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Old 01-30-2018, 01:23 PM   #1
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Screws and Rivits

While looking at pics and watching school bus conversion videos I see people removing rivits from walls and ceiling. All the interior in my bus is screwed together and seems as though it came that way. Do some come with screws instead of rivits?
Doesnít make a difference to me just curious.
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Old 01-30-2018, 01:33 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by RRRVBUS View Post
While looking at pics and watching school bus conversion videos I see people removing rivits from walls and ceiling. All the interior in my bus is screwed together and seems as though it came that way. Do some come with screws instead of rivits?
Doesnít make a difference to me just curious.
Thomas buses used a lot of screws. I think when it gets down to removing/replacing 500 screws or 500 rivets, you'll wish to God they were screws.
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Old 01-30-2018, 01:50 PM   #3
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As he said. My Thomas was all screws on the inside. Screws are easier than rivets to be sure, that doesn't mean they are easy! Even with a good impact drill you're going to fatigue pretty fast working overhead.

My BlueBIrd is all rivets. I'll be starting that part this weekend....
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Old 01-30-2018, 01:50 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by o1marc View Post
Thomas buses used a lot of screws. I think when it gets down to removing/replacing 500 screws or 500 rivets, you'll wish to God they were screws.
Screws are easier to remove

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Old 01-30-2018, 02:00 PM   #5
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My 92 Ward had rivets. My 98 and 04 AmTran/IC's came with screws.
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Old 01-30-2018, 03:18 PM   #6
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I canít wait to start on the gutting process. It needed a PMD and the injector return lines were leaking so Iíve been concentrating on the mechanical part o things.
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Old 01-30-2018, 03:20 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Jdawgsfanasty View Post
Screws are easier to remove

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Definitely. Should be a breeze, Iíve been told more than once that Iíve got a few screws loose already
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Old 01-30-2018, 03:50 PM   #8
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All screws in my Thomas.

I bought a Porter Cable Impact Driver .... and a lot of Philips #2 impact bits.

There is a knack. Start the driver very slowly. Let it hammer the screw loose without the bit slipping, then hit the trigger harder.

In the entire interior removal I have had maybe 15 screws, out of many, many hundreds, that refused to budge. Of those maybe 12 succumbed to an angle-grinder slot and large screwdriver, and about three needed drilling or chiseling out.

Rivets would have taken a lot longer.
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Old 01-30-2018, 03:57 PM   #9
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If your screws are the same as in my Thomas, #2 was the wrong bit. #3 is the correct bit for mine and will pull them all out with no damage to screws or the driver bit.
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Old 01-30-2018, 04:34 PM   #10
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If your screws are the same as in my Thomas, #2 was the wrong bit. #3 is the correct bit for mine and will pull them all out with no damage to screws or the driver bit.
Most of mine are #2, #3 won't even go in.

In a few places they used larger screws, they are #3.

#3 will always slip much less, it has more meat to get hold of.
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