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Old 09-10-2017, 04:14 PM   #1
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Trying to fill the void

Need some advice. The way we framed up my charter (2x4 stud) there's a 9 1/2" void from the original bus wall to the face of the stud. Want to put in batt insulation (r32) but worried about the insulation sloughing down with movement and with lack of backing. Any ideas of how to make it work?

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Old 09-10-2017, 04:41 PM   #2
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Can you put some pictures up of what your dealing with.
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Old 09-10-2017, 04:44 PM   #3
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I sure can but won't be today. Stepped away from the project for the weekend

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Old 09-10-2017, 09:44 PM   #4
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A picture would be great, but without seeing it I would suggest running 2 x 4 cross bracing horizontally. You can then attach your insulation without it slipping down.
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Old 09-10-2017, 10:05 PM   #5
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I actually had an idea similar to that but ran across 2 issues. The first being a drill or air hammer would not fit in the space behind the studs if I tried to attach a 2x4 backing plate. (Would have a 4" gap to try to maneuver in) and secondly if I somehow did accomplish putting plates in there would still be a 4" void between back of stud backing plate and the interior wall of the bus. The reason we studded away from the wall instead of tight to it is because the original heating system from the bus runs there and instead of remove it we figured we'd kick the studs out instead. In hindsight, dumbest idea ever, but hey that's how hindsight works

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Old 09-14-2017, 03:09 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Summ1 View Post
A picture would be great, but without seeing it I would suggest running 2 x 4 cross bracing horizontally. You can then attach your insulation without it slipping down.
Here's a pic of what I was talking about.

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Old 09-14-2017, 03:58 PM   #7
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Here's a pic of what I was talking about.
that is a ton of space to loose. Could the wall go above the lines? Susbended by a pice of angle on the floor?

like this
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Old 09-14-2017, 04:16 PM   #8
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I saw your post earlier and then got distracted but this sounded like a real challenge. I think it depends on the insulation type you use.
My thinking was to use batts and fill the void up. Then take an old air mattress or something like that and put it in between the batts, inflate and that should stop any sagging.You might want to leave a small area to get at the valve to check pressure or reinflate.
There is more than one way to skin a cat but this seemed easier than any others I thought of.

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Old 09-14-2017, 04:18 PM   #9
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that is a ton of space to loose. Could the wall go above the lines? Susbended by a pice of angle on the floor?

like this
What rusty said, you are giving up a lot of square feet in the width which is way more important...

If your wanting to leave the wall I would try to avoid batt insulation It tends to hold moisture and get funky/promote rust. You could probably attach it directly to your walls the same way it is installed in a home with staples and then put your wall covering over that I doubt it would go anywhere.
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Old 09-14-2017, 04:23 PM   #10
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I got to thinking last night, what if I used 4" styrofoam block against the bus wall, secured with screws and pl and then laid in my 2x6 r20 insulation in front?

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