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jhashey 10-26-2018 06:18 PM

Newbie's Shuttle Bus Conversion
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annndddd bought a bus today. 2001 Ford e450 7.3L 175k miles.

Here's what I'm confident about: demo'ing, insulating, and framing. A family member owns a spray foam company so we'll knock that right out.

Here's what I'm semi-confident about: changing the basic fluids, doing the lay out, basic carpentry (although I don't know how people anchor the tongue and groove type pine to the ceiling....just screw it or glue it?)

Here's what I'm shakey on: Plumbing. I've done it in houses but no clue how to get running water and an external shower hook up done.

Here's what I have no idea about: has a basic inverter in it but I don't understand how the house batteries work/charge...or anything haha

Also, I've never done body work but I get the basics of rust removal. There seems to be a rust starting around where the fiberglass body meets the metal near the bottom. I'll have to really get after that.

We'll see what happens! :)

Open to any and all tips on the above!

AKA...please help :)

Johnny Mullet 10-26-2018 07:10 PM

Great bus with a great engine! Take care of stripping it out and getting all the rust taken care of first.

Plumbing can be as basic or complicated as you want it to be. I have a simple setup with a 33 gallon fresh water tank under the bed with a fill port, vent, and a line run to a 12 volt water pump. That line goes right to my sink. You can use pex just like a house. I use a 5-gallon bucket under the sink, but you can install a grey water tank under the bus and plumb it to the sink and wherever.

You can buy a propane instant hot water heater or a propane outdoor shower that can be plumbed from the tank or run from a garden hose like this one.......

Electrical can be simple or extravagant. I basically have my bus wired all in 12V so my interior lighting, porch lights, roof vent fan, water pump, stereo, TV, etc is all 12V and run from my battery bank separate from the actual bus batteries. I have a basic 200 watt solar panel kit which includes a solar charge controller and this keeps my batteries charged. I also have a switch that connects my bus batteries to my house batteries that will charge them from the alternator when the bus is running and disconnects when the bus is off.

I also have a 12v to 120V pure sine power inverter that runs my apartment sized fridge and the occasional pot of coffee. If you want all 120V stuff in the bus instead of 12V then you will need a large solar array, a huge battery bank, and a large inverter. You can also buy a smaller 12V fridge and forget 120V and the inverter all together.

I hate body work and suck at it, so no help from me there. Good luck!

jhashey 10-26-2018 08:37 PM

Awesome, thank you!

How many batteries are in your bank and how long does that last you without the bus running for normal bus activities (fridge, lights, small items)

Johnny Mullet 10-26-2018 08:54 PM

I have 2 6V golf cart batteries wired in series to make 12V and 235 amp hours. My batteries only died once and that was because the fridge was open for almost an hour on a hot summer day, but they recovered the next day from the solar panels (I did not have the isolator installed then to charge from alternator) and I never had any issues since then.

These 6V golf cart batteries a true deep cycle batteries and running them dead does not destroy them like traditional batteries.

jhashey 10-27-2018 06:01 PM

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Great first day with the kids! We put in about 3 hours of demo. Removed seats, pulled carpet, shoveled rubber flooring up and a bunch of other small items.

It poured all day which showed a few window leaks. I've read it's advised to re-seal them all.

I'm not sure how to do that so time to do some searching around!

desertfather 11-02-2018 02:51 PM

Hey man, we're neighbors! Good to see you here! I think our bus might have played a small role in your family's decision to go Skoolie rather than RV, even though I think we're building very different kinds of buses! Best of luck and I'll definitely be watching your build thread.

jhashey 11-02-2018 03:31 PM

Awesome! Now I'll feel more obligated to keep this thread updated :). I appreciate you taking the time to comment.

- All the rubber is off the floor...not easy! The previous owner had the seats out but holes were plugged with loose bolts so we sealed those off.

- Debated on taking walls and ceiling down to re-insulate. Leaning towards yes.

- Doing the floor work with the kids this weekend and perhaps re-sealing the windows. Depends on how much time we have to get into it with kids events. Always good and busy weekends!

Still not sure how / what to do with electrical (generator vs house battery bank)

jhashey 11-03-2018 07:22 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Walls coming off better than the floor. Leaving the bits around the windows until we pull them off and re-seal next weekend.

We'll spray foam most tomorrow and get the floor insulation done. There's a bar running near the bottom of this area that is rusty. We'll grind and paint tomorrow too. Coming along!

Johnny Mullet 11-04-2018 10:35 AM

Thanks for the update!

jhashey 11-04-2018 07:02 PM

I appreciate you checking in Johnny!

Floor insulated today with 1in foam board. Took 1 1/8 in pressure treated decking, cut it down to use as framing.

Height's important to us so can't give up too much head room. Spray foamed all cracks around the foam board and started grinding on internal rust spots.

Went to Harbor freight to get one of my favorite tools from them - multitool oscillating saw. I lost my previous one, but I use it for tons of edging, trimming, cutting the vinyl floor boards coming etc.

And about a dozen tape measures. My kids run off with them / I lose about one a week!

Taking the under carriage rust seriously. I will grind down to metal or as best as possible and ordered a few quarts magic bullet.

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