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Old 04-25-2016, 03:55 PM   #21
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Check your fuel shut off valve to see if fuel is still flowing to the pump. This isn't the first time I've heard of an electronic fuel shut off valve working intermittently.
If that is the problem you can replace the replacement electronic valve or you could install a manual valve and never have this problem again.

Again, just a first guess.
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Old 04-25-2016, 04:03 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Robin97396 View Post
Check your fuel shut off valve to see if fuel is still flowing to the pump. This isn't the first time I've heard of an electronic fuel shut off valve working intermittently.
If that is the problem you can replace the replacement electronic valve or you could install a manual valve and never have this problem again.

Again, just a first guess.
I don't actually have the bus yet, so unfortunately can't check anything yet. Still debating weather or not I want it now after discovering the starting issue.
If it is the fuel shut off valve, sounds simple enough.

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Old 04-25-2016, 05:08 PM   #23
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My DT stared IMMEDIATELY in 10 degrees F in KY in Nov. With only ONE G31 battery. After sitting for around six months.
Cat guys need like 2 8D's to think about starting!
interesting.. is the compression just higher in the DT's to allow them to start without any help?

what oil do you run in the DT? 15-40 rotella T?
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Old 04-25-2016, 06:38 PM   #24
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interesting.. is the compression just higher in the DT's to allow them to start without any help?

what oil do you run in the DT? 15-40 rotella T?
I'm running 15w40.
Rural King house brand.
IDK, but everyone I know with a DT inline engine says theirs start instantly as well.
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Old 04-25-2016, 07:28 PM   #25
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I'm running 15w40.
Rural King house brand.
IDK, but everyone I know with a DT inline engine says theirs start instantly as well.
good deal.. sounds like I got the right kind of engine!, (and have a half a chance of working on it myself too!).. if I end up not liking my AT545 trans i'll just swap it for a 2100 or 2400..
-Christopher
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Old 04-25-2016, 10:02 PM   #26
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So are the 2100 or 2400 superior to the 643? I'm trying to stay away from anything that has electronics on it. I understand the Allison 640 is a hydraulically controlled tranny, and I'm just guessing that it's compatible with the correct bell housing. Anyone familiar with this? Am I chasing the wrong transmission?
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Old 04-25-2016, 10:31 PM   #27
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Allison's 5th gen trannies can talk to an all mechanical engine with nothing more than a TPS (throttle position sensor). They have been out now for about three years (?) and there may be a few avail at the graveyards. Big change from the all proprietary computer speak models.

Mine is a six-speed, 2200 MH that works that way.
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Old 04-26-2016, 01:08 PM   #28
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Any good high detergent heavy duty diesel engine oil like Rotella, Ursa, Delo, or Delvac in 15W-40 will work as long as it is NOT the LE version of those oils.

The LE version of oils is formulated for 2007 and newer engines and is NOT reverse compatible.

It is available if you ask for it but is usually not found on the shelves of Wal-Mart, Costco, and most auto and truck supply stores.

The newer LE oils do not have the ZDDP that is required in older engines, the lack of which will cause undue wear and premature engine failure.

If you never shut the engine off you would be okay. The problem is on start up--when the oil drains back into the sump the resulting film left behind will not have the necessary lubrication to prevent metal on metal wear on things like cam faces, cam followers, and tappets.
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Old 04-26-2016, 01:18 PM   #29
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We just had this problem starter at Advance cost over $300. Still best deal we could find for new starter.
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Old 04-26-2016, 02:05 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by cowlitzcoach View Post
Any good high detergent heavy duty diesel engine oil like Rotella, Ursa, Delo, or Delvac in 15W-40 will work as long as it is NOT the LE version of those oils.

The LE version of oils is formulated for 2007 and newer engines and is NOT reverse compatible.

It is available if you ask for it but is usually not found on the shelves of Wal-Mart, Costco, and most auto and truck supply stores.

The newer LE oils do not have the ZDDP that is required in older engines, the lack of which will cause undue wear and premature engine failure.

If you never shut the engine off you would be okay. The problem is on start up--when the oil drains back into the sump the resulting film left behind will not have the necessary lubrication to prevent metal on metal wear on things like cam faces, cam followers, and tappets.
which oil is easily found? the LE or the Non LE? I got confused... in my old hotrods I ran a ZDDP supplement as the modern oils had the same issue for older gasoline motors too..

-Christopher
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