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onenationundergoat 11-20-2018 01:00 PM

Remodeling Electrical Design
 
Currently (been in use full time for the past four years) our electrical system consists of a heavy duty extension cord that was chopped up with three surge protectors wired into it with wire nuts. The end of the cord is either plugged into a household outlet, a generator, or an inverter. Before everyone freaks out we never plug any high powered things into it and are conscious of how many things are plugged in at once. Generally it will power a fan, some phone chargers, some lights, and a laptop.

We're wanting to make a better, safer system that we could use to power a space heater or electric teakettle on any of the outlets. I'd also like to have a separate DC system that powers just the lights and one DC plug receptacle for a 12v heated blanket that i use on the bed. This DC system will always be wired straight to the solar batteries and does not need to have any kind of 120v-12v converter because our solar batteries are always charged.

Does anyone have experience with In-Sure push in type connectors? Would they be safer to use than wire nuts? It says they can accommodate stranded 12-gauge wire, which is what I believe I would be using if I would like to make 20-amp outlets.

How different is what I am wanting from what I've got as far as planning? Electrical things are very difficult for me to wrap my mind around still, especially concerning grounding, even though I have done many many hours of research about it. Do I need a separate breaker box, or can I just use the receptacles that have built-in breakers?

BlackJohn 11-20-2018 01:55 PM

Your main power cord with surge protection need not be.
Surge protection is mostly for electronics, your flat screens, computers etc and can be done right at each receptacle fairly inexpensively.
So replace your main power cord so it has no joints at all firstly.


20 amp receptacles in your vehicle? Unheard of even if #12 wire is run to the outlets. Use 15 amp breakers only for any receptacle in your house or vehicle. No appliance will draw more power than that provides, the whole appliance industry is specifically designed for those specs.


Those InSure connectors are expensive man. Never seen one or used one but wonder if you can disconnect wires after using or do they become scrap?
Wire nuts are a proven commodity and unbeatable, but you have to know how to know how to make joints properly for them to be effective. Amateurs do not know this and that makes for loose connections, bare wires,showing,which builds heat leading to fires. Knowing which wire nut to use depends on conductor sizes and quantity but are the safest bet by far. They have to be twisted as tight as you can with linesman pliers, not just twisted on tight with fingers. Then a wrap or two of electrical tape wound tightly in the same direction as the wirenut itself is tightened. That will never loosen on its own.

I shudder at all these folks doing there own wiring knowing what onee would find if an inspection was done.

This is just another reason insurance companies refuse to insure these vehiclles, not that mfg RV's are wired any better. they are not for the money you spend for them.


My 2 cents


John

EastCoastCB 11-20-2018 02:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by onenationundergoat (Post 298824)
Currently (been in use full time for the past four years) our electrical system consists of a heavy duty extension cord that was chopped up with three surge protectors wired into it with wire nuts. The end of the cord is either plugged into a household outlet, a generator, or an inverter. Before everyone freaks out we never plug any high powered things into it and are conscious of how many things are plugged in at once. Generally it will power a fan, some phone chargers, some lights, and a laptop.

We're wanting to make a better, safer system that we could use to power a space heater or electric teakettle on any of the outlets. I'd also like to have a separate DC system that powers just the lights and one DC plug receptacle for a 12v heated blanket that i use on the bed. This DC system will always be wired straight to the solar batteries and does not need to have any kind of 120v-12v converter because our solar batteries are always charged.

Does anyone have experience with In-Sure push in type connectors? Would they be safer to use than wire nuts? It says they can accommodate stranded 12-gauge wire, which is what I believe I would be using if I would like to make 20-amp outlets.

How different is what I am wanting from what I've got as far as planning? Electrical things are very difficult for me to wrap my mind around still, especially concerning grounding, even though I have done many many hours of research about it. Do I need a separate breaker box, or can I just use the receptacles that have built-in breakers?

I know nothing much about electricity.
But I swear I was out at John's today and I thought of you and Dan! :greetings:

onenationundergoat 11-20-2018 02:27 PM

We're still rollin'! Haven't been down to Florida in a couple years though. Can't say I miss that state very much! Hope all y'all are doin great!

EastCoastCB 11-20-2018 02:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by onenationundergoat (Post 298835)
We're still rollin'! Haven't been down to Florida in a couple years though. Can't say I miss that state very much! Hope all y'all are doin great!

Its great down here!! lol

Even got medical cannabis now! :thumb:
Still working seasonally out in Cali?

Tlauden 11-30-2018 04:15 PM

Personally, I'd wire it like any standard 30A RV. Main 30A wire into a small breaker box. 2-3 circuits out of breaker box to outlets/lights/etc. I would stick with the wiring nuts, they are cheap and work well. Basic 120V wiring is pretty easy, there are many good videos online explaining how to do it properly, and sadly, just as many videos that show hack jobs. Im sure if you are uncomfortable with it, you can hire an electrician that could get you up and running in less than a day if your keeping everything simple.

T-Bolt 11-30-2018 10:32 PM

You should never have a spliced cord. All connections must be in an approved box. Like it has been said, replace the cord. I have never used In-sure brand connectors but I do use a similar product from Wago. Push in connectors hands down are better for the novice because you can't screw it up. No matter what they say do not use stranded wire with them. They can be removed from solid copper by twisting them back and forth while pulling on it.


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