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08-22-2018, 02:42 PM
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#21
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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I'm planning on covering the 24" hole with tinted Lexan and then mounting a 14" Fantastic Fan in the center. This will allow more tinted ambient light in.
Just metal to metal will not cause galvanic corrosion, it needs and electrolyte as a third factor to start the process. Do a search and read for yourself. I would have no problem attaching aluminum patch to steel sheet if they are both painted or sealed first. It's more common on boats due to the salt water electrolyte.
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08-22-2018, 09:04 PM
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#22
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 61
Year: 2001
Chassis: Thomas MVP
Engine: CAT 3126
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I built my own, but I'm new to all this so not sure if its gonna hold up over time.
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08-22-2018, 09:08 PM
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#23
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Vermont
Posts: 20
Year: 2006
Coachwork: MID BUS INC Chevy
Chassis: YY
Engine: 3500 Dieisel Express v8
Rated Cap: 26
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Agreed about the box stores. Trying to get this done while working full time, so getting a little antcy
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08-23-2018, 06:46 AM
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#24
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Essex, MD
Posts: 3,738
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, MT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc
Just metal to metal will not cause galvanic corrosion, it needs and electrolyte as a third factor to start the process. Do a search and read for yourself. I would have no problem attaching aluminum patch to steel sheet if they are both painted or sealed first. It's more common on boats due to the salt water electrolyte.
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Fixed.
YOu make a sammich of steel and aluminum without or with scratches and see what you get in a yr with just rain water, dust, bus dirt, etc. The water that gets trapped between the layers isn't going to stay lab grade neutral for long. Is it going to rust thru the Fe or the Al even at 18 gauge in a yr? Not very likely but who builds a bus to last only 5 yrs or 10 yrs?
Sheet steel is easy enough to get. Why bother unless you have free Al on hand?
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08-23-2018, 10:11 AM
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#25
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brewerbob
Fixed.
YOu make a sammich of steel and aluminum without or with scratches and see what you get in a yr with just rain water, dust, bus dirt, etc. The water that gets trapped between the layers isn't going to stay lab grade neutral for long. Is it going to rust thru the Fe or the Al even at 18 gauge in a yr? Not very likely but who builds a bus to last only 5 yrs or 10 yrs?
Sheet steel is easy enough to get. Why bother unless you have free Al on hand?
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That is what I meant, there's a proper solution to every issue.
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08-23-2018, 10:25 AM
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#26
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Essex, MD
Posts: 3,738
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, MT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc
That is what I meant, there's a proper solution to every issue.
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There certainly is a proper solution to every issue. For every proper solution there are dozens of improper ones too. Skoolie folks don't always do what's best when what's easiest is staring them in the face.
Drill a few holes and rivet together, use a few self tapping screws, etc. when using the pre-treated metal and it is no longer pre-treated where the fasteners went thru. Slap a couple of pieces of sheet metal up there and just glue/bond it on and you could have water getting in there and/or trapped humidity between the layers.
Just saying sheet steel will cost less and then you don't have to worry about dissimilar metals. You'll still have the same worries with fasteners and rust between layers tho.
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08-23-2018, 01:09 PM
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#27
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Vermont
Posts: 20
Year: 2006
Coachwork: MID BUS INC Chevy
Chassis: YY
Engine: 3500 Dieisel Express v8
Rated Cap: 26
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Roof
Thanks for all the suggestions.
Decided on using what I have which is some clear poly honeycomb sheeting. Light in fan on.
It is easy to be distracted while doing as much as possible before winter.
Back up cam installed! Check.
Form in spots needing it and rust removal! Check. Sanding roof and getting ready to paint after fan installation.
Peace.
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08-25-2018, 08:51 PM
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#28
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Skoolie
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 216
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf-T-Liner MVP ER
Engine: CAT 3126
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Aluminum and steel are galvanically compatible, depending on the types.
Alternate link.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 01ThomasMVP
I built my own, but I'm new to all this so not sure if its gonna hold up over time. Attachment 25212
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Interesting! Has it weathered any storms? Did you enlarge the opening?
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08-25-2018, 09:05 PM
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#29
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 61
Year: 2001
Chassis: Thomas MVP
Engine: CAT 3126
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Its showing a few signs of weather, and we have had some bad weather these past couple months. No leaks tho. all I did was square out the rounded edges. It's still the same size as the original emergency exit.
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08-27-2018, 06:53 AM
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#30
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Essex, MD
Posts: 3,738
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, MT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marceps
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According to your link, you want to keep it under .15V. The only place I see that on your chart is AL 2000 series (whatever that is) and plain carbon/low alloy steel. I don't know if mild steel (sheet metal) is plain or low alloy or not.
Everything else looks like it's .15V or higher.
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08-27-2018, 09:23 AM
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#31
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Asheville, NC
Posts: 52
Year: 2001
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: International
Engine: Dt 466e
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I have been looking into getting a couple replacements from SafeFleet. I have been calling around to local dealers for more info but I'd like to replace mine with these.
They are for transit buses but I'm pretty confident I can fit them to my bus. I like the idea of still being able to pop em up for ventilation. It is made of 4mm tempered glass with gray tint featuring an 18% light transmission.
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08-27-2018, 09:52 AM
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#32
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Essex, MD
Posts: 3,738
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, MT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by naes14
It is made of 4mm tempered glass with gray tint featuring an 18% light transmission.
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Sounds classy (and pricey).
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08-27-2018, 11:50 AM
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#33
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Damascus, OR
Posts: 681
Year: 2004
Chassis: International
Engine: T444e w/ 2000 Allison Trans
Rated Cap: 35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by naes14
I have been looking into getting a couple replacements from SafeFleet. I have been calling around to local dealers for more info but I'd like to replace mine with these.
They are for transit buses but I'm pretty confident I can fit them to my bus. I like the idea of still being able to pop em up for ventilation. It is made of 4mm tempered glass with gray tint featuring an 18% light transmission.
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got my stock ones out of my bus just sitting on the side of my house if you are interested.
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08-27-2018, 01:43 PM
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#34
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rovobay
got my stock ones out of my bus just sitting on the side of my house if you are interested.
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Me too. But they do leak!
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