Stabilizer jacks

[miltruckman]

I did some searching on the site and cant find much on adding stabilizer jacks.

I'm thinking of using weld on trailer jacks. Welding a plate to each one and bolting them to the frame. There is a good spot just behind my rear axle i can do this(98 TC2000) it will be tight, but should work. And i can run the crank shaft out through the side of the body for access. I havent figured out how to put any on the front yet. Still looking at this.

Has anyone done this? Any good photos of how it was done?

Thanks,

Bill

[EastCoastCB]

I'm starting to look into this too.
I wish I'd had my torch and more tools with me when I got to strip a 90's fleetwood for free. It had HUGE hydraulic leveling jacks under it, but I had no way to get them.

[nat_ster]

Read peoples build threads.

It's all there.

I can think of three build threads just off the top of my head that all used something different.

Nat

[austin1989us]

Who's threads talked about it? Now I'm interested.

[nat_ster]

Please go read build threads in the full size bus conversion thread till you find them.

You will be glad you did. Each thread is a great read.

Nat

[austin1989us]

I've read through several. Don't remember seeing much about stabilizer jacks.

[EastCoastCB]

[nat_ster]

Originally Posted by austin1989us

I've read through several. Don't remember seeing much about stabilizer jacks.

K

I'm using four 15,000 pound side crank trailer jacks. Each one will be solid mounted just behind the tire on all four tires.

Each jack has a extension to drop to the ground for min cranking. The extension also makes sure the jack is not hanging to low.

I can lift the entire bus tires and all off the ground 2 feet.

That was $600 worth of jacks and 300 pounds.

Others have used the scissor jacks from RV's. Some have a nut on them so you can spin them with a drill. Don't use a impact, the impacting will destroy the gears inside.

I don't have the threads bookmarked. I just read every build thread here.

Nat

[miltruckman]

Which 15,000 lb jack are you using? I found a 12,000 lb bulldog jack but it doesnt lift 2 ft. Just 12-1/2". And it is 28-1/2" tall retracted. More travel and less height would be better.

Yours sounds better. A brand and model would be great. Thanks

[austin1989us]

Originally Posted by nat_ster

K

I'm using four 15,000 pound side crank trailer jacks. Each one will be solid mounted just behind the tire on all four tires.

Each jack has a extension to drop to the ground for min cranking. The extension also makes sure the jack is not hanging to low.

I can lift the entire bus tires and all off the ground 2 feet.

That was $600 worth of jacks and 300 pounds.

Others have used the scissor jacks from RV's. Some have a nut on them so you can spin them with a drill. Don't use a impact, the impacting will destroy the gears inside.

I don't have the threads bookmarked. I just read every build thread here.

Nat

Your idea sounds like what I need. I'd looked at some of the RV scissor jacks and it seems that they're either not long enough or don't hold enough weight. 15,000 might be a little hefty for me. I could probably get by for 10,000.

I've read several of the threads, but it's pretty hard to search just for a single page from a build thread. Some of the build threads are dozens of pages. I really enjoyed reading all of porkchopsandwiches thread (cover-to-cover). I don't remember him talking about jacks though. I've skimmed jatzy's thread and your thread. Dond's thread is pretty good too.

Are you planning on welding or bolting the jacks to the frame? I was thinking maybe some large u-bolts could be used to bolt it to the frame. That'd avoid drilling or welding to the frame.

[EastCoastCB]

Do not weld to the frame.

[austin1989us]

yeah, I thought that'd be a bad idea. I don't like the idea of drilling holes in it either.

[miltruckman]

You can drill holes in the sides of the frame. I wouldn't go over 1/2" diameter. And be conservative as to location and number of holes. Drilling holes in the top or bottom of the frame is prohibited unless its at the very front or rear for something like a hitch.

Bill
Michigan

[jazty]

Depending on where you want to put the jacks you may find that there are usable holes already drilled into the frame. My International has groups of holes all up and down the frame, presumable to mount tanks, storage, etc... I was able to use a bunch of them to add my second fuel tank. I did drill 3x 3/4" additional holes to get the tank placement exactly as I wanted it and am absolutely not worried about affecting the structural integrity. These frames are thick enough to take it.

[gbstewart]

check my thread out I put 2 7500lb scissor jacks at the rear of the bus, I bolted them on the frame, only used 5/16 bolts, it works well, I wanted to use small bolts in case I drove away with the jacks down, less damage this way.As you get older or in a hurry it can happen. Anyway I use them ever time I camp for a few nites, don't use them if a 1 nite stop over in rest area, walmart etc.
will worth putting them on.
gbstewart

[Scooternj]

Last summer I picked up scissor jacks, rated 7500lbs each. I still have yet to mount them, but they're here. 2 pair for fore and aft leveling.

[miltruckman]

Here is what i came up with for the rear. Ill be extending the crank shaft out through the side of the bus. I mounted two of the bulldog 12500lb jacks just behind the rear axle on both sides. Im still trying to figure out whT to do in te front as there is less room to mount a jack.

Bill
Michigan

[miltruckman]

That first photo shows the jack just in front of the mud flap and behind the tire. Here is a photo with the tires off.

Bill
Michigan

[nat_ster]

Originally Posted by miltruckman

That first photo shows the jack just in front of the mud flap and behind the tire. Here is a photo with the tires off.

Bill
Michigan

Good job man. Great to see some decent hardware on a bus.

That's the same jacks I'm using.

Mine are the same physical size, just more gear reduction giving the 15,000 pound rating.

Mine also have a foot of telescopic drop that sets with a 3/4 pin to prevent having to crank as far.

I will be mounting mine flush with the sides of my bus for a wider stance. They will be connected to the belly bin frame work. this same framework will hold my water tanks ect.

Mine will also be mounted behind the tires on all four sides.

I will be welding a nut to the crank stub so I can use my big cordless drill to move it up and down like I do on my bobcat trailer.

Nat

[miltruckman]

Nat, you are going to have to put some serious steel under your bus to mount those out by the body sides.

I just spent the day reworking the steel roll cage around the fuel tank. I straightened the arms to tuck them closer to the tank ends. This will alow me to install the right front stabilizer jack in front of the tank just behind the front axle on the right and gives me just enough room behind the tank to fit the generator between the tank and the rear axle.

I still have to engineer the generator mount frame. Has to hold 650lbs, and i plan for it to slide out like a drawer.

And that left front jack is going to be a royal pain. As it has to go behind the battery box. I'll have to drill all the rivets in the bus sides that hold the box on, and pull a bunch of bolts to get that box off. Then rework the back of the box to make a notch large enough for the jack. Then i'll be making jack shaft extensions to get the crank shaft out through the sides of the bus. I think i'll install a mounted bearing where it goes through the side to hold the shaft up. A nut is a good idea.

I wonder if there is enough travel in those jacks to change a tire. Depends on how much the suspension moves. Mine are deop leg too. But then only have about 12-1/2" of lifting travel after the leg is down.

Bill
Mi