OT- Tractors, Mowers, Power Equipment Thread!

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by BlackJohn

Too me that reading you got from the clutch pto looks low. Is there any info in your manual to suggest what range it should be at? I'm thinking more somewhere between 12 and 30 ohms, which is my best guess from experience.

Is there a specific rpm maybe that needs to be reached to engage the pto?

Sometimes they do that to take the load off the belts and keep them from flopping at low rpm.

Is there a connector right at the clutch for the wiring? Maybe take a 12v hot right there from the battery and listen and see if it engages that way too.
Check the wire harness from the switch to the clutch for worn or bent irregularities and wiggle those areas to see if any difference.

John

I've checked all over and the ohms should read between 2-4 depending on the manufacturer. But all the info vids on YT showed similar to mine in the 3's.
If the clutch is gone my life is over for the rest of the year and I'm beyond screwed, as the clutch is out of production and NO ONE has em anymore.
No specific rpm, its electric and will engage any time the button is pulled when its functioning. I start my blades at about 40% throttle typically as going full rpm and engaging the pto is the #1 reason pto clutches on mowers wear prematurely.
I've checked the wires coming out of the pto clutch, they're not worn, burned, or hardened. I wrapped it in electrical tape for good measure, cleaned the connector, and every wire on the mower seems sound to me.
I'm gonna go out and see if I'm smart enough to figure out how to test the ignition switch with my multimeter.
I'm getting a lot better at this, but it still isn't my forte'.
I'd HATE to have to take this to a mower shop. EVERY mower shop in this whole area are just incredibly rude douche bags. I'm scared to imagine what they'd charge me.

Life gets so real sometimes. If things keep up the way they're going I may have to sell a bus or something.
My next mower is gonna be something still in production! Sucks that everride were bought by ariens. They're great mowers but parts are quickly drying up.
I need to just suck it up, sell my buses and go get a couple Scags this winter when they're on sale.

[BlackJohn]

I was googling last night and found Jack's Small Engines DIY. He has the clutch for you. Not sure where he is located though.

I can't see any other way but to check the ignition switch as per the schematic you showed me. Just check for continuity through all positions of the key from the off position which should be your 12v feed wire.

John

[somewhereinusa]

You can make a couple of wires to test the clutch. Run them to battery and see if it works. All of those parts are testable. Throwing new parts at something is a poor and expensive way to troubleshoot. Thats how many dealers do it.

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by somewhereinusa

You can make a couple of wires to test the clutch. Run them to battery and see if it works. All of those parts are testable. Throwing new parts at something is a poor and expensive way to troubleshoot. Thats how many dealers do it.

10-4. A switch and a couple relays after testing the resistance of the clutchand it checking out but getting intermittent power to it isn't what I'd call "throwing parts at it". I'm just doing the best I can- I hate messing with anything electrical.
At this point its either the 3 position key switch or some gremlin I can't track down.
I'd have messed with it more today, but I've had such a bad headache I've not left the bed or couch much.

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by EastCoastCB

10-4. A switch and a couple relays after testing the resistance of the clutchand it checking out but getting intermittent power to it isn't what I'd call "throwing parts at it". I'm just doing the best I can- I hate messing with anything electrical.
At this point its either the 3 position key switch or some gremlin I can't track down.
I'd have messed with it more today, but I've had such a bad headache I've not left the bed or couch much.

I went over to the mower shop and talked to them. I told them I'd drop off the mower but they said it would be a week or two and that they don't have the key switch- which they're saying they're sure is what the problem is. They were the local Everride dealer and they said that's the common failure.
I still have to get out there and check the switch with the multimeter and then I'll know if I need to order one. I'm also gona get extra belts and filters if I make the order.

[EastCoastCB]

No updates due to rain and mowing for my buddy's lawn service.
Mower guy swears its the key switch.
I went ahead and ordered one, as I sorta have to throw parts at it anyhow. $25 is nothing compared to $80 an hour shop time plus parts. I needed to have an extra deck belt and pto drive belt on hand anyhow, so I went ahead and got the switch, belts, air filter, oil filter, and hydraulic filter.
I also have a guy Freddie who is really good with mowers. I'd forgotten about good old Freddy, so maybe if its still down next week I'll haul it over to his shop and hang out with him a bit and see what we can do.
I was/am really frustrated with this, but I'm a small-time guy just starting out with only one mower. THis was inevitable. Success doesn't just happen, there are tons of failures along the way. I'm trying to learn from these failures instead of let them defeat my goals!

[EastCoastCB]

My newest problem this week is a recurring one. I'm literally allergic to work boots.
I can buy shoes, sandals, any kind of footwear and I'm fine.
Bought some high dollar hiking boots to make my mowing life easier and one day in them has my legs breaking out with hives or rashes or something. This happened last year when I tried a pair of Georgia Boots. A google search showed me I'm not alone, not in the least. Could be the tanning chemicals, could be the "waterproofing", but man this sucks.
Guess I'll just keep wearing running shoes till I can figure this out.

[EastCoastCB]

Continuity tested all the poles on the key switch. Its not the key switch.
Gonna look over all the wires again for any signs of anything.
Learning how to use a multimeter, though!

[BlackJohn]

Try that test again with someone holding the switch and activating it while you test. Turn it off and on a few times slowly and watch the ohmeter needle move as you go through all positions.
If that looks good try it with the power back on again and the same procedure.
Weight your seat down so that switch is made and test for 12v on the clutch itself, to a good machine ground or battery ground.

John

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by BlackJohn

Try that test again with someone holding the switch and activating it while you test. Turn it off and on a few times slowly and watch the ohmeter needle move as you go through all positions.
If that looks good try it with the power back on again and the same procedure.
Weight your seat down so that switch is made and test for 12v on the clutch itself, to a good machine ground or battery ground.

John

I clamped the leads and was able to test the switch by myself. Its 100% good. Just a standard 5 pole mower switch. The mower shop dude won't be getting any more of my time or money.
Taking it tomorrow to a guy who works on golf carts, tractors, and mowers. He's a really handy dude I met when working in the greenhouses.
I spent three hours out in that heat today messing with this mower.
BJ- you always are helpful when dealing with electrical nightmares- I owe you beers, my friend!
THe only part it can be at this point is the clutch. It was still occasionally coming on the last time I checked it's resistance. Now that its not coming on EVER I'll retest that clutch. The heat got to me and I came in, rolled my own, and took a nap the rest of the afternoon. I been running myself hard this summer.
Thanks again, all of you, for the ideas and help! What a bunch of great folks we have on here, I tell ya what!

[BlackJohn]

You are learning my friend, good to see you getting confidence in troubleshooting. The meter will tell all, if you know what to tell it to check.
I'll take you up on the beers someday bro, but you'll have to come up here.
Somebody in your country thinks I'm to undesireable to cross the border.

Good luck tomorrow, it'll all work out in the end, however tough and upsetting some days get chasing gremlins.

John

[somewhereinusa]

Is there some reason you can't/won't simply hot wire the clutch and take it out for a test drive? Very simple way to definitively test whether it's good or bad.

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by BlackJohn

You are learning my friend, good to see you getting confidence in troubleshooting. The meter will tell all, if you know what to tell it to check.
I'll take you up on the beers someday bro, but you'll have to come up here.
Somebody in your country thinks I'm to undesireable to cross the border.

Good luck tomorrow, it'll all work out in the end, however tough and upsetting some days get chasing gremlins.

John

YOu really can't come to the US because of Trump?
I didn't realize Canada was on the list. I thought it was Libya, Syria, Iran, etc.
I don't get into politics, so IDK. But that sure sucks if they're barring ordinary Canadians from entry!
I know a musician who was denied entry to an arab country because he had an Israeli stamp on his passport.

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by somewhereinusa

Is there some reason you can't/won't simply hot wire the clutch and take it out for a test drive? Very simple way to definitively test whether it's good or bad.

Clutch works great. If/when it gets power I can sit in the seat, turn the key to run, pull up the pto switch and hear a very pronounced click of the magnet in the clutch engaging. It used to be intermittent, but now the pto doesn't "click" anymore.
Will retest the clutch tomorrow when its not raining.
I've had a few lengthy conversations with electrician buddies, mower repairmen, and fellow landscape workers and everyone who's messed with the mower or tried anything is stumped.
Sorta like my wipers on the short bus, only a mower pto this time!

[EastCoastCB]

Fixed the mower! Lordy, what a long time that took.
It was one pesky wire. when the relay was inserted it pushed the connector out the bottom and it was impossible to find without a multimeter and lots of contorting to finally find it. Totally an easy fix, but a tough lesson learned. Feeling rather victorious. How about some music? lol

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mNU3aIJs88g

gotta love a WIN on a sunday afternoon. We actually spent all day on the mower and treating some rusty spots on the van's frame with Rust Reformer. We finally figured out the mower around 6pm, so naturally we mowed our whole yard, did all the edging and blowing, then sprayed for weeds and stuff. Yards looking like a golf course!
Now to brace myself for a hell week of playing catch-up. Mowing two feet of bahia grass is no fun even with a wicked sweet mower like this Everride.
Time to roll my own, and enjoy a cold redbull!

[EastCoastCB]

So- I bought a backpack sprayer a month ago. A Stihl SG20.


Its been a disappointing purchase. The thing leaks if you lean it at all. The wand is cheap beyond words. And the piston/pump part must be warped, as its gotten real sticky in the middle of its stroke.
Tried returning it, no dice. Tried getting them to fix it under warranty. They want $35 just to look at it under warranty.
Stihl have become a stupid, lame company and I won't be duped into buying that name again. My hedge trimmers I bought a few months back suck, too.
Stihl's quality isn't anything special like it used to be and I'll be sticking with Husqvarna, Echo, and Redmax from now on.

[cadillackid]

stihl and troy-bilt used to be good struff.. my troy-bilt 4 cycle trimmer. (modular) is the biggest POS!! a friend of mine has a stihl thats maybe 7 years old and its had to have the carb in it rebuilt 4 times.. and he uses fresh top quality gas in it.. new plug every year, clean or new filter etc.. and it still a B*** to start.. and then theres the tap N go on it that jams every other time...

Grrr!! see I thought huskie went down hill in the 90s when electrolux bought them.. previous to that if you needed high quality gear you just always bought a husq,, it would cost you but youd likely never have to buy another one unless you ran over it with your truck..
-Christopher

[EastCoastCB]

All my Husqvarna stuff new and old works as well as one could hope for.
I've got a ten year old residential grade string trimmer I run HARD and its still running like the day I bought it. Starts right up and its never missed a beat.

[cadillackid]

Originally Posted by EastCoastCB

All my Husqvarna stuff new and old works as well as one could hope for.
I've got a ten year old residential grade string trimmer I run HARD and its still running like the day I bought it. Starts right up and its never missed a beat.

I had an old straight shaft Ryobi. that ran like a CHAMP.. 2 cycle but it would BLAST.. was pretty big.. I went all fancy and got that 4 cycle modular troy-bilt so I could ditch my blower, edger, and hedge trimmer in favor of this all-in-one.. gave that ryobi away and the guy still uses it in his business.. same as you a residential grade cheapier trimmer and it just runs!! I half wonder if the fact i only use this stuff once every week or so is part of the issue.. whereas using it every day keeps always fresh fuel / oil going through.. and the string always moving so it doesnt rust and stick etc
-Christopher

[EastCoastCB]

Stihl have refused to accept my review of their backpack sprayer. They keep highlighting arbitrary parts and telling me its not acceptable. If you look up the sprayer on their own site's reviews you can see why. LOTS of low scores and lots of edited reviews with the same generic response posted.
Here's what they sent me last.

Your opinion is very important to us and the STIHL community. We appreciate you taking the time to write a review on SG 20. Unfortunately your review did not meet our guidelines for posting on our site.


The highlighted section(s): mentions customer service issues


I bought this to spray the sidewalks and driveways on my route. We have an older SG20 that's still working ok after at least 5 years. But this brand new one has what seems to be a warped piston pump that makes pumping it a real chore. Wand seems pretty cheap and only comes with one tip that isn't ideal. The pumping action on this new unit is so bad we tried to return it to the Ace Hardware in Mt Dora where we purchased it. They said they don't take returns on these and that they'll look at it, but I have to give them $35 first before they'll even take it in for a look. If they deem it to not be defective they keep the $35. If they deem it defective the $35 is returned, I presume. The employees don't seem like they cared about my needing this sprayer for work, and I bet they'll just hand me back my sprayer and keep my $35. Who charges $35 deposits to simply show the dealer the defective tool??? Stihl dealers, that's who. I won't be buying any more Stihl products, as the local dealers are not helpful in any way.