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Old 04-26-2018, 11:20 PM   #1
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Colorado
Posts: 156
Year: 1995
Coachwork: Amtrans
Chassis: Genesis
Engine: DT466
Rated Cap: 20 (9 window handicap)
Safety while working on the roof

I was just curious if i could get some input on ways to safely work on the roof.

I was up on the roof today to remove the reflective tape around the emergency hatches, and I went up through the hatch. Just the first step of wanting to clean up, scuff the paint, seam seal, then paint.

I am not a fan of heights to begin with, and with a factory tall roof, I think I am probably high enough that any slip and fall from that height is going to involve a hospital visit and probably a broken bone.

I'd prefer to not make that trip to the hospital, but not sure how to get a more stable up on the roof. I suppose I could buy a safety harness, but not sure where to tie off to. About the only other thing I could think of was maybe 2 scaffolding and have a plank between them so I could try to stay level just above the work area?

Looking for ideas of what anyone else had done to try to increase safety
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Old 04-26-2018, 11:59 PM   #2
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Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Tahoe
Posts: 513
Year: 1997
Coachwork: International
Chassis: 3000RE
Engine: T444E w/ MT643
Rated Cap: 84 pass, 40'
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tigerman67 View Post
I was just curious if i could get some input on ways to safely work on the roof.

I was up on the roof today to remove the reflective tape around the emergency hatches, and I went up through the hatch. Just the first step of wanting to clean up, scuff the paint, seam seal, then paint.

I am not a fan of heights to begin with, and with a factory tall roof, I think I am probably high enough that any slip and fall from that height is going to involve a hospital visit and probably a broken bone.

I'd prefer to not make that trip to the hospital, but not sure how to get a more stable up on the roof. I suppose I could buy a safety harness, but not sure where to tie off to. About the only other thing I could think of was maybe 2 scaffolding and have a plank between them so I could try to stay level just above the work area?

Looking for ideas of what anyone else had done to try to increase safety
When I shoveled the roof I stayed in the center section. I got a ladder recently and I suppose you could tie off on one side of the bus to work on the other side. My son once rode on the roof or the side of a school bus in a parade and he was tied off but I'm not sure how they did it. I'll ask him when he gets home from college.
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Old 05-01-2018, 03:52 PM   #3
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Colorado
Posts: 156
Year: 1995
Coachwork: Amtrans
Chassis: Genesis
Engine: DT466
Rated Cap: 20 (9 window handicap)
Just thought I'd mention that I was actually fairly successful with using my articulating ladder, and having it 3 up and 1 across. The 1 across puts a little weight in towards the bus and I can usually get the ladder to make two points of contact, one on the side and one on the top in that configuration. That seems to make it more stable than a regular extension ladder.

When I was visualizing this, my step ladder seemed to be about 1 rung too short to get very far up the roof sides, and I thought that an extension ladder wouldn't have put me too far away from the roof once it started to slope away, but it seems to work fine.

From being on top of the roof, I can reach roughly the center half of the roof without feeling like i am risking falling off, and the 1/4 on each side is easy enough to reach from an articulating or extension ladder.

I did have to tape a towel onto the ladder, or it would scratch the bus quite easily (Not a big deal now, but the goal is to paint it).
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Old 06-08-2018, 12:10 AM   #4
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Tahoe
Posts: 513
Year: 1997
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Engine: T444E w/ MT643
Rated Cap: 84 pass, 40'
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tigerman67 View Post
Just thought I'd mention that I was actually fairly successful with using my articulating ladder, and having it 3 up and 1 across. The 1 across puts a little weight in towards the bus and I can usually get the ladder to make two points of contact, one on the side and one on the top in that configuration. That seems to make it more stable than a regular extension ladder.

When I was visualizing this, my step ladder seemed to be about 1 rung too short to get very far up the roof sides, and I thought that an extension ladder wouldn't have put me too far away from the roof once it started to slope away, but it seems to work fine.

From being on top of the roof, I can reach roughly the center half of the roof without feeling like i am risking falling off, and the 1/4 on each side is easy enough to reach from an articulating or extension ladder.

I did have to tape a towel onto the ladder, or it would scratch the bus quite easily (Not a big deal now, but the goal is to paint it).
I finally got my son to tell me how they did it. They attached the rope thru the emergency hatch to a seat. If you have removed all your seats you would need to use a carribiner thru a hole in a rib and attach to that and then to your climbing harness. You can work in the area near one hatch and then you need to change hatches or the rope won't be the right length.
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Old 06-08-2018, 12:50 AM   #5
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My plan was to use the round suction cups glass movers use, harbor freight has them cheap and they are strong
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Old 06-08-2018, 07:18 PM   #6
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Year: 1991
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Chassis: T/C 2000 28 foot Handy Bus
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Originally Posted by Whatthefak View Post
My plan was to use the round suction cups glass movers use, harbor freight has them cheap and they are strong
To use as a life safety device???
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Old 06-08-2018, 07:46 PM   #7
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To use as a life safety device???
Not really just as a hand hold while I'm working, just a handle on an otherwise smooth roof
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Old 06-08-2018, 08:28 PM   #8
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Location: Ashtabula, Ohio
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Year: 1996
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Chassis: International
Engine: T444E 7.3L
I admit it. I am so scared of heights and ladders in general. I have yet to go on my roof and paid someone to help me with the fan, solar panel, and skylight install.
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Old 06-08-2018, 08:42 PM   #9
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Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 701
Year: 1990
Coachwork: integral
Chassis: Crown Supercoach II (rear engine)
Engine: Detroit 6V92TAC, DDEC 2, Jake brake, Allison HT740
Rated Cap: 37,400 lbs GVWR
After I completely repainted the roof but before I installed the eight solar panels I made a walkway between the two roof hatches. Not only is it somewhere to hinge the panels from, but most importantly it is now perfectly safe for me to be up there. I can easily and safely wash the panels by standing up there and plugging my washdown brush into the two quick-connect water outlets there, and all the water flows away from me (Ever tried washing panels from below? Yuch.). I get up there using my 6' stepladder inside, through the front roof hatch. Easy.

If you plan on being up on the roof anything more than very rarely, a walkway there is well worth it. Mine is made from 6061 and treadplate aluminum with all stainless hardware, so there's nothing to ever paint or need any attention, and its bolted to the roof ribs every 19" by a total of 36 3/8" bolts. Heck, you could lift the whole bus by the roof walkway!

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Old 06-08-2018, 09:12 PM   #10
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Location: Huntington beach
Posts: 448
Year: 1991
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Chassis: T/C 2000 28 foot Handy Bus
Engine: Cummins 5.9 Mechanical
Rated Cap: 2
"Heck, you could lift the whole bus by the roof walkway!"


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