Originally Posted by GoneCamping
I don't know about the camber etc... But the Jeep 4x4 is easy to set-up, baseplates are readily available, easy to self install, and even the tail lights have special red lens chambers for adding tow light kits to them. The part that really makes them good for towing is the manual transfer case goes into neutral, the transmission stays in park...you can tow all day long without need to start the motor or pump fluids, and a gazzilion mies later the Jeep has no added mileage because it is still in PARK...
Adding in additional camber really wouldn't be difficult for an alignment shop that has a tech that knows what he is doing. It might make the Jeep somewhat harder to handle when you're driving it, but power steering pumps rarely go into bypass unless you are trying to move the curb with your tire leading me to believe there is plenty of power assist reserve capacity.
As for towing with the transfer case in neutral...that is debateable. A lot is going to depend on what transfer case you have in the first place. If you have an old CJ or FSJ with a Dana 20 or Dana 300 then I would see no problems in driving that in neutral. I think they would be more than capable of slinging 80w90 off the gears in neutral though truth be told, I like to pack the rear output bearings with grease on old gear drives like that. I'm not sure how long the grease lasts and they're supposed to be oil bath bearings, but I don't always trust those slingers.
Now if you own a slightly newer Jeep with an NP231 (like an XJ, YJ, or MJ) it is not a good idea to tow without pulling the rear shaft because the front and rear outputs get tied together like on the Toyotas. Now somewhere down the line (I know in 1999, but maybe earlier?) the range and mode functions were liberated via a small modification to an internal shift collar.
Other Jeeps have rather elaborate full time 4wd setups, but I don't think they are what you're going to find tagging along as the average toad, but if you did you would need to pull the rear shaft.
All things considered I could keep rambling on with reasons why you should pull the rear shaft, but I can only come up with one good reason not to and that's that you just plain don't want to do the work. And that is fine. I just like the piece of mind that comes with removing 4 bolts.
Toyota guys have a cool, albeit expensive option available to them. Front Range Offroad makes a full floating conversion kit for the Toyota rear axles that's going to get you disc brakes and more strength. You can break an axleshaft with their conversion and it won't matter. The wheel will still stay on. That's nice piece of mind. But the best part of the conversion is that you get manual locking hubs for the rear as well. Turn 4 dials and you've totally 100% disconnected your driveline. Unfortunately, the kit is $669 and you still need to source load Supra calipers and a bunch of 79-85 solid front axle parts which are getting to be a bit expensive with the limited aftermarket. They aren't making any more of those parts...