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10-04-2019, 06:42 PM
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#1
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 58
Year: 2007
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Thomas
Engine: Cummins 5.9
Rated Cap: 8 seats, 5 wheelchairs
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No Heat
No heat in my bus, not house heat, bus heat from the engine. The two valves that are on the side of the engine are OPEN, the slide thing on the dash is moved over to the hot side and the aux. pump is turned on. I've been running the engine at high idle and the gauge is showing 200-205 degrees. I think that's normal for a 3126 CAT. The radiator is hot to the touch as is the heater hoses right next to the engine, as I get a foot away from the engine they start to cool off. The heater control valve at the right side of the engine that the slide on the dash controls as far as I can tell is open and is slightly warm. AND NO HEAT IN THE BUS. I left the two big heaters that go under seat in the back, just shortened up the hoses and brought them forward hoping we would have more warmth up front where we will be riding. Anyone with first hand experience that can help a frustrated old guy out? Thanks
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10-04-2019, 06:56 PM
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#2
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Picton,Ont, Can.
Posts: 1,956
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: GMC
Engine: Cat 3116
Rated Cap: 72
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Let the bus cool down then open the rad filler cap and then and start the bus. Watch for bubbles of air appearing or not. Might be an airlock in the system from the work you did. If low on coolant top it up as needed.
Thermostat sounds as if it is working if rad is getting hot so could be a rad blockage as well but hard to say until you heck for air in the cooling system.
You might need a good flush of the rad.
Check linkage on those slider controls you mentioned but they only add air to lower cabin heat I think.
John
__________________
Question everything!
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10-04-2019, 07:27 PM
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#3
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Andrews,Indiana
Posts: 2,430
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: AARE
Engine: 3116 Cat 250hp
Rated Cap: Just the two of us.
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There could also be a air bleed on the top of the main heater/defroster radiator.
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10-04-2019, 09:09 PM
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#4
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 58
Year: 2007
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Thomas
Engine: Cummins 5.9
Rated Cap: 8 seats, 5 wheelchairs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by somewhereinusa
There could also be a air bleed on the top of the main heater/defroster radiator.
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I'll look for that. I do have a fitting under the floor about the drivers seat area where several of the heater hoses come together and the aux. pump is there also, this fitting has a schrader valve in it. Never seen thins in a heater hose, A/C maybe, but not heater. Could that be for dumping air?
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10-04-2019, 09:22 PM
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#5
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 58
Year: 2007
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Thomas
Engine: Cummins 5.9
Rated Cap: 8 seats, 5 wheelchairs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackJohn
Let the bus cool down then open the rad filler cap and then and start the bus. Watch for bubbles of air appearing or not. Might be an airlock in the system from the work you did. If low on coolant top it up as needed.
Thermostat sounds as if it is working if rad is getting hot so could be a rad blockage as well but hard to say until you heck for air in the cooling system.
You might need a good flush of the rad.
Check linkage on those slider controls you mentioned but they only add air to lower cabin heat I think.
John
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I drained the coolant and put a couple bottles of the prestone radiator flush and then started working on the no heat thing. First thought it might be the valves on the side of the engine but they were both open. Then went to the slide control on the dash and followed it to the control valve in the right corner of the bus. From looking at it on the outside it APPEARS to be working. So I started taking hose connections loose and using compressed air to blow the water through them to see if they were blocked. Everything appears to be clear. You and "SomewhereintheUSA" both mentioned airlock, is that a common problem? Never experienced that on any other vehicles I've worked on but I've never worked with a hundred feet of heater either. Thanks.
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10-04-2019, 10:15 PM
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#6
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Picton,Ont, Can.
Posts: 1,956
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: GMC
Engine: Cat 3116
Rated Cap: 72
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"You and "SomewhereintheUSA" both mentioned airlock, is that a common problem?"
In my mind it is a fairly common occurence in that it takes a fair amount of time to get it right, even if one is seasoned in this work. Takes patience more than anything to do properly.
Not sure about that valve you mentioned but it might bleed air, give it a try.
John
__________________
Question everything!
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10-04-2019, 11:14 PM
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#7
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2018
Location: topeka kansas
Posts: 1,769
Year: 1954
Coachwork: wayne
Chassis: old f500- new 2005 f-450
Engine: cummins 12 valve
Rated Cap: 20? five rows of 4?
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air ..
I would put that schrader valve at the highest part of the internal heater system......... but anyways,,, that booster pump should help also... can you afford to crack a hose loose at one of the higher connections inside the bus?
reaching for unusual solutions for unusual problem.
william
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10-05-2019, 01:57 AM
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#8
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: south east BC, close to the Canadian/US border
Posts: 2,265
Year: 1975
Coachwork: Chevy
Chassis: 8 window
Engine: 454 LS7
Rated Cap: 24,500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1dmpo
No heat in my bus, not house heat, bus heat from the engine. The two valves that are on the side of the engine are OPEN, the slide thing on the dash is moved over to the hot side and the aux. pump is turned on. I've been running the engine at high idle and the gauge is showing 200-205 degrees. I think that's normal for a 3126 CAT. The radiator is hot to the touch as is the heater hoses right next to the engine, as I get a foot away from the engine they start to cool off. The heater control valve at the right side of the engine that the slide on the dash controls as far as I can tell is open and is slightly warm. AND NO HEAT IN THE BUS. I left the two big heaters that go under seat in the back, just shortened up the hoses and brought them forward hoping we would have more warmth up front where we will be riding. Anyone with first hand experience that can help a frustrated old guy out? Thanks
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I made a 600+ mile trip in the bus I just bought - the valves to shut off heat to the cabin of the bus had been closed for 6 years - it took over 400 miles of driving before the air bubbles were chased from the system and I started to get some heat - now there is lots of heat
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10-05-2019, 02:43 AM
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#9
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 3,856
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Thomas Built Bus
Chassis: Freightliner FS65
Engine: Caterpillar 3126E Diesel
Rated Cap: 71 Passenger- 30,000 lbs.
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I do not know your particular model, but our FS-65 has a Cat 3126. Your CAT has thermostats with bleed holes that allow air to pass through them when filling. The air vents out through the reservoir tank. So, you may care to pay special attention to the level in the reservoir. The heater lines come out of the engine block at the rear of the engine and lead through the heaters and back into the "y" connection at the bottom of the reservoir. The circulation pump moves the coolant through the heaters. So, if you are sure you have the proper level on the reservoir and that the circulation pump is moving the coolant, any air in the lines will eventually move out of the heaters and out the reservoir ... unless you have a blocked heater hose. Again, keep a close eye on the coolant level in the reservoir.
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10-05-2019, 08:26 AM
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#10
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 58
Year: 2007
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Thomas
Engine: Cummins 5.9
Rated Cap: 8 seats, 5 wheelchairs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Native
I do not know your particular model, but our FS-65 has a Cat 3126. Your CAT has thermostats with bleed holes that allow air to pass through them when filling. The air vents out through the reservoir tank. So, you may care to pay special attention to the level in the reservoir. The heater lines come out of the engine block at the rear of the engine and lead through the heaters and back into the "y" connection at the bottom of the reservoir. The circulation pump moves the coolant through the heaters. So, if you are sure you have the proper level on the reservoir and that the circulation pump is moving the coolant, any air in the lines will eventually move out of the heaters and out the reservoir ... unless you have a blocked heater hose. Again, keep a close eye on the coolant level in the reservoir.
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I'm in a flat nose built in '03 with 3126e. There is not a reservoir tank, it has a overflow tube that simply runs down the side of the radiator and dumps under the bus. With switch on and engine not running I can hear the aux pump running but I don't know for sure if or how much coolant it might be moving. I'll try to barely loosen a hose next to it and see if it's moving much coolant. One of my first thoughts was a blocked hose, that was the reason for blowing compressed air through everything. I'll follow up and go through that process again. Thanks.
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10-06-2019, 12:56 AM
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#11
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 3,856
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Thomas Built Bus
Chassis: Freightliner FS65
Engine: Caterpillar 3126E Diesel
Rated Cap: 71 Passenger- 30,000 lbs.
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I suppose you'll have to keep your eye on the radiator level then. The statement about the thermostats still holds though (they will work the air out).
Yes, loosening one of the hoses would tell you you have flow. You can start at the one that goes out of the coolant pump which would tell you you have coolant TO the heaters. Then work down the line to the first junction (perhaps the heater core) and see if you have coolant there. Keep following the path until you see no coolant.
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08-05-2022, 10:21 AM
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#12
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New Member
Join Date: Feb 2022
Location: Montgomery County, MD
Posts: 6
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fuel tank heater pick up valve
I apologize if this is not the right thread. we have a 2007 thomas School Bus and it needs a new fuel tank. when taking off the old tank the Webasto pick up valve was fully rusted and broke apart. I am being told this is the valve to provide heat to the coolant system to help it not freeze. I am also being told we do not need this especially not before winter months. it is on backorder for at least 2 months. does anyone here know if I can get the new fuel tank installed and not use the heater and then install it later when the valve comes in? Also it was crazy expensive for a 13 inch piece of pipe and fitting. Any knowledge would be greatly appreciated.
thanks Dee
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08-05-2022, 11:34 AM
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#13
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2018
Location: topeka kansas
Posts: 1,769
Year: 1954
Coachwork: wayne
Chassis: old f500- new 2005 f-450
Engine: cummins 12 valve
Rated Cap: 20? five rows of 4?
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Dee
As long as you have some way to access the area after the fuel tank is installed. Yes you can put the tank in and do the fuel feed later. The webasto coolant heater also - heats the inside of your bus. If the heater is big enough you can stay toasty warm and not have the bus engine running to do it.
Now if you put together a complex system, that coolant heater can also heat water, like for a shower.
webasto is german company with experience making fuel fired heaters since at least 1940's. The stuff is not cheap. But I do think they are better at this than most. That tube that rusted.... Can you assemble one from brass fittings? Do that and you wont have to worry about rust. This is a fuel pick up for the heater.
william call if you want 7 5 - 2 7 - 7 0
8 0 6 0
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