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09-30-2015, 12:06 PM
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#1
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 53
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Champion
Chassis: Ford E-350
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Running wires: under or over?
So I'm in the process of ripping the aluminum sheet metal that lines the inside walls of my bus and underneath it all is spray foam that Champion had applied during manufacture. There's spray foam in the walls, in the ceiling and even underneath the bus. I haven't drafted a floor plan yet but since insulation is the first step I figure I'll need to figure out how I'm going to wire things first. So here's the question: Do I scrape off the spray foam and run them through/behind the fresh insulation or do I put the insulation down first then run them on top? I've seen people lay down insulation, then wire, then spray foam before. I'd like not to mess this up so tell me what you did with your wiring, what kind of insulation you put in and why you did it that way. I'll be at that step in this process in no time.
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09-30-2015, 12:36 PM
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#2
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: MNT CITY TN
Posts: 5,158
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So many variables,
I used conduit as a wire chase and left a pull wire in it, this has helped during the couple wire add on's and modifications over the years
I have seen spray foamed over wiring, spray foam channels cut out and wire run and the foamed over
not much help, just some more ideas to ponder, worst part is you could never pull more wire etc, due to foam encapsulation
look at pdbreskes build for one way
__________________
Our build La Tortuga
Accept the challenges so that you can feel the exhilaration of victory.
George S. Patton
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09-30-2015, 12:40 PM
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#3
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Stony Plain Alberta Canada
Posts: 2,937
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: 190hp 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
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Run 2x4 strapping horizontal on the entire inside of the bus.
This gives you a proper thermal break, a place to screw everything on the inside to, and a nice clear path front to rear for all wires and pipes.
Without strapping, every fastener you use from the inside into the metal will condense, form water, and cause rust / mold.
No interior fastener should ever go from the inside into the bus metal. That would make it a thermal bridge.
Nat
__________________
"Don't argue with stupid people. They will just drag you down to their level, and beat you up with experience."
Patently waiting for the apocalypses to level the playing field in this physiological game of life commonly known as Civilization
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09-30-2015, 12:49 PM
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#4
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 53
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Champion
Chassis: Ford E-350
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I'm sorry I'm having trouble picturing all of this. Do y'all have any pictures as an example?
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09-30-2015, 01:13 PM
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#5
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: MNT CITY TN
Posts: 5,158
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m00py
I'm sorry I'm having trouble picturing all of this. Do y'all have any pictures as an example?
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the-camel-conversion-project-
it 50 pages, not sure where wiring is though look at page 21 for an example and then you will have to cruise 10-30 maybe
__________________
Our build La Tortuga
Accept the challenges so that you can feel the exhilaration of victory.
George S. Patton
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09-30-2015, 01:36 PM
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#6
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 404
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Bluebird Mini-Bird 24'
Chassis: Chevy P30
Engine: Chevy 6.2L Diesel
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Personally, I would do wiring by running a conduit, and leaving a pull-wire. You can enclose it in the walls/ceiling/flooring that way, and as long as you're not doing MAJOR renovations, you can always replace, adjust, or make small additions/modifications that way.
As a techie, I know that what I think is the coolest, most epic thing to build in today will be outdated in 6-12 months, old-skool at 2 years, and what-in-the-hell-was-i-thinking by 5; and I know that as a human, I am going to screw something up, so I should leave room for the ability to fix it easily, or change it out completely if that's what is needed.
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09-30-2015, 05:28 PM
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#7
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Farmington Hills, Mi (Detroit area)
Posts: 1,968
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Eldorado Aerotech 24'
Chassis: Ford E-450 Cutaway Bus
Engine: 7.3L Powerstroke
Rated Cap: 19
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I ran my 12v DC wiring along with the original interior bus wiring without any special protection. My 120v AC wiring is in flexible metallic conduit separated from the 12v wires so there's no problem with induced voltage in the DC wires.
Here's some of the original 12V DC wiring which is mostly run inside black plastic wiring conduit. I ran my wiring in or around those conduits.
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09-30-2015, 08:31 PM
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#8
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Stony Plain Alberta Canada
Posts: 2,937
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: 190hp 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m00py
I'm sorry I'm having trouble picturing all of this. Do y'all have any pictures as an example?
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Jatzy used strapping.
http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f27/ar...rust-8870.html
I used strapping.
http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/th...ime-10138.html
And there are others.
Nat
__________________
"Don't argue with stupid people. They will just drag you down to their level, and beat you up with experience."
Patently waiting for the apocalypses to level the playing field in this physiological game of life commonly known as Civilization
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10-01-2015, 02:31 PM
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#9
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 53
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Champion
Chassis: Ford E-350
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nat_ster
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Nat what do you do? I'm only on page 8 and I am blown away by the level of skill and knowledge you have about this stuff.
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10-01-2015, 04:48 PM
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#10
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Stony Plain Alberta Canada
Posts: 2,937
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: 190hp 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m00py
Nat what do you do? I'm only on page 8 and I am blown away by the level of skill and knowledge you have about this stuff.
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I'm a farm raised country boy / small contractor that does everything from metal fab to residential construction.
Today I'm working on hooking up a half million BTU coal fired hot water boiler for the 12 bay bus shop.
I started a thread last year called $hit I do for money. I have a pile of pics to upload when it starts getting dark to early to work out side.
This year I did some landscaping, roofing, auto / heavy equipment repair, this boiler removal / install, demolition, and a pile more.
Just before my divorce I realized the 80 / 20 rule. 80% of the work on most job sites gets done by 20% of the man power. 80% of the money gets made by the boss.
I was one of the 20% working my a$$ off, getting no where in life, and making pricks rich. So I cut out the middle man, and became my own boss. Now I do most the work myself, and only hire a man or two sometimes when I just can't do the work alone.
The best part is now I have time for my loved ones. Unlike when I punched a time clock, I have the freedom to take the time to look after my wife and kids. Now they come first unlike before when work came first.
I love the diversity of doing alot of different things. I have a hunger to learn new things. I don't smoke or drink, I just read and tinker on my many projects.
I spend many hours on this site trying to help people that don't have as much experience yet as I do. Many have helped me, I try to pass the favor onto others.
Nat
__________________
"Don't argue with stupid people. They will just drag you down to their level, and beat you up with experience."
Patently waiting for the apocalypses to level the playing field in this physiological game of life commonly known as Civilization
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12-07-2020, 08:03 PM
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#11
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Asheville, NC
Posts: 28
Year: 2009
Coachwork: Collins 6-window
Chassis: Chevy 3500
Engine: 6.0L
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I, reading this so many years later wondering how the **** I’ll be wiring an AC outlet on one side of my bus when the inverter is on the other (through the ceiling, of course, but it scares the crap out of me to plug in a Vitamix that’ll be powered from so very far away) (hence why I’m here), thank you, Nat.
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12-08-2020, 03:21 AM
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#12
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Long Beach, CA
Posts: 1,075
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC2000, 40' MPV
Engine: 5.9 Cummins/B300 trans
Rated Cap: U/K
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Voltage drop
Quote:
Originally Posted by veglorde
I, reading this so many years later wondering how the **** I’ll be wiring an AC outlet on one side of my bus when the inverter is on the other (through the ceiling, of course, but it scares the crap out of me to plug in a Vitamix that’ll be powered from so very far away) (hence why I’m here), thank you, Nat.
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Run #12 wire to all your outlets it's good for 20a (16 continuous) and voltage drop over the length of a bus will be insignificant. Use good outlets. I only use 20a outlets at work. Voltage drop is a complex equation involving length, guage, voltage, load an ambient temperature. There are tables and apps but I wouldn't be too concerned in a bus.
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12-08-2020, 10:40 AM
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#13
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: So Cal
Posts: 3,227
Year: 1935
Coachwork: Superior
Chassis: Chevy
Engine: 317 ci/tid / Isuzu
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I'd be more concerned with the size battery bank it will take to run that AC than anything else.
Jack
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12-09-2020, 07:52 PM
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#14
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,558
Coachwork: Integrated Coach Corp.
Chassis: RE-300 42ft
Engine: 466ci
Rated Cap: 90
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Lots of rvs use romex, cheap wood, also leak, burn, etc. (Minimum Standard). For your safety, its worth a couple extra bucks for the mc 12/2 Roach mentioned and a maybe little bit of conduit (Albatros). You can feel safe running it exposed high across the interior of lower cabinets, closets. Plus thin walls require more physical protection.
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12-09-2020, 08:09 PM
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#15
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Whidbey Island, WA.
Posts: 1,109
Year: 1984
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: All American
Engine: 3208 na boat anchor
Rated Cap: 2
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The space between the floor and seat rail worked well for me as a place to run wire out of the way. Used regular water proof NM cable.
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12-09-2020, 10:20 PM
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#16
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Brazoria County, Texas
Posts: 819
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 32 Passenger
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Just be careful with MC cable (we used to call it BX). I’ve seen that stuff get kinked, cut the insulation on the wire, and then after it’s all covered up it shorts out and then you have to trace it out to correct it. If you do use it, make sure you the little red anti-short bushings that come with it.
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