Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 12-22-2014, 01:34 PM   #1
Skoolie
 
Seroflorus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Western North Carolina
Posts: 100
Year: 1993
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC2000
Engine: Cummins 5.9; MT643
Rated Cap: (was) 44; (now) 2
Hurri hot removal question

We want to remove the hurri hot heat unit and its related hoses/wiring from the back of 'the bus' . It appears there are two red cut-offs (one in engine box and another under steps behind door).

Wondering how many liquid and electronic ways we could screw this up and the few ways we could successfully accomplish the removal without:
1. killing other electricals in the bus AND/OR
2. spewing coolant everywhere like party champagne AND/OR
3. rendering the motor useless.

We can't be the first newbs to attempt/accomplish the removal of a ridiculously large but otherwise useful heater...

Seroflorus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2014, 01:38 PM   #2
Bus Geek
 
EastCoastCB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
Where ya located?
They are fairly easy to remove. unplug the wires, remove the hoses, loop the hoses together with a brass fitting.
EastCoastCB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2014, 01:42 PM   #3
Skoolie
 
Seroflorus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Western North Carolina
Posts: 100
Year: 1993
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC2000
Engine: Cummins 5.9; MT643
Rated Cap: (was) 44; (now) 2
Western North Carolina. Sounds like unplugging wiring won't interfere with other electronics (?). Do you know if those red shut offs are open when parallel to the hose (they both are currently)?
Seroflorus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2014, 01:51 PM   #4
Bus Geek
 
EastCoastCB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
I don't know.
What make and model is your bus?
No, the heaters won't affect anything electrical. But they do provide some heat when its being driven.
EastCoastCB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2014, 02:00 PM   #5
Skoolie
 
Seroflorus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Western North Carolina
Posts: 100
Year: 1993
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC2000
Engine: Cummins 5.9; MT643
Rated Cap: (was) 44; (now) 2
93 Blue Bird type D 32 foot. Cummins B 5.9L; Allison MT643

Baby stages of renovation...only up the point of taking out heater/AC/flooring....but V. excited. Love it! but have only had it a couple weeks so I should still be in love, right?!

We won't remove all the heaters, just the one that hung from a seat in the back.
Seroflorus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2014, 02:04 PM   #6
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 546
parallel=open, right angle=closed.


I left ours in and built around it. Much appreciated in the 20 degree morning temps that are coming soon.
dond is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2014, 02:13 PM   #7
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
Posts: 1,791
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: B3800 Short bus
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 36
Ball valves are usually closed when the handles are perpendicular to the pipe; open when parallel.
What kind of bus do you have? I don't know about other body types, but if it's a Thomas you are best off to plug the hose instead of looping it.

I posted a diagram on this page to help explain:
http://www.skoolie.net/forums/showpo...19&postcount=8
__________________
My build page: Armageddon - The Smell of Airborne Rust
jazty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2014, 02:27 PM   #8
Bus Geek
 
bansil's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: MNT CITY TN
Posts: 5,158
W.NC....like Asheville or Marion?
__________________
Our build La Tortuga
Accept the challenges so that you can feel the exhilaration of victory.
George S. Patton
bansil is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2014, 04:41 PM   #9
Skoolie
 
Seroflorus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Western North Carolina
Posts: 100
Year: 1993
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC2000
Engine: Cummins 5.9; MT643
Rated Cap: (was) 44; (now) 2
Asheville...near abouts (not in town).
Seroflorus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2014, 04:43 PM   #10
Skoolie
 
Seroflorus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Western North Carolina
Posts: 100
Year: 1993
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC2000
Engine: Cummins 5.9; MT643
Rated Cap: (was) 44; (now) 2
Diagram much appreciated. will crawl back under tomorrow and take another look.
Seroflorus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2014, 05:43 PM   #11
Bus Crazy
 
somewhereinusa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Andrews,Indiana
Posts: 2,430
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: AARE
Engine: 3116 Cat 250hp
Rated Cap: Just the two of us.
Jatzy,
Are you sure that diagram is correct, it's not how mine was plumbed. It also doesn't make sense. The water is going to take the path of least resistance meaning, the loop to the rear heater. What inducement would it have to go into the front heater unless, it has an extra pump there? I had an extra pump but, it was also in the loop to circulate water better the front. (engine in the rear)

This is how mine was.
somewhereinusa is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2014, 06:59 PM   #12
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by jazty View Post
Ball valves are usually closed when the handles are perpendicular to the pipe; open when parallel.
This has been my experience as well.
Kipin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2014, 11:16 PM   #13
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
Posts: 1,791
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: B3800 Short bus
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by somewhereinusa View Post
Jatzy,
Are you sure that diagram is correct, it's not how mine was plumbed. It also doesn't make sense. The water is going to take the path of least resistance meaning, the loop to the rear heater. What inducement would it have to go into the front heater unless, it has an extra pump there? I had an extra pump but, it was also in the loop to circulate water better the front. (engine in the rear)
It's definitely worth opening the main heater access and taking a look because not all buses are plumbed the same way. Mine was exactly as I described it in my first diagram (which I'll add again at the bottom of this post) with no extra pump. When both heater cores were in place and connected there was no path of least resistance. That is, both heater cores were about the same size and imparted the same level of fluid resistance. In my situation, taking the rear heater core out and creating a loop would have created a significantly easier flow path and thus would reduce the flow going through the main heater core.

Perhaps this ugly diagram will help explain what I'm saying:


In that diagram if you want all of the flow to go through the bends (heater core), you should not create a path with very low resistance. This is what I did. I would urge people to take a look at their heater before looping since it could seriously reduce the heat output of the main heater which also provides defrost.

__________________
My build page: Armageddon - The Smell of Airborne Rust
jazty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-29-2014, 03:53 PM   #14
Skoolie
 
Seroflorus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Western North Carolina
Posts: 100
Year: 1993
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC2000
Engine: Cummins 5.9; MT643
Rated Cap: (was) 44; (now) 2
DH and future master mechanic says the two tubes from the under seat heater (location of future connection not including leaky back heater set up) enter a baffled manifold that uses some air 'taking path of least resistance' to create a vacuum that pulls air through under seat heater....

make sense?
Seroflorus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-30-2014, 07:50 AM   #15
Skoolie
 
Seroflorus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Western North Carolina
Posts: 100
Year: 1993
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC2000
Engine: Cummins 5.9; MT643
Rated Cap: (was) 44; (now) 2
sorry, really meant to say coolant instead of 'air'...
Seroflorus is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:39 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.