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Old 03-03-2014, 04:49 PM   #1
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Moved

A person having read my post re. pop rivets etc will have noticed in section 3.1.2.2 and I quote:

"Hollow rivets are made in sizes up to about 6 mm diameter and lengths up to about
25 mm. They are relatively light-duty components. They were formerly widely used
for such tasks as fixing brake linings to brake shoes (adhesive bonding is now used
for this)."

This passage might cause a person to re-evaluate the use of hollow rivets for other than the simple application of sheet metal. Food for thought.
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Old 03-03-2014, 08:40 PM   #2
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Re: Moved

Actually, the frames are usually welded and the skins are pop riveted, I believe. Even on that thread you posted (that rig was a work of art, btw), the rivets are mostly just for skinning, correct? I don't think any one here doubts rivets use for skinning.

Just from my observation on my bus, I have too many loose, wallowed out, rivets to rivet anything that will be hidden. Maybe I'm just arrogant and put too much faith in my welding. I am pretty damn good at it, though
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Old 03-04-2014, 12:53 PM   #3
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Re: Moved

What sort of tool is used for solid ribbits?
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Old 03-04-2014, 01:43 PM   #4
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Re: Moved

So on your bus, you plan to use solid rivets? That would definitely seem the better choice (obviously). Do you plan to use aluminum or steel rivets?
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Old 03-05-2014, 12:02 AM   #5
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Re: Moved

thanks.
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Old 03-06-2014, 12:53 PM   #6
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Re: Moved

98% of the riveting on my bus was done with 3/16" to 1/4" solid steel rivets. For most of the job it requires 2 people, but once you get used to the process it gets quite fast. I'm no pro, but a friend of mine who repairs airplanes stopped by one day and looked at the shop-head (back side) of the rivet and said they were fine so with a bit of practice and the appropriate literature/Youtube videos I think anyone can do it. Other plus - aside from the strength of solid vs blind rivets - is the cost. They are an order of magnitude cheaper than blind rivets and, in my opinion, seal the hole better.

Did I mention it's also a good bit of fun for you and a buddy to be waking the entire neighbourhood in the process?

I picked up a used APT/Jiffy 400 4x rivet gun (http://www.clearairtools.com/index.p...roducts_id=472) on eBay for something like $70 and a bucking bar for $20. You can also use a heavy chunk of steel if you have it lying around, but it'll eventually get beat up. 1.25" diameter steel rod was handy for getting into small spaces.
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Old 03-06-2014, 03:35 PM   #7
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Re: Moved

Plugging this discussion into some other thread as she (Sara) sees fit is fine with me. I'm glad to have had the opportunity to provide the vessel by which the appropriate use of rivets of all types has finally become clear.
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Old 03-06-2014, 03:53 PM   #8
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Re: Moved

But then you miss out on the arm tan!! And the facial tan if your an idiot and welding blind under a car with your eyes closed! And lighting your clothes on fire...many times...
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Old 03-06-2014, 05:00 PM   #9
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Re: Moved

Jake. Music to my ears--though its hard to top the exquesite pain of a missed hammer strike when setting a steel rivet.
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