As far as trucks and buses go, the vast majority of 10-lug Budds boil down to 2 basic types (sizes should interchange). There's the older "stud piloted" wheels and the newer "Hub piloted" wheels. How do you tell the difference? The stud piloted wheels use a tapered nut to center the wheel on the studs. For the rear duals, it's a 2-piece inner stud, middle nut/stud, and outer nut. All are tapered to center the wheel on the studs.
The hub piloted wheels have a precision machined hub and wheel, the nuts typically have made-in washers the help spread the load over a larger surface area of the wheel, helping to reduce metal fatigue and wheel cracking. The studs do not bear as much of the weight; their job is to secure the wheel to the hub. One thing I have witnessed with hub piloted wheels is if the nuts aren't tight, a hard bump can break off the flanges that are intended to center the wheel, causing a vibration at speeds. They are there to center the wheel when mounting it, *NOT* to carry the weight of the vehicle.
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