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annvp89 08-26-2017 06:59 PM

Paint Job advice?
 
Hey Guys,

I've just come back from sherwin williams and the guy I spoke to seemed to know what he was talking about (He'd painted his cars himself several time etc...)

I explained that I was on a budget and planned on using a roller and he recommended using water pressure cleaner, sand it, use a primer and then what got me a bit confused is that what he said was best was a paint they made that was Industrial Water based Enamel (In terms of economical and easiness of application and decent finish).

Everyone seems to use Oil Based so I was wondering what was the cons of using water based?

He's also giving me insanely good prices (paid 30 for a gallon of primer that apparently about 60/70 dollars a gallon and I'm getting 5 gallons of paint for 150 bucks which is pretty good no? Is the exact colour I wanted as well)

He was super honest and said that the colour would fade over the years etc...but that in term of budget and best finish that would be the best.

What do you guys think?

Brad_SwiftFur 08-26-2017 07:36 PM

Here's the thing. You get what you pay for. Sure, you'll get a reasonably decent look ... for the first couple years. The paint will begin to fade, and show its age. If you only want it to look good for a few years, fine, but if you plan to own it longer, eventually you'll regret having to remove the paint to redo it ... again.

annvp89 08-26-2017 07:53 PM

A couple of years is more than what I expected! I am saving so that I will have it painted professionally in a about a year and half when I get it back to the UK. I just need it to not be yellow. I don't mind the labour of getting it off afterwards as I have a lot of free time!

Do you have any better options? I already have the primer and I'd like to keep the paint (It's Blue Scanda SW 6529 color) under 200 dollars for 5 gallons.

Njsurf73 08-26-2017 08:43 PM

They make some very good water based coatings. They even make a DTM (direct to metal) that is water based. I prefer the alkyd based industrial enamel (because I have used it for years) but it doesn't make the water based any lesser quality. All non-automotive single part coatings are going to need a refresh in 5-7 years... I was a professional industrial painter for 20+ years.
If I could afford it I would paint my entire bus in macropoxy. Even when it's faded it will be tough as nails.

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annvp89 08-26-2017 08:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Njsurf73 (Post 221251)
They make some very good water based coatings. They even make a DTM (direct to metal) that is water based. I prefer the alkyd based industrial enamel (because I have used it for years) but it doesn't make the water based any lesser quality. All non-automotive single part coatings are going to need a refresh in 5-7 years... I was a professional industrial painter for 20+ years.
If I could afford it I would paint my entire bus in macropoxy. Even when it's faded it will be tough as nails.

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Thanks for that! I think that's what he was recommending. I'll tell him it's a go then!
PS: I was in between the blue I picked and a very similar green to yours! Yours looks really nice!

Njsurf73 08-26-2017 08:59 PM

Thanks. The wife had a big say in the color... I am just the labor!
It's getting a dark stripe at the bottom and probably the whole rear.

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EastCoastCB 08-27-2017 07:32 AM

THese nice folks seem to regret the use of that type of paint on their skoolie.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DnS35SX-Daw

To do a decent paint job requires a good amount of prep work. I'd just do it right the first time. A bus is a big thing to "temporarily paint" and that's only gonna make it more work to paint properly later on.

mmoore6856 08-27-2017 08:19 AM

yep super insulation is my plan great find cb now i feel sorry for her i thought about adding to the outside of the roof to insulate with 4 inches then covering with fiberglass but a roof raise is the plan

Rusty 08-27-2017 08:39 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by annvp89 (Post 221240)

Everyone seems to use Oil Based so I was wondering what was the cons of using water based?

He's also giving me insanely good prices (paid 30 for a gallon of primer that apparently about 60/70 dollars a gallon and I'm getting 5 gallons of paint for 150 bucks which is pretty good no? Is the exact colour I wanted as well)

He was super honest and said that the color would fade over the years etc...but that in term of budget and best finish that would be the best.

What do you guys think?


Is that the SW Dimension 1-stage? I have a can of white- it is decent product. Wasn't thrilled with the coverage- white over light grey primer. I'm not a fan of most auto paint these days...I think VOCs make for pretty paint.:tongue:

Attachment 15536

It was loose-I had the best luck shooting it straight out of the can unthinned, add hardner. Then clear.

The Sherwin Williams auto paint store by me gives me the creeps. I get a vibe that paint is secondary to their function.

Njsurf73 08-27-2017 08:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EastCoastCB (Post 221277)
THese nice folks seem to regret the use of that type of paint on their skoolie.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DnS35SX-Daw

To do a decent paint job requires a good amount of prep work. I'd just do it right the first time. A bus is a big thing to "temporarily paint" and that's only gonna make it more work to paint properly later on.

My point is, with the proper prep work, even the water borne coatings will last as long as an alkyd. Figure on 5 years to recoat.

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Rusty 08-27-2017 09:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Njsurf73 (Post 221294)
My point is, with the proper prep work, even the water borne coatings will last as long as an alkyd. Figure on 5 years to recoat.

I primed half my bus yesterday, so I am RIGHT here now.:banghead: I do NOT want to be back here anytime soon- these things are HUGE. The amount of material they suck-up is crazy.

I am doing Rust-Oleum w/ hardener sprayed over fresh coat dry primer. I am eventually going to hit it with clear-coat at least once, ideally twice with sparkles/pixie dust. Clearcoat has some uv protection.

Holy crap that is a lot of time...

Rust-Oleum also makes nautical paint with UV protection.

EastCoastCB 08-27-2017 09:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Njsurf73 (Post 221294)
My point is, with the proper prep work, even the water borne coatings will last as long as an alkyd. Figure on 5 years to recoat.

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I can get single stage acrylic WITH hardener for 60/gal.
I either use Rustoleum or that stuff.
My point is that if using latex house paint, you're only making it a lot more work to paint it properly later on.

Njsurf73 08-27-2017 10:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EastCoastCB (Post 221305)
I can get single stage acrylic WITH hardener for 60/gal.
I either use Rustoleum or that stuff.
My point is that if using latex house paint, you're only making it a lot more work to paint it properly later on.

Oh no. Never use latex house paint.
It's much different than a water borne coating. House paint isn't designed for it.
Water borne coatings are industrial grade and made to be used in an industrial setting. They are as tough as the chemical or alkyd equivalent. Prep is often a little more intense... Such as specialty primer and surface prep... But the end result will be equivalent.

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golfersmurf57 12-11-2017 05:57 AM

Just remember a good paint job has more time in prep than in paint.

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EastCoastCB 12-11-2017 06:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by golfersmurf57 (Post 238472)
Just remember a good paint job has more time in prep than in paint.

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Airn't that the truth! :thumb:


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