Updates on Comfort Bus - Page 5

cowlitzcoach · 05-07-2019, 06:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cadillackid

super thanks!! I see what they did... mine has 2 belts around the engine, fan, and alternator.. and another belt around the engine, fan, and air brakes compressor.. and then I used the outer groove on my fan for my single AC.. looks like I could pretty much bolt one compressor to the other and pull that redundant belt.. use my 2nd fan groove for the other A/C..

My 1990 E-350 mini-buses had a dual compressor A/C system. The one compressor worked on the Ford through the dash A/C system and the second compressor worked the rear A/C unit (it has been so long ago I can't remember what brand system it was).

The compressor that ran the rear A/C was the first compressor and the through the dash was the second compressor. The first compressor was run off of the engine and the second one was run off of the first compressor. It was set up so that either one or both compressors could be working or not at the same time.

The first compressor looked like a typical Ford A/C compressor mount and adjuster and the second one was hung out past the first one and was tensioned against the first one. IIRC it used a jack screw not unlike the one in one of the photos above.

IIRC, with a vacuum pump and two A/C compressors I think there were seven belts.

OrionsComfortBus · 05-08-2019, 08:03 AM

Thinking of going with a serpentine belt on a dt466 upgrade engine. Perhaps this winter. We will see what happens.

cadillackid · 05-08-2019, 08:13 AM

Just turn the 360 up, 466 swap isn’t just a drop in, but you can crank a 360 pretty good. First turn the screws and drive it, if not enough then P pump it

OrionsComfortBus · 05-08-2019, 08:21 AM

I don't have to mess with the injection timing?

cadillackid · 05-08-2019, 09:25 AM

depending on what the original rating is. your timing may be set pretty good.. the california versions had fairly retarded timing. but the 49 state versions were already stock in that 17-20 degree range which is the accepted value from what I read on most of the DT related forums. for all but the guys cranking them way up.

the california versions were at 13. which is a bit low...

turning out the fuel screw is a good way to bump it easily. and see if thats good enough.. beyond that P-pumping is the way to go.. MW pumps were somewhat beefier than the A-pumps that are stock but when you get to that point may as well P-pump.

im not sure what you are going for as a target.. the MT-643 made a pretty big difference in how mine cruises.. it still a bit sluggish on freeway ramps and hills but not near like it was. and I havent turned up the screws on mine yet.. thats something im going to do real soon here..

you can check your timing pretty easily on these.. there is a plug in the side of the injection pump you unscrew (at the front where the gears are)... then you rotate the engine until the marks on the gear and the engine line up.. always rotate the engine in normal direction of rotation..

then there is a timing. pointer that points to the harmonic balancer.. the balancer is marked with lines and numbers.. those will be your injection timing.. where the pointer points on the balancer..

there are obviously other things you can do to turn these engines up in. regards to bigger injectors, turbos, etc...

at some point you still reach the limits of the allison... I wouldnt pump any more than 300 HP through a 643...

if you want to start making REAL power then its time to go get a transmission built (and $$) to handle it...

-Christopher

-Christopher

OrionsComfortBus · 05-08-2019, 01:22 PM

The emissions control info sticker says I have a 190 bhp engine, 82 fuel rate and 16 degrees initial timing btdc. As far as I know, it has not been adjusted. If I could get near 250bhp, that would be enough . . Especially with the 643 trans.

OrionsComfortBus · 06-21-2019, 04:28 AM

Thank You to all of You who have replied and given advice/opinions on my bus. I appreciate it all.

After getting the front A/C functioning and dealing with loose compressor mount bolts, the belt got glazed from all the slipping. I bought 2 new ones to replace it. Finally got enough time and had decent enough weather to install them. I'm planning on getting the rear A/C system going soon, Perhaps after the Trans swap. Life happens so I haven't done it yet, looking to buy the trans at the end of this month.

I would like to get a quote of bulk insulating headliner material but I need to get a measurement of the ceiling length and width. I can easily measure length. Its the width that is being difficult. If anybody has a way of measuring this or perhaps its standard on all buses?

HazMatt · 06-21-2019, 05:03 AM

I can't find the notes from when I was figuring my luaun needs to cover the ceiling; but I ran out a tape measure, started at one side, and measured the curve by pressing the tape in place until I got to the opposite side.
It was 8' & several inches wide, best as I can recall, tho not measured from the window tops, but at the lengthwise piece supporting the wiring harness'.
Hat channels are 1 7/8" deep X 1 1/4", with most of the interstitial spaces 27 1/4".
Don't know if this answered your question, but hope it helped.

OrionsComfortBus · 06-21-2019, 01:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HazMatt

I can't find the notes from when I was figuring my luaun needs to cover the ceiling; but I ran out a tape measure, started at one side, and measured the curve by pressing the tape in place until I got to the opposite side.
It was 8' & several inches wide, best as I can recall, tho not measured from the window tops, but at the lengthwise piece supporting the wiring harness'.
Hat channels are 1 7/8" deep X 1 1/4", with most of the interstitial spaces 27 1/4".
Don't know if this answered your question, but hope it helped.

YES!! It has helped. Thank You for responding. I can easily trim a little but sewing another piece on is another thing. I will have cut outs where the evaporators are on the ceiling. I can use that to insulate the driver's footwell. The sooner I can get it insulated, the better.

HazMatt · 06-21-2019, 01:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OrionsComfortBus

YES!! It has helped. Thank You for responding. I can easily trim a little but sewing another piece on is another thing. I will have cut outs where the evaporators are on the ceiling. I can use that to insulate the driver's footwell. The sooner I can get it insulated, the better.

Glad to've helped.
Today may be the Summer Solstice for the rest of the hemispere, but I think my calendar must be running slow.
Summer settled in and put up it's feet here in TX several weeks ago...

Native · 06-22-2019, 12:47 AM

Aint that the truth!

OrionsComfortBus · 06-25-2019, 01:12 PM

Posting a photo of the 2 new belts I installed. No more slipping and squealing, not even when wet. It blows colder air but still need the rear AC for the really hot days.

Thinking of saving up for 2 new systems that use a air channel that runs the length of the bus below the rear of the condensers. Either that or get newer versions of what I already have.

OrionsComfortBus · 06-26-2019, 12:05 PM

Here I am, back at Alignment Right to get the bus brakes serviced. I have about 30 to 40 percent shoe life left on the front. The rear is a mystery as the hub needs to come off before the drum. Axle seal is leaking on the right rear so those will be replaced as well.

Updates to follow as I get them.

OrionsComfortBus · 06-26-2019, 12:39 PM

A few pictures of the rear bus brake shoes and drums. Looks like the shoes are all due for replacement. New rear hub seals as well. Front hubs are dry, no signs of leaking.

OrionsComfortBus · 06-26-2019, 10:00 PM

A quick note. When replacing hub seals, always remember to seat the hub completely before putting on the preload and lock nuts.

My trip home with new brake shoes almost ended in disaster. I was able to get the bus on the shoulder without swapping paint with another vehicle. I called the shop and they sent out a mechanic who checked the hubs. One was fine the other one had not been put on all the way so the bearings were trashed. He offered me a ride home while the shop dispatched a tow truck to bring my bus back to their shop to fix it tomorrow. I will give an update when I have more information.

OrionsComfortBus · 06-27-2019, 10:00 AM

Good Morning you fine folks! I have updated news.

I got a call from Alignment Right regarding damage done. The outer bearing was trashed. The spindle got so hot it bent. Looking at a couple options. #1 is have a axle surgeon cut off bad spindle and weld on new/good one. #2 is find replacement axle housing and swap everything over which could lead to more problems as the original one is disassembled AND the used one could also have issues. So, I'm going to leave it in the capable hands of the shop.

Time frame of all this has extended out to next week thursday / friday for completion.
Problem is, I will have a renewed MT643 from LKQ to pick up in a few days. I was planning on using the bus for that but it will likely still be in the shop.

Native · 06-28-2019, 02:43 AM

I, for one, and very glad you had a shop doing the work. They will be on the hook for a whole lot more than y'all originally bargained for. It does sound like they have a handle on it though.

OrionsComfortBus · 07-11-2019, 11:13 AM

This morning I was picked up and taken to Alignment Right to retrieve the bus. They explained they even disassembled the passenger side rear hub to make sure it had plenty of lube. The axle surgeon did a great job replacing the driver's side spindle.

First trip was to pick up the MT643 from Santex in San Antonio. I delivered it to Alignment Right to store until the end of the month. I have no forklift at my house and the transmission was blocking access to the wheelchair lift. All I have left to buy is the transmission fluid, Deliver that, the flex plate, shorter flywheel bolts and a new rear main seal AND a week later. . . I go pick up the bus again.

Picture of the transmission in the bus still in it's crate.

Native · 07-11-2019, 10:30 PM

Nice to have it back and functional. Now for the real improvement!

cadillackid · 07-12-2019, 07:03 AM

oh cool!! you are doing the 643 swap!.. I did this in my DTA360. as most here know.. and Ive been driving it and enjoying it greatly..

the ONE piece im missing that you shoul;d have checked,, is whether the new trans has a speedometer gear or a tone ring.. many of the navistar ReNewed units apparently come with speedo gears.. and 1990 and newer Busses use electronic gauge clusters and therefore need a tone ring..

the tone ring can be retrieved from an AT545.. but as im finding out it can be difficult.. ReNewed has you make a bearing puller of sorts by grinding down some bolts and yanking the tailshaft bearing.. then the tone ring is supposed to slide out..

before that new trans goes up in the bus, pull off the plug for the speedometer in the tailshaft and verify it has a tone ring .. if its got a gear, it will need swapped.

-Christopher

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