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Old 11-12-2017, 10:20 AM   #1
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Spray foam the bottom.

Any body ever use spray foam to under coat and insulate their bus? My water tanks are gonna freeze.

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Old 11-12-2017, 01:04 PM   #2
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I wanted to spray foam underneath to save room inside but decided not to because of several excuses like mainly money and prep for bin attachments tank attachments and the foam would still need a cover to protect it from road debris and water.
I actually insulated all of my tanks with 2" polyiso foam board with an foil film to make them fit snug in between the frame rail and body mainly cause it was all salvage from a ductwork job and used heat tape wiring across the bottom of the tanks inside the insulation. For just in case I ever had to worry about them freezing.
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Old 11-12-2017, 01:13 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by Jolly Roger bus 223 View Post
I wanted to spray foam underneath to save room inside but decided not to because of several excuses like mainly money and prep for bin attachments tank attachments and the foam would still need a cover to protect it from road debris and water.
I actually insulated all of my tanks with 2" polyiso foam board with an foil film to make them fit snug in between the frame rail and body mainly cause it was all salvage from a ductwork job and used heat tape wiring across the bottom of the tanks inside the insulation. For just in case I ever had to worry about them freezing.
Good luck
Thanks. My tanks are odd shaped. And I'm thinking about it insulating the bus from the bottom. The floor gets cold. The heat tape......hmmmm

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Old 11-12-2017, 01:55 PM   #4
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The heat tape can be bought in specific length already wired,ready to go and is self regulating or can be bought in rolls with the connections to make your own but as far as I know 120v is minimum so would require at least that.
I don't plan on living or visiting places when it's that cold but I had another idea for if I was going to long term in an area like that and this is more long term to a permanent spot and have worked around ductwork for awhile.
Build an air plenum/3-sided duct using your bus floor as the fourth side,maybe a register for the engine bay, one into the house at the drivers area(tranny dog house for me) one in the stair well and maybe even some to the outside sitting area and use a kerosene fired torpedoe heater sitting outside.
Will heat the floors to keep the cold off your feet, put some heat into the living space and provide warmth when wanting to set outside?
Properly sizing the heater and ducting would be the key along with CHOOSING THE CORRECT SAFETY DETECTORS THAT WORK WITH THE FUEL FIRED HEATER OR APPLIANCE THAT YOU CHOOSE.
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Old 11-12-2017, 01:59 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jolly Roger bus 223 View Post
The heat tape can be bought in specific length already wired,ready to go and is self regulating or can be bought in rolls with the connections to make your own but as far as I know 120v is minimum so would require at least that.
I don't plan on living or visiting places when it's that cold but I had another idea for if I was going to long term in an area like that and this is more long term to a permanent spot and have worked around ductwork for awhile.
Build an air plenum/3-sided duct using your bus floor as the fourth side,maybe a register for the engine bay, one into the house at the drivers area(tranny dog house for me) one in the stair well and maybe even some to the outside sitting area and use a kerosene fired torpedoe heater sitting outside.
Will heat the floors to keep the cold off your feet, put some heat into the living space and provide warmth when wanting to set outside?
Properly sizing the heater and ducting would be the key along with CHOOSING THE CORRECT SAFETY DETECTORS THAT WORK WITH THE FUEL FIRED HEATER OR APPLIANCE THAT YOU CHOOSE.
I was thinking about running my pex lines all indoors. Along the wall and cover with something. Cut pvc?

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Old 11-12-2017, 02:02 PM   #6
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I was thinking about running my pex lines all indoors. Along the wall and cover with something. Cut pvc?

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In the conversions I have seen, the freshwater tanks and all the associated plumbing runs inside the bus. Only the drains are outside. Any city water connection would be outside too.
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Old 11-12-2017, 03:46 PM   #7
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I like to use old water hose at any rub points.
I am not a big fan of pec or any plastic water line but that is because of my commercial construction long term experience?
I ran hard copper and old water hose around the pipe at every support,split ring,anchor point?
Have never really used PEX except helping repair issues in houses for friends so I have an opinion about it.
If they do make guide support options for it then I would use those because all piping regardless of material used expands and contracts with the temperatures of the water that the pipe/tubing is carrying.
The hot water is the most important because it will expand and contract at least 3-4" minimum in a solid welded steel pipe situation and more in plastic piping?
Look at the specific brand of PEX piping you want to install for expansion and contraction, specific support info.
There is likely none but might be some?
Some company's sell blue for cold red for hot and say that the piping itself will handle the expansion and contraction? But with what supports?either support guides to allow expansion and contraction or an expansion loop to compensate?
Sorry.
This is not a big concern for a water heater at 130 degrees minimum by ICC to keep diseases out of the tank? BUT as the piping cools down it still contracts/moves. regardless of its temperature?
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