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Old 07-20-2019, 09:15 PM   #11
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[QUOTE=cadillackid
Christopher[/QUOTE]

There is nothing more that needs to be said
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Old 07-20-2019, 09:44 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rivetboy View Post
My 91 blue bird shorty had two trans airs one worked one did not . Left the one that worked in place but have not reconnected the electrical yet to see if it still works after the engine rebuild.The other system that did not work I have removed completely from the bus including the compressor and the evaporator and the condensor. Now I plan to replace the compressor and plan to build this system in a work bench configuration to test and learn and upgrade everything to make it work efficientally. Have a great schematic and plan to upgrade the fans also on the condensor. Planning to use a Harbor Freight 2HP motor to spin the compressor and if that is not enough have a 20 hp Vangaurd V 4 Then, when it blows way cold will swap it out for the one currently in the bus. The plan is to mount the evaporator all the way forward and high in the cab.

All of "you people" that say that this cannot be done ,
Please take a seat over there and the next available service representative will be with you shortly.

That's awesome, Rivet. I might have some questions for you.


One of the questions I was going to ask the shop that evac'd our systems is if they could bench-test each component as a stand-alone item, so we wouldn't waste $$ & time putting everything back together just to pull it apart again.
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Old 07-24-2019, 09:10 AM   #13
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IMO this thread, or at least Christopher's first post, would be a great sticky in the heating & air subsection.
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Old 07-24-2019, 09:27 AM   #14
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Seconded!
The motion passes.
Who's got the Gorilla Glue..?
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Old 07-24-2019, 10:26 AM   #15
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most times the biggest issues with these are Leaks and people cheaply trying to "band aid " leaks by charging can after can of Dye and stop leak into a system..



A/C systems work on the principal of making the "freon" changing from a gas to a liquid and back again.. the Dye, air,oil , moisture, stop leak. are all considered non-condensables. and wont change back and forth.. that stuff in the pipes means less capacity to cool..



but individuals and even maint techs at schools pump ounce after ounce or can after can of that stuff in there.. a single can of 134A with Dye in it will combine with the oil and you never need another one in it unless you flush the system.. a single can of 134a with stop leak is all you need.. if that doesnt fix it then the leak is bigger and needs repaired properly. by locating it and making a repair..



case and point was my TransAir system in the red bus worjed when I got it.. on a 90 degree day I had 56-59 degree air from the vents.. seems nice N cool.. the unit is in the back of that short bus. so I was a little warm up front but was like "thats normal".. when I checked the pressures.. my high side gauge needle jiggled back and forth.. which is a sign that there was liquid in the pipes.. I shouldnt have liquid at the discharge of the compressor.. only gas.. so I evacuated, flushed, cleaned, replaced a couple weak motors.. ran a micron level vacuum, pump.. fixed a very minor leak, and recharged.. last week the heat wave was 100 outside and dewpoint 78.. heat index 112.. I was pushing 40 degrees at the vents.. even in the driver seat I was plenty cool.. and a couple people riding with me said "dude its freezing in here"...



rivet - on the one in your bus that works you could likely clean the coils, blower wheels, and replace any motors that needbe.. then evacuate and Flush the whole thing .. and replace with the nice re-furb evaporator on your bench to the front and recharge with the rated weight and amount of oil .. it will likely be ice cold without removing the lines and condensor..



bench testing is a great way to learn about these systems... just remember orientation of the components is important for oil return and circulation.. you can run for short times.. ie bench testing for an hour or so.. but i wouldnt "burn-in" a system overnight unless the condensor and evaporator and comopressor are set up in the orientation they would be in the bus
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Old 07-24-2019, 10:52 AM   #16
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Hey Christopher,

You mentioned stop-leak. Are the current products available OK to use?

The last time I tried a/c stop-leak it did not fix the leak so I took it to the local shop. They scolded me severely for using the stuff and told me that it caused them additional work which they felt compelled to Bill me for.

Thanks
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Old 07-24-2019, 12:51 PM   #17
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stop leak is always a "stop-gap". but a small amount is OK in my book..just never try it more than once or put in more than one can of 134a which also contains stop-leak..



I never use those jkits that say "134a with cooling booster, oil, and stop leak..".. those are the ones that charge in all kinds of non condensables...



some of that stuff is designed so it "thickens" when it hits air.. so its a nice very thin liquid in the system mixed with oil and state-changing refrigerant.. when it Leaks out it thickens and plugs the hole... in very small concentrations it wont hurt anything as its mixed in... but lets say your system already has air in the lines because someone didnt evacuate it correctly.. or it breaks and is torn apart leaving things exposed.. a small amount of that stuff mixed in likely wont make a huge deal.. butthose that charge can after can of that stuff in increase its concentration. and next thing you know.. a system gets opened to replace a bad part.. and the unsuspecting repair tech puts it together, evacuates, and recharges with normal 134a and finds the TxV gunked up or clogged,,, wierd flow... high head - low suction.. and he gets pissed like your tech above that says "never use stop leak!"..
-Christopher
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Old 07-24-2019, 12:53 PM   #18
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oh and P.S. Ive been that tech which has found many ounces of this stuff in a system that nuked a brand new compressor in less than a month..
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Old 07-25-2019, 12:46 AM   #19
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Always a pleasure reading your posts, Christopher!
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Old 07-25-2019, 02:05 AM   #20
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Great post!

I have a appointment scheduled to have my 2 systems checked out. I suspect the front unit has a leak. Its output is not cooling as well as it did when it was first fixed. I am going to ask them to replace ALL the old freon lines, test the rear evap and condensor for leaks, 2 new compressors and maybe that will keep the interior cool(er) than sweating buckets before the AC was fixed.

I have a suggestion. Get your windshield tinted/covered with "Heat Blocking" film. That alone has made such a huge difference. It was pricey $500+ but nearly stopped the greenhouse effect in the drivers area. Its nearly clear so it will not effect night driving PLUS the reduction of UV exposure means less of a chance of getting skin cancer. Any little bit helps.
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