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Old 01-06-2007, 11:25 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoneCamping
I somehow picture that drive shaft shredding itself to pieces very quickly.
Thanks for the advice.....I was thinking of just finding a #40 sprocket that would slide over top of that driveshaft. I guess i better re-think that.

perhaps find an adapter that fits snugly inside the driveshaft and has 1" solid steel shaft to mount bearings and the sprockets onto.

or I could find a solid pto shaft that uses the same size U-joints as the current setup.....

I think you just helped to avoid a big problem.
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Old 01-06-2007, 11:34 PM   #22
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Hollow drive shafts get their strength much like an egg shell does. The overall design lends itself well to providing torque in it's tubular design. The ends of the tube fit over and attach to solid inserts. The point where you want to place your sprocket is hollow, and has no real strength there. Now if you had a solid shaft (like the front shaft on my Jeep) then you could probably run a sprocket off of that. But the hollow shaft won't take the stress in the middle of the shaft like that...
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Old 01-06-2007, 11:50 PM   #23
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Those electric actuators are what would allow you to have a lincoln locker and are what would be replaced by the posi-lock cables. With the rear end lincoln locked, you could flip the switch and only the short side axle shaft would be turned. It would still kinda sorta function like an open diff in that only one wheel would be powered.
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Old 01-07-2007, 12:07 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the_experience03
Those electric actuators are what would allow you to have a lincoln locker and are what would be replaced by the posi-lock cables. With the rear end lincoln locked, you could flip the switch and only the short side axle shaft would be turned. It would still kinda sorta function like an open diff in that only one wheel would be powered.
i get it now......

it would be just like welding the spider gears in your dana 60 front axle and unlocking one of the manual hubs....I wonder if the added stress of that would cause the CV shafts to explode immediately, or if i'd get a few hours of enjoyment out of her first.....IF i go that route, perhaps i'll find another identicle differential to expierment with. If i don't like it, i'll pull it out and install the open dif....Lockers sure do seem attractive to me....

Everything i read tells me how frail and worthless the GM ifs system is. The k2500 heavy duty does have the largest of the IFS units...the 9.5 I think it is. I started with very low expectations when i began wheeling with this truck. I can't believe the places the ifs allows me to go. My 38" swampers take me places people with solid axles (especially dana 60's) need 44's to get through because the pig hangs down so far. I beat on this truck quite a few times out on the trail and the only drivetrain/chassis component i've had to replace was a tie rod end...

Now i would estimate that the truck weighs 1,500-2000 pounds less than stock. I found a website that sais the truck weighed 4,387, but didn't specivy 2 or 4 wd. I'll put this truck on the scale eventually
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Old 01-07-2007, 12:23 AM   #25
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I think the CV's would be ok as long as you took it easy on them. When you had the thing unlocked, it would be wise to avoid putting the wheel at full lock and hammering the throttle. With your lightweight, you should be fine. I'm yet to pop a birfield in my truck because I follow my own advice...lay off the skinny pedal when turned.
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Old 01-07-2007, 12:50 AM   #26
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Check your farm supply store for a PTO shaft that has compatable U joints for a driveshaft, they will probably have the chain and sprockets also. You should probably think about drilling the pinion sprocket and bolting it to the yoke as well as welding, i think that the yoke is probably cast or nodular iron and not steel. Use a high nickel content welding rod for cast iron, preheat your parts and cool slowly after welding. Make sure to install an adequate shield to deflect all shrapnel down when something grenades.
I think that with the minimal amount of weight and relatively low torque of the stock small block that this setup has a lot of potential .
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Old 01-07-2007, 02:28 AM   #27
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#60 chain, especially ina double configuration would be WAY more than sufficient. That's what the big mud draggers use with their 1500+ hp which propels them down a 300 foot mud track in well under 3 seconds.

http://powerproracingproducts.com/categories/63.html
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Old 01-07-2007, 03:28 AM   #28
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Oh, boy.

I must mention something ...

Did you realize that you have wasted a HUGE amount of time here? You do realize that the front axle, if turned around backwards, operates the same way as the front axle in your truck, right? In other words, if you turn the pinion yoke the same direction as the front, the rear will push the tires, while the front will pull the tires.

In other words..... let me see if I can explain it in simple terms....

turn the front driveshaft counterclockwise as viewed from the rear of the truck.
the tires pull the truck forward.

(*install the rear axlehousing like the original solid axle orientation, with the pinion pointing forward)
turn the rear drive yoke counterclockwise as viewed from the rear of the truck. *which also means clockwise if viewed from the transfer case end.

the rear axle will pull the truck forward. *(or PUSH, depending on your view, however skewed.)


In other words, you installed the rearmost drive axle assembly backwards.








NIIIIIIIICE!
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Old 01-07-2007, 11:34 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imadumass
Oh, boy.....


In other words, you installed the rearmost drive axle assembly backwards.

NIIIIIIIICE!
if both the front and rear driveshafts spin in the same direction ie: clockwise, then the rear axle assembly is installed correctly

here's a beautiful hand drawing showing the current axle configuration looking from the top down

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Old 01-07-2007, 12:11 PM   #30
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i'm at work today for 24 hours so i can't go check out my truck and see
about the T-case. GRRRR!


As luck would have it, i found a guy with a 4wd suburban. I layed down
next to it while he drove a foot or two and i now have the definitive
answer.........




My axle configuration is correct. Both front and rear drive shafts spin in
the same direction. I had talked to several junk yard guys when i was starting the project and had discussed axle orientation with them, and not a single one suggested I was incorrect.

another disaster averted lol
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