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05-16-2018, 07:52 PM
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#1
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 64
Year: 1995
Engine: 12 valve 8.3L Cummins
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Roof Hatch Opening Fill Options
I yanked out the emergency roof hatches during the demo phase. I put some plexi panels up temporarily to fill the hole and provide some light. I intended to put the air conditioner or fan into these holes.
I just ordered 2 Maxxfan fans and am about to order a Dometic ceiling unit but they both look like there only about 14" square. The roof hatch is closer to a 24" square.
I could of sworn I read that people used these larger holes for AV units. Am I making this up?!? Any input would be appreciated.
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05-16-2018, 08:05 PM
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#2
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Owasso, OK
Posts: 2,627
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf-T-Liner MVP ER
Engine: Cummins 6CTA8.3 Mechanical MD3060
Rated Cap: 46 Coach Seats, 40 foot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brightond
I yanked out the emergency roof hatches during the demo phase. I put some plexi panels up temporarily to fill the hole and provide some light. I intended to put the air conditioner or fan into these holes.
I just ordered 2 Maxxfan fans and am about to order a Dometic ceiling unit but they both look like there only about 14" square. The roof hatch is closer to a 24" square.
I could of sworn I read that people used these larger holes for AV units. Am I making this up?!? Any input would be appreciated.
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Bus emergency hatches are around 24" sq to allow people to get out.
Industry standard cut-outs for fans and AC are 14" sq.
Use some sheet steel to seal the large holes, and cut a 14" sq hole in the middle.
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05-24-2018, 02:33 PM
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#3
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Athens, TN
Posts: 1,574
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International RE
Engine: International T444e
Rated Cap: 76
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I'm welding in custom hatches with clear plexiglass hatch doors.
I ran into the same issue more or less- the popular fans all have relatively small entrances, and probably for good reason. Smaller intrusion = less problems with differences in roof curvature.
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05-24-2018, 02:40 PM
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#4
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Damascus, OR
Posts: 681
Year: 2004
Chassis: International
Engine: T444e w/ 2000 Allison Trans
Rated Cap: 35
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what gauge steel are you putting in? 16 gauge cold rolled?
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05-24-2018, 03:04 PM
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#5
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,762
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brightond
I yanked out the emergency roof hatches during the demo phase. I put some plexi panels up temporarily to fill the hole and provide some light. I intended to put the air conditioner or fan into these holes.
I just ordered 2 Maxxfan fans and am about to order a Dometic ceiling unit but they both look like there only about 14" square. The roof hatch is closer to a 24" square.
I could of sworn I read that people used these larger holes for AV units. Am I making this up?!? Any input would be appreciated.
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Get some 18ga steel and cut it to size. cover the emergency hatch hole and cut a 14" hole in the new panel.
I mounted a roof vent in my cargo van and LOVE it. Fantastic and Maxxair both make excellent vents.
I put a 30x30 over the opening on my last shorty-
While you're up there get rid of the factory passive vent and strobe to avoid future or current leaks.
While youre up there run a nice new bead of 3m seam sealer on all the seams and once you've got the hatches deleted you can mount those fans and rooftop ac in any 14" hole. I'd stick some square tubing between the ribs that the ac will sit on, so that way its not just supported by the sheet steel.
Cold rolled steel is overkill. Hot rolled will do the job just as well and costs a lot less.
just my 2 cents.
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05-24-2018, 03:11 PM
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#6
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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How about this idea. I see some have removed the escape hatches and replaced with Lexan Skylight to fill the hole. How about Lexan to fill the big hole and then mounting the fan vent in the middle of that. This would give you some ambient light into the bus.
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05-24-2018, 03:41 PM
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#7
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Damascus, OR
Posts: 681
Year: 2004
Chassis: International
Engine: T444e w/ 2000 Allison Trans
Rated Cap: 35
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ECCB,
What is that passive vent for? Guess I'll delete it when i delete the hatches...
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05-24-2018, 03:46 PM
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#8
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,762
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rovobay
ECCB,
What is that passive vent for? Guess I'll delete it when i delete the hatches...
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Seems to be worthless to me. Just another leak source, imo. I'm all about sealing up the roof solidly!
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05-24-2018, 03:59 PM
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#9
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Athens, TN
Posts: 1,574
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International RE
Engine: International T444e
Rated Cap: 76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB
Seems to be worthless to me. Just another leak source, imo. I'm all about sealing up the roof solidly!
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I'm on the same page, but I want roof access through the hatch, and I'm deleting all the windows, so...
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05-24-2018, 04:01 PM
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#10
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Billings, MT
Posts: 1,269
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: HDX
Engine: Cat C7
Rated Cap: 84 passenger
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I like my whale's blow hole. And I want to keep my strobe to allow the aliens easier landing.
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05-24-2018, 05:04 PM
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#11
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,762
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kazetsukai
I'm on the same page, but I want roof access through the hatch, and I'm deleting all the windows, so...
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So add one of these, it'll actually seal.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Bomar-Nibo-...-/173136887425
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05-24-2018, 05:07 PM
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#12
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Billings, MT
Posts: 1,269
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: HDX
Engine: Cat C7
Rated Cap: 84 passenger
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That's only 20.5" square.
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05-24-2018, 05:09 PM
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#13
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,762
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptSquid
That's only 20.5" square.
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They make them in various sizes. I've seen a 26" too.
I can fit through a 20" opening. Especially if its an emergency or occasional access.
But yeah you can get lots of different "rv roof exit hatches" in various sizes. All are better than the plastic toy stuck on by the factory. Mine have all been "Trans-Spec" and they're chintzy at best.
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05-24-2018, 05:11 PM
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#14
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Billings, MT
Posts: 1,269
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: HDX
Engine: Cat C7
Rated Cap: 84 passenger
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I don't think I have to worry about crawling out of my roof e-hatches any time soon. Brunhilde is stationary.
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05-24-2018, 05:59 PM
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#15
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Owasso, OK
Posts: 2,627
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf-T-Liner MVP ER
Engine: Cummins 6CTA8.3 Mechanical MD3060
Rated Cap: 46 Coach Seats, 40 foot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptSquid
I like my whale's blow hole. And I want to keep my strobe to allow the aliens easier landing.
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I'm keeping the strobe too, but it will be re-sealed. It doesn't leak at the moment.
Neither does my passive vent, and I'm on the fence about that. The way it is fitted it doesn't seem like it could leak even if it wanted to.
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05-24-2018, 06:17 PM
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#16
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,762
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twigg
I'm keeping the strobe too, but it will be re-sealed. It doesn't leak at the moment.
Neither does my passive vent, and I'm on the fence about that. The way it is fitted it doesn't seem like it could leak even if it wanted to.
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Its not good for insulating. It leaks air. IMO its definitely not something I'd build around. Easy to delete and forget about it.
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05-24-2018, 06:24 PM
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#17
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Owasso, OK
Posts: 2,627
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf-T-Liner MVP ER
Engine: Cummins 6CTA8.3 Mechanical MD3060
Rated Cap: 46 Coach Seats, 40 foot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB
Its not good for insulating. It leaks air. IMO its definitely not something I'd build around. Easy to delete and forget about it.
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That is also true.
I'll look again when I'm prepping the roof, which should be soon now.
Planning on Henrys Dura-Brite for the roof.
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05-24-2018, 07:21 PM
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#18
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Marion NY
Posts: 103
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: HDX
Engine: 3126 7.2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twigg
I'm keeping the strobe too, but it will be re-sealed. It doesn't leak at the moment.
Neither does my passive vent, and I'm on the fence about that. The way it is fitted it doesn't seem like it could leak even if it wanted to.
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my buses blow hole is leaking but not important till i seal it up prior to conversion
__________________
"Fitting a bus for your lifestyle is certainly easier than fitting your lifestyle into your bus" The journey begins... I am expecting a rough road ahead!!
Jim, Marion NY
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08-04-2018, 01:59 PM
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#19
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Asheville NC
Posts: 65
Year: 95
Chassis: TC2000
Engine: Bluebird
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I'm a bit late on this post (BUT IT'S AWESOME), can you tell me about the straps you're using to hold the patch down before it's screwed down?
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08-04-2018, 02:02 PM
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#20
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elliot_peas
I'm a bit late on this post (BUT IT'S AWESOME), can you tell me about the straps you're using to hold the patch down before it's screwed down?
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1" ratchet stars would work. Hook in a window on each side and crank it down.
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